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    • Dailey Hobbies, Whitby, Ontario I had an opportunity to visit Dailey Hobbies in Whitby. They have lots of cool stuff like at least 25-Group C models in 1/24 scale ranging from $43 to $49. They also had lots of Fujimi kits just above the $40 mark. Nice selection and prices. https://www.daileyhobbies.com/index.htm I really didn't need anything. But, this 1/24 Lamborghini was only $40. I've always wanted one without that silly wing. I swear it was calling my name.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: S24

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    • 5 days ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Spray Booth Number Three My first spray booth was the basement kitchen fan with a big cardboard box. Overspray wasn't an issue since the basement was eventually going to be renovated. I painted about 60+ cars before having to make changes. After the renovations, I moved the spray area closer to the kitchen window. But the fan was actually higher in the room than the kitchen fan, and was less effective even with a much bigger fan. It moved the smelly air out of the room. But the overspray dust was like a cloud slowly moving to the floor. Let's just agree that it was a total failure. I painted one or two HO cars, and decided to undo everything. It was either outside, or nothing now. I needed to use gravity to my advantage. So far it's been working against me. I bought a wardrobe box from U-Haul for $19.95. It measures 24"x24"x48" inches closed. 60" inches tall with the top flaps open. It barely fits in the shower stall. I installed two 6" inch vents at the back to evacuate the fumes. A plywood plate was cut to perfectly fit into the window slot. Two 6" inch metal joiners were glued into the plywood plate for the flexible hose. The shower has a plastic drop-sheet lining the entire thing. You can't be too safe. I have hanging lights on both sides so I can see properly. Blocks were glued to keep the flaps open. The evacuation vents had to be staggered because they didn't quite fit beside each other. When the booth isn't being used. The plate and flexible ductwork are at rest beside the sink. It was finished last night. Ted came over with an unpainted Pioneer Mustang today, and the booth is an absolute success. The overspray cloud falls to the bottom of the box. Nothing escapes into the washroom itself except barely a light smell. You can't smell the fumes outside the washroom door with the door wide open. Perfect. The power for the booth comes from an old 24" inch fan. It moves enough air to easily dilute the fumes. I need to watch that I don't leave it running too long after painting. It removes a lot of warmth from the house very quickly. Thank you very kindly for looking.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: How To – Paint It

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      Avatar photoKen

    • New track in the east Basic plans have been drawn up by Art to make a 2-lane new track in my basement. Art was kind enough to take on the task of fitting a small track into a tiny basement. I don't have a name for it yet. Maybe the KRZ Twister? Name suggestions are most welcome. The final dimensions will be on a 5' foot by 10' foot base. The closest rooms to the track are the washroom and kitchen. It should work out well to host races for small groups. Everything in life is time sensitive. I should have done this a few years ago. Thank you to Art for accepting the challenge.  

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Local Slot Car Groups

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    • 2 weeks ago

      Avatar photoPorsche911

    • The new Hot Rod Garage I finally tore apart the workbench and moved it out of the track room. An opportunity to clean up and re-organize. The bench as it used to be. Lots of holes were left in the walls. Oops. Me fix! The bench was moved into the basement kitchen. The drill press is now on the other side of the kitchen, and away from the slot car assembly area. A plywood back was added to the bench. Look wife... no more holes in the walls! (Except for the tire-rack on the right side) I can finally start building cars again. And finish the track room!

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: KRZ Custom Chassis

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      Avatar photoPorsche911

    • The Nova Ridge Experiment A little while back it was discussed that the Nova Ridge track lane spacing might fit 1/24 or 1/25 scale cars. The idea went to sleep for a little while. Then a friend at the Group 25 modeller's club said he had a dozen 1/25 full size bodies, chrome, and window kits for sale at $5 each. The perfect solution for a test. Art was with me that day. We both jumped at the opportunity, and bought all twelve kits (see classifieds if you want one). Test #1 - The bodies were set on the track to see if they could pass each other. A painted body was located at the recent Group 25 slot car flea market. The paint sucks, but it too was only $5. It sped up the test. A chassis was made to fit using 1/32 parts. One of the points of this test was to make it affordable (Cheap!). A Fox-10 motor was used. They retail for $8.95 US and Professor Motor has over 8,000 motors in stock. A nice affordable set of DArt wheels and tires were used to round out the test. This is the test car made with a $5 body. This is not a new class. It's simply a test to see if these cars can pass each other without creating a smash-up derby. We definitely expect these "Big Bruisers" to trade paint. This test only applies to the Nova Ridge track. These cars won't fit anywhere else. The 1/25 scale cars will likely not be a part of any 1/32 race. It may end up becoming a once-in-a-while evening here and there. Time will tell. Five Nova Ridge regulars have already bought a 1/25 body in anticipation. JMSracer has the coolest 1960 Ford Starliner already built and ready to race. The test continues. More to come. Ken

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: S24

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    • 2 weeks ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Placing an order for an aluminum chassis Thank you very kindly for considering an aluminum chassis. 1/32 or 1/25 chassis are $40 each. To order, please send me an email, or catch me at a race. These are custom made. No extra charge to map out a body. Show me what you've got for a body kit, and we will make it happen. Ken  

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: How To Order

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    • 3 weeks ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Making your own chassis Almost anyone can make an aluminum chassis at home using very simple tools. The methods and practises for machining a chassis are posted here in the workshop academy. https://scale-modeler.ca/forums/topic/monday-october-29-2018-700-930pm-basic-aluminum-chassis-design-build/ The better the tools. The better the end result. Always remember to put safety first. Eye goggles, etc...

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: General Machining Tips

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      Avatar photoKen

    • Chassis mapping The more cars you make. The easier it gets to map out a body. Don't worry too much about sticking to the car list. I can map out a body fairly quickly. Show me some bodies that aren't normally slot cars. Those tend to be more interesting. Porsche911's 1961 Ford Ranchero is pretty cool. Not many of those around. Ken

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Chassis Catalogue

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    • 3 weeks ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Mini Infinity Routed HO Track Art was kind enough to accept the challenge to create a new HO track on a 3' foot by 7' foot base. It's a very cool layout. It's made of 3/8" inch MDF. The copper tape was custom spaced for HO cars. Variable power supply 0-30 volts - 10 amps. Track-Mate driver stations so Professor Motor 1/32 controllers can be used. Braids need to be installed on every car. The Thunderjet guide pins need to be sleeved to increase the diameter. I have mostly silicone HO tires, so this is a dedicated silicone track.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Local Slot Car Groups

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    • 3 weeks ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Parts required to assemble a chassis The following is a suggested parts list for a typical aluminum chassis build. 3/32 x 3/16 Professor Motor Oilite bushing part# PMTR 1073 (or bearings part# PMTR 1176). 3/32 Professor Motor axles part# PMTR 1034 (Hardened). A variety of different size axle spacers. NSR or Professor Motor brand seem to work well. Professor Motor 2x3mm set screws part# PMTR7000 (Hardened hollow point) or Spaenaur part#481-006 in bulk. Professor Motor silicone high-flex lead wire# PMTR 1060 (yellow) PMTR 1059 (black) PMTR 1058 (red). Slot.It universal screw-in guide part# CH10, or NSR 4845 screw-in guide. Slot.It 1mm competition braid part# SP19. Slot.It 23T offset crown gears. DArt Hobbies 10T pinions. DArt Hobbies BWMS050 motors. RS Slot Racing wheels UK, or Slot.It wheels. DArt tires. DArt Hobbies wheel inserts. #227 Evergreen styrene tubing for 4-40 body posts. 4-40 brass inserts for body posts. 4-40 countersink screws (Phillips preferred) DArt Hobbies #3 Urethane body washers. 5-minute epoxy. Note: Substitutions may create fitment or performance issues. Links to suppliers for parts: http://www.darthobbies.com/ https://www.professormotor.com/ http://www.raceworldcanada.com/shipping.php https://spaenaur.com/catalog/3/#zoom=z (1,716 pages)

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Assembly Tips

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    • 3 weeks ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Recent Group 25 show Hello friendly slot car racers.  It was good to see many of you at the show. Art and I had a great day as vendors at the show yesterday. However, it's impossible to attend a show and not have clingons follow you home. Both these kits have one-piece bodies and should make excellent S24 or Mini-Z cars. First up is a '61 Ferrari 250 GT SWB. This Lamborghini Miura is another impressive kit. Thank you very kindly for looking. Ken

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: S24

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    • 1 month ago

      Avatar photof1nutz

    • In Memory of Model Murdering AKA Bill Hall A talented friend and personal HO mentor recently passed away from a massive stroke. Bill Hall was truly an Aurora HO master. He was a reputable Porsche mechanic in the 1:1 world. But he loved tinkering with slot cars. Bill did not invent "goop" (50% plastic and 50% Testors 3502 plastic cement). But he sure was an artist with it. Bill repaired old and rare cars that were long since discontinued back in the 60's. He could take a car that was stepped on, missing body posts and quarter panels. And reform every part to a factory finish. In proper colour, and without paint. I'll let the pics speak for themselves. Slate grey is one of the rarest Aurora split window Stingrays for HO size slot cars. Bill didn't get a chance to polish it before passing away. An old El Camino that got crushed. Beside broken window posts. One of the second biggest issues with old Aurora cars is many people opened up the rear fender wells with a rough blade or file to get monster tires to stick out past the body. The flea markets are littered with them. Most colours aren't worth saving. But black ones sure are. R.I.P. my dear friend Bill Hall.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Comings, Goings & Best Wishes!

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    • 3 months ago

      Avatar photof1nutz

    • S24 Dec 16/23 With Christmas around the corner. It was good to finish off the year with some relaxing laps around the track with the bigger cars. There were a few cars missing, as well as a few new ones. Up first is Felix's Monte Carlo. Sittin' low and looking sharp on a brass chassis. Chris B showed up with two new cars. A '60 Starliner, and a '67 Comet Cyclone GT. Nothing like jumping in with two feet. MIA made a new foam interior for his car. It went on a diet and lost a ton of weight. He says it accelerates much faster. The jury is still out on whether it's an improvement or not. Crazy paint and stripes on this car! Jim installed a new lightweight interior in his pink '60 Starliner. That almost completes the car. But his new '62 ultra red BelAir complete with interior sure made everyone's eyes pop! More new stuff to come next month! Merry Christmas to everyone!!!

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: S24

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    • 3 months ago

      Avatar photoPorsche911

    • 64 Impala SS The green colour of this Impala is amazing. A white vinyl roof really sets it off. Drew did a stunning job with the paint. The hood was epoxied in place. Then the extra posts for the static chassis were trimmed off.  The rad support was also removed. The chassis was assembled to set the height of the body posts. The post lengths are 31mm front, and 30mm rear. The numbers on the chassis are the tire diameters. The body will sit about 1mm higher with the stainless and urethane washers added. This is the same body height as the Olds 442. The wheel well shape makes it look very different. A thicker washer can be added to the rear body posts to create a little more rake. More to follow. Ken

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 4 months ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • DArt Watson Indy It's been a while since I started something for myself. Time to dust off the machinery. I found this cool photo of a Watson Indy in metallic orange. That was the inspiration to start this car. I just painted this today. Super nice day outside. The build begins.  

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 5 months ago

      Arthur

    • 66 Corvair Long before I joined S32 and Group 25. I built an AMT 1/25 static 1966 Corvair. I didn't paint it because I didn't know how. I eventually learned how to disassemble and paint cars. It was time to re-visit the old Corvair. It has a new chassis with a corrected wheelbase.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 5 months ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • 71 Charger RT Someone requested a lesson in paint. Today was the day. I needed something to paint in order to show what to avoid. The only body I had ready to paint was an AMT 71 Charger RT. It was one of my first model car kits as a 10-year old. Time to fulfill an old childhood dream and make this one go! This colour leans more towards a Kawasaki green. No metallic. I think it suits the car. Now I can put it aside for a few weeks while I do other things.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 5 months ago

      Arthur

    • Recent Slot Car Flea Market This is the fourth year that Michael and I made the trek out to Dungannon for the flea market. It's always a beautiful drive out to the country this time of year. We always have a lot of fun. Here are a few pics from the show. Lots of HO scale vendors there. But there's always a few 1/32 temptations. I only bought one 1/32 car. Something I've been looking for, for a long time. The yellow Boss 302 Mustang in street trim. And a few old HO cars. Thanks for looking. Ken

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Local Events & Happenings

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    • 5 months ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Bearings and axles Greetings from Bancroft gentlemen. I usually take something with me when I go to the cottage. The Watson Indy needed to be assembled. Every once in a while I run into an oversized axle that doesn’t fit the bearings. I’m glad I brought other things to do. Too bad I only brought two axles for the build. Make sure to bring a bearing with you to Ernie’s to test any axles you want to buy. Ernie doesn’t make the axles himself and will happily exchange any axle that doesn’t fit.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Class Eligible Bits & Pieces

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    • 6 months ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Recent Group 25 Show The show was a success. But it did have a few set backs. I was not feeling well and arrived very late. No early bird specials for me. Art was held back and could not make it. Everyone wishes him well, and sent greetings. Comparison to last year: Show stats. Contest - 162 entries  Last year 210 entries # through the door....436    Last year…383 I had no desire to buy anything this year. But staring across at Marty and Cindy's tables all day was a temptation in itself. A Ferrari for $15. Someone already started the chassis. Shame. Slot car maybe? I bought this for $20. Thanks Marty and Cindy! Ted and I often trade stuff. He donated this to me. A Strombecker Citroen?! It's in amazing shape except for the tires. Thanks Ted!

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Local Events & Happenings

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    • 6 months ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Baldwin Motion Vega I was recently talking to a friend about this car. It's nothing like its little sister with the 4-cyl failure with the aluminum block. If a Motion Camaro, Vega, or Corvette came up to your sports car at a red light. You quickly made a right turn to avoid being embarrassed. You can just barely detect the 454 badge on the side of the fender. A sleeper it wasn't. You could hear one coming for you half a mile away.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Historical 1:1

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    • 6 months ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • 62 Bel Air, Bubble Top The bubble tops were interesting cars. I would hate to flip one in an accident. But they sure looked cool. Here are the parts. The inspiration for this build came from these photos. This is what the test looked like before the body posts were installed. The body still needs the chrome strip going the full length of the car. I'll attempt that another day when I feel brave. A full interior made of card stock is next. Thank you kindly for looking. Ken

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 7 months ago

      Arthur

    • S24 Aug, 19/23 I was able to take a few pics before everyone left for the day. The field is growing. Chris and Drew's cars should both be ready for the next S24 event.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: S24

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    • 8 months ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • DArt Auto Union Type D This is the season to paint cars. Yesterday was another perfect paint day. So I kept the momentum going. This colour is Tamiya TS-7 racing white. It will match my type C. I can officially start a team. "Club Weisse". No clear-coat required for this lovely pastel colour.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 8 months ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Modern F1 class Thoughts have recently been exchanged at the last race about the modern F1 class. Many intersting points were made. I bought a Scalex modern F1 last Thursday night. It hit the floor twice on Saturday, and is now broken. The reason I bought it was because my other car sucks and is in need of a total rebuild. Now I have two Scalex cars in need of major repairs. I looked at Electric Dreams to see what a new Scalex car retails for. The average is $100 in US funds. There's an one ugly one in the bunch for $65 US. Many are as high as $129 to $149 just for an ordinary F1 car. Here's the car I bought last Thursday. It's available at Electric Dreams for $129 US funds.   This car below is also $129 in US funds.   While on the same site, I checked out Policar modern F1's. They start at $54.95 US for a generic coloured car.   A fully decorated car like the one below goes as high as $64.95 USD. Not all that expensive. Instead of changing everything at once and pushing everyone into totally changing cars for this class. Can we add the Policar brand to the modern F1 class? If the Policar F1 is a lot cheaper, readily available, and a slightly better platform. Everyone should have no trouble phasing out the Scalex cars on their own over time. If someone is fully dedicated to their Scalex car, and talented at tuning them. Why not keep them going too? Just some food for thought since there were a few broken F1 cars last Saturday. I'm not looking forward to fixing either of my Scalex F1's. Ken

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: R32

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    • 8 months ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • 1965 Impala Super Sport This pre-painted and fully assembled static model came from a Group25 flea market. It was a quick test to see how these large cars would run at Nova Ridge. It was quickly turned into a slot car test bed. My humble apologies. The paint is ugly. But it passed the test. With the slot car test a complete success. It was time to freshen up the body. Off with the old paint. A full interior made of paper is next. Thanks for looking. Ken

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 8 months ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • 1966 Olds 442 W30 I've never seen a slot car of a 66 Olds. It's an odd duck. Either you like them, or you don't. There's no middle ground. The box. The only parts that actually came in the box. Barely enough for a slot car. A pic of a completed kit on Google inspired the Tamiya Cobalt Green colour. A chassis was made. The car fell on its roof seconds after painting it. Thankfully a vinyl roof was in the works anyways. Problem solved. Mating the chassis to the body. The car is ready to run. It needs bumpers, window/body chrome, windows, and interior.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 8 months ago

      Avatar photoMiA

    • Stripping Old Paint Most of us know the benefit of using Super Clean to remove a bad paint job. But every once in a while you get stubborn paint that just won't budge. I bought this pre-painted body at a flea market for $5 as a quick test. Once it past the slot car test. I could not bear to look at the paint. It had a lot of bad blotches in various spots. The body looked like this after soaking for 2-weeks in Super Clean. The hood was the first test for Easy-Off oven cleaner. Overnight in Easy-Off did the trick. The only spots of paint left were from when glued covered the paint.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: How To – Paint It

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    • 9 months ago

      Avatar photof1nutz

    • 1964 Rover BRM I got very lucky in finding this kit. They simply aren't available anymore. The real cars were gas-turbine powered test-beds. Very strange car. The first step to planning out the chassis: What is the wheelbase? Using tires that are too large just for the purpose of measuring the wheelbase can reduce room for error. I happen to have a pair of old 17" inch Slot.It wheels/tires that were the wrong choice for another car. Perfect! Slide the body into the wheels/tires until the wheel-wells of the body centers the tires. (this one's easy because the wheel wells are round) Carefully slide the body away making sure not to move the wheels. I measure the left side of the axle holes on both wheels to get the wheelbase. In this case it's 73.30mm. It doesn't matter what the actual finished tire diameter is. The wheels will be perfectly centered in the wheel well. The old 17" inch wheels go back on the shelf to measure the next car.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 9 months ago

      Avatar photoGI

    • Gear ratio for a Fox-10 Art was kind enough to provide a few 38T spurs to start the ball rolling. A 13t pinion was chosen for the first test for a 2.92 ratio. The rear tires were trued to 27mm in diameter. Turns out this was perfect for the Nova Ridge track. Jim and I went head to head beside each other for many laps. We were laughing all the way. I've always wanted to tinker with 1/25, but didn't think we could. I've had about thirty 1/25 kits hanging around from before I got into slot cars.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: S24

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    • 10 months ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Paint Spree I just got back from the cottage, and painted a body or two while I was there. The first was a flat black Fly truck with a tobacco livery. A crappy colour with an undesirable livery is great excuse to paint it. Taking it apart was interesting. At least the weather was nice. Then I painted a few HO bodies. Between the truck and the HO cars, I went through three cans of clear-coat and ran out before I finished painting. Three bodies still need clear-coat. Practise is good.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: How To – Paint It

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    • 10 months ago

      Avatar photoPorsche911

    • 59 Eldorado Biarritz Another beautiful Gunze Sangyo kit. "Biarritz" is Cadillac's fancy name for their Eldorado convertible. The same car in a hard-top was called a "Seville". Huge wings were "in style" back in the late 50's. I like the meadowlark yellow on the front of the box. But it's impossible to get that shade of light yellow in a spray can. I would need to move up into an air-gun. The colour below is an older spray paint now discontinued by Testors called "Lime Ice". The large metal flakes make it very 50's era. It suits a "Boulevard Cruiser".

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 1 year ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Unlimited open class bodies Here's a great source of lexan bodies for "Unlimited Open" class cars. http://www.bettaandclassic.com/index.htm Make sure you have a few minutes to spare before looking. There are a lot of very cool choices. Let me know if anyone wants to place an order with me to save on shipping from the UK? I can't believe that they actually make a 1972 Firenza. My first car.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Slot Car Resources

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    • 1 year ago

      Avatar photoGI

    • List of 1/32 static kits Here's a list of various 1/32 kits made over the years. Enjoy! :-) https://www.scalemates.com/search.php?fkSECTION[]=Kits&q=&fkTYPENAME[]=%22Full%20kits%22&fkSCALENORMALISED[]=%221:00032%22&fkCOMPNAME[]=%22Revell%22&fkCOMPNAME[]=%22Palmer%20Plastics%22&fkCOMPNAME[]=%22Premier%22&fkCATNAME[]=%22Cars%22

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Slot Car Resources

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    • 1 year ago

      Avatar photoPorsche911

    • Group25 show spoils I reserved a table at yesterdays Group25 show last fall or I would have been at Nova Ridge. I bought more than I sold. Oops. The 1/32 Russian Yak-18 will eventually be hung as a decoration above my new track. It will be painted as a stunt/show plane. The red Strombecker Chapparal 2D is an odd looking thing. You can't have too many Camaro's. Can you? I bought five 1/25 kits. I might turn one into a slot car.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Local Events & Happenings

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    • 1 year ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • The long search for a DB5 I bought a static Airfix DB5 kit a while back in hopes to make a slot car. I brought it home and found the body warped and unbuildable. I brought it back for exchange. I waited two weeks for another kit. I opened it up at the store and it too was unbuildable. I got my money back. I saw another Airfix DB5 kit at another hobby store several weeks later. I paid for it and opened the box in the store. Another warped body. That's three warped/unbuildable kits in a row. I have been eyeing this Scalex 2019 revival livery for quite a while. Everything in life is time sensitive, so I gave in. I'm not exactly sure what I'm going to do with it yet. But it looks better on my shelf than in the store. Plastic chassis slow sports car maybe?

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Vintage Slot Cars

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    • 1 year ago

      Avatar photoF1nutz

    • DArt McLaren M1B This M1B prototype got moved to the front of the build line. The plan is to standardize the M1B for DArt body/KRZ chassis quick-build kits in the near future. Chassis will be designed for slim-line motors to sit flat without the use of any spacers. A new paint-booth is under way. I decided to undo the mess I made in the basement kitchen before it became permanent. Anyone would have a hard time to figure out dozens of cars were painted there now. This prototype has CX0201 tires with 13x7 wheels on the front. The next prototype will have RM0201 tires with 13x5 wheels on the front.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 2 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Nova Gasser The gasser class may open up the field to some new body styles. This just came out as a current release from Atlantis. I was a bit concerned about the stock hood for a gasser. But the problem was already solved. There was no mention of this bonus scoop anywhere on the box. Nice surprise. The examples.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: What’s New! New Releases & Other Useful Stuff

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    • 2 years ago

      Arthur

    • New classic Mustangs anyone? Need a place to spend your retirement money? This will do it in one swift shot. Make sure you grab your heart, and sit down before you check the prices. They are scary. https://revologycars.com/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIse3Py6yr8AIVPMP2Ah0scAQhEAEYASAAEgJj5_D_BwE

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Interesting Reality Bites

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    • 2 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • What kits are you buying, building, working on during isolation? I'm always looking for different and odd kits to build for the future. Here are some recent finds... Luis helped me pick this up from around the Hamilton area. Thank you Luis! The Triumph Herald is an odd looking duck. This Spitfire kit came from one of the members of Group-25. These just arrived from HobbyLink Japan. I finally got a Carrera Panamericana Beetle! What is everyone up to? What are you building or buying for future, possible builds? Post any build at all. Nothing is too strange. Cool scenery is interesting too. I may not build every kit. But it's fun poking through the boxes and deciding. :-)

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Vintage Slot Cars

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    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Ranchero Gasser ideas I've been looking into Ranchero Gasser examples online. There are differences between them depending on budget. One thing they all have in common is the front end is quite high. But the exhaust systems and gas tanks can be all over the map. Here are some examples. Front mounted tank with budget headers, and straight open carbs. Side-dump exhausts with a very cool air-scoop over a super-charger. Exhaust out the fender wells, no hood over the chrome engine, and nice white walls on the rear wheels. Tank up front and regular headers. This is a BW pic of a slightly newer model Ranchero. The thing that I noted on this gasser is the rear tires are tucked under the wheel wells. The front end is high, the back end is low compared to the cars that have the wheel wells chopped out and totally rounded. I laid this on the table for a quick look at this project. The ruler would simulate the track height. I like the side-dump exhaust myself. Maybe a nice air-scoop on the hood, and little gas tank up front?

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Vintage Slot Car Articles and Other Reference Materials

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      Avatar photof1nutz

    • Rat Rod ideas There are a lot of kits out there that never entered an endurance race. The Studebaker Avanti is one of them. Strange, yet interesting car. It would probably be considered too narrow for a sports car. But it might fit the Rat Rod class in a striking ugly flat grey or flat black with 8-injector stacks and 8-exhaust pipes coming out of the hood. I'm installing headers on my next BRM and have a spare set of these exhaust pipes that would look crazy sticking out of each side of a Studebaker hood. Starting to lean towards the "Mad Max" theme.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Chassis pics A few customer's chassis pics. A few more. This strange looking chassis was made for a forum administrator on a site in the UK. It fits something called a Morris J-van. Very odd vehicle. But who am I to judge another man's passion?

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: How To Order

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      Avatar photoPorsche911

    • Routed test track It's not easy to guess how a new car will handle at a race. It's hit/miss without a track. Someone posted this and it caught my attention. It can be configured to go in reverse with the flip of a switch, and has it's own power supply with a potentiometer instead of a hand controller. A bit crude, but it only measures 30" inches by 48" inches. It would not take much to improve it for our own uses. As a first upgrade to this design. You can make all three curves different radiuses. Create a drag-strip beside it if you want to test top speed or acceleration. :yahoo:

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: How To – Build It

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    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • VW Beetle I finally broke down and bought an Arii Beetle for the Carrera Panamericana. Fun little kit. I decided to go with car number 262 in the Beetle caravan. The main difference between car 261 and 262 is the fold-up open top roof. Both cars were apparently red. The kit was molded in red. Why fight gravity? I studied the removable top in more detail. It did not look like someone stuck a matress on the roof of the car as pictured in the example of the model above. It might look more like the thickness of a sheet of paper on a 1/32 model. Like the example of the real car below.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

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      Avatar photoKen

    • Axle spacers and crown gears This combination of spacers was recently used on the Beetle chassis. I measured the distance between the bushings. Then measured the crown thickness. I was very lucky in that the numbers were close enough without having to use too many spacers to take up the gap. The exact right number. They are sitting in order of how they sit on the axle. 2mm brass and an 0.010" inch steel spacer.    Crown gear.    1.5mm brass and 2 x 0.005" inch steel spacers. Before gluing the motor in, the 0.010" spacer was installed on the same side as the 2 x 0.005" spacers. The motor was epoxied in place holding the gears tight to each other. After the 5-minute epoxy hardened. The axle was removed, and re-installed with the 0.010" washer on the other side to create an exact gear mesh clearance. The crown has raised letters that can interfere with measuring it. So I sand it smooth with 400-grit paper on a flat surface. I make small circles so as not to sand any side down more than the other. What I found by mistake is that you can easily take a tenth of a millimeter off the width of the crown to help it fit better. Use the least amount of spacers as possible during assembly. They can have a bit of a spring-like reaction in larger numbers. Best regards, Ken

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Assembly Tips

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    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Chassis list 1A First and foremost, I would like to thank Art for an amazing opportunity to be able to offer aluminum chassis on the S32 site. It's been an interesting road getting here. Many of the club members watched this concept grow from nothing. Most have become good friends. Many have already purchased chassis's, and they run well. I humbly thank everyone for having faith in me. I have drawings for the following cars/chassis. 1936 Auto Union (DArts) 1936 Bugatti T50B (Penelope Pitlane) 1948 Jaguar XK120 (Lindberg) 1949 Ford Tudor (Lindberg) 1953 Porsche 550 Spyder (DArts) 1955 Chevy Nomad (Gunze) 1956 Ferrari 290mm (DArts) 1957 Maserati 250F (Scalex) 1959 Eldorado Biarritz (Gunze) 1959 Impala Sports Coupe (Gunze) 1959 Fairlane 500 Skyliner (Gunze) 1961 Porsche RS61 (DArts) 1962 BRM 578 (DArts) 1962 MGB Sports (Airfix) 1963 Thunderbird (Gunze) 1963 Cooper Ford (Professor Motor) 1963 Corvette Stingray (AMT) 1964 Porsche 904 (MRRC) 1964 Lotus 30 (DArts) 1964 Rover BRM (Aurora) 1965 AC Cobra (Ninco) 1965 Mustang 2+2 (AMT) 1965 Pontiac GTO (Monogram) 1965 Triumph TR4A (Airfix) 1965 Corvair (DArts) 1966 Chaparral 2D (Strombecker) 1966 Shelby GT350 (Monogram) 1967 Ford Fairlane (Monogram) 1968 Matra MS10 (DArts) 1969 Corvette C3 (Revell) 1969 Ferrari 312P Berlinetta (DArts) 1969 Charger 500 (Carrera) 1969 Porsche 914 (SRC) 1970 Ferrari 512S (Fly) 1973 Shadow DN1 (DArts) 1974 McLaren M20 (Carrera) I may have a few more. Please inquire about your body if it's not on the list. Anything can be measured. Drive systems and prices available at this time are: Inline chassis = $50.00 Sidewinder chassis = $50.00 (plus $20.00 for an NSR Sidewinder pod, installation, and hardware) The prices are for a base aluminum chassis that you must assemble. SW pods are pre-installed. No other parts are included. 3/16" inch bearings, or bushings can be used. Due to the fact that these fit in the chassis without solder, bushings can easily be upgraded for bearings at anytime down the road. For an extra $5. You can add 2-lengths of Evergreen body post material (#227), 2-brass inserts (4-40), 2-flat washers, and 2-countersunk body screws. The guide hole is designed to fit a SlotIt CH10 universal guide. Please state your brand of guide before ordering. This whole thing is a bit of a test. Please, kindly help me figure out the learning curve? Thanks a million in advance! Ken

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Chassis Catalogue

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    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Body posts The 4-40 brass inserts are easy to install. Just set them on a hard surface, flat side down. Cut the Evergreen tubing a bit longer than required. Then use a small hammer to tap the plastic over the insert until the plastic bottoms out. The chassis needs to be partially assembled to the point of having the wheels spaced to fit snugly inside the body. This photo shows the body sitting on the tires without body posts. Then install the body posts directly to the chassis without washers of any sort. Test the body fit and trim the posts little by little until you like how the body sits. I often trim the posts until the body sits on the tires again. Then add the washers after for a close fit. It's the only way to slam a car. The photo below shows the body posts trimmed to size. The next step is to prepare the body for the posts. I scuff/scrape/scratch up the area where the epoxy will be applied with a knife. While the posts are still mounted to the chassis. I apply epoxy to the inside of the body, and a little to the top of the body posts and set the body on the chassis. For me, the tires resting on the body help keep the body level. You can add equal spacers under both rocker panels if you don't want to slam your car close to the track. Here are the body posts after being epoxied in place. The chassis can be completed for final assembly to the body. The steel and urethane washers have been added. The body sits very close to the tires, and we have body float. But the tires don't rub. :good: A small strip of masking tape is stuck under the chassis to prevent the body screws from backing out. Urethane washers on both sides aren't enough. They all need tape. You'll see it on all my builds. I found the best way to assemble the chassis to the body is... Screw through the chassis first, steel washer next, then urethane washer, to the body post. Lightly snug the screw until it allows the body to wobble ever so slightly. It may loosen up after the first race and require re-adjusting. It should then be good for many races. The urethane washers usually keep the screws and steel washers in place while chassis and body are disassembled for whatever reason. My first car is still on it's first set of urethane washers and going strong. Good old Fred Steinbroner in the funny blue Tudor. These urethane washers last a super looooong time. :good:

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Assembly Tips

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    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Industrial tools, machines, drill bits, etc… If you want a good selection of quality tools far outside what the usual hardware store offers. Check out KBC Tools & Machinery located at 6200 Kennedy Rd Unit #1, Mississauga, ON. L5T 2Z1. (905) 564-6600. Open 8am until 5pm Monday to Friday. I'm like a kid in a candy store when I walk in the door. "I'll take one of everything, thanks!". However. Unlike Home Depot or Canadian Tire. They have too much industrial grade stock to put it out on display. You need to sit at one of the tables where they have half a dozen 300-page catalogues to look at. Then fill out an order form with the part number of what you want, and wait for them to pick the order. They may not be able to recommend which drill bit, tap, or reamer is best for what you want to do. They are industrial order takers. Not machinists. If they have them in stock, you can get a free catalogue to take home and dream... I mean look at. They also sell small, medium, and large lathes, mills, saws, etc... Many are on display. If you like industrial tools? This is the place.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Workbench Essentials

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      Avatar photoKen

    • Getting started Everyone has different gifts and talents. No one has a monopoly on good ideas. Please feel free to send me an email with your questions, concerns, or suggestions. I will try and implement them into this forum. [email protected] Thanks a million! Ken

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Assembly Tips

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    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • How to keep your aluminum chassis, square I find using precision axle spacers help to build a chassis that remains square. The math keeps things accurate between all 4-corners. Many choices and brands of axle spacers are available. I tend to prefer NSR brass axles spacers for their accuracy. I try and keep several spacers in stock of almost every size ranging from 0.25mm to 4mm. I won't build a chassis without them. You often see them on my build threads. Motor installation section to follow shortly... Thank you for your patience. Ken

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Assembly Tips

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    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Thanks a million to everyone at Scratch32! I can't thank Art enough for creating this section, as well as the opportunity to offer aluminum chassis's here on the Scratch32 site. Art has been extremely helpful along the way. Many lessons and debates on building cars have taken place that helped set this in motion. I would also like to thank Chris Walker for the build lessons and pointers that gave me more understanding about good scratch building. I would also like to thank JMSracer for being my first customer. 10 times in a row now? :good: The idea being these are still for the scratch-builder. The benefits of an aluminum chassis are: 1) This saves a lot of time in getting a car to the point of final assembly. 2) The chassis is as accurate and square as digital equipment can make. 3) Bushings or bearings can easily be installed without solder. 4) The handling characteristics are track proven. 5) This can help someone get started in scratch-building. Thanks a million to the entire S32 club for helping me learn so much in such a short time! Note: An aluminum chassis with a body you painted counts as scratch-built car in Scratch32 rules.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: KRZ Custom Chassis

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    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • 1965 Corvair Corsa Build I was fortunate enough to get 2-unbuilt Corvair kits at the same time. The best of everything from the two went to Art. I'm building this one as a test. This one was missing the front bumper, which isn't really an issue for a Corvair race car. Art has the front bumper to make complete Corsa kits. The paint is Testors "Star Spangled Blue". The colour on lid looks great. The nonsense coming out of the can is another thing altogether. :negative: More to follow...

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoJMSracer

    • Open Trans Am car suggestions I'm chuckling as I look through the list of cars that ran in the under 2-liter Trans Am class. Ford/Lotus Cortina, Ford Pinto, Chevy Vega, Ford Escort Mk1, Mini Cooper... just to mention but a few. I doubt anyone envied a driver that raced a Pinto. B-) I'm just curious if open TA means any car that can be proven to have raced in Trans Am between 1966 and 1973? As in cars from the list above. Porsche 911's included. Any motor in any proven Trans Am car? Scary thought. The reason I ask... I have a 1969 Porsche 911 and a 1971 Ford Escort Mk1. I can put 40k motors in both cars? :wacko: Cheers, Ken

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • 1965 Corvair Corsa The Corvair got a bad rap from Ralph Nader. Real Corvair owners all say that they did not experience whatever Ralph Nader was talking about. Some people say he was referring to the "hammer" effect of having a rear engine car. Exactly like a Porsche. Which no American car had before it. A Chevrolet dealership by the name of "Yenko" made a bunch of special Corvair Corsa's. They were very fast. They went by the name "Yenko Stingers". Aurora made a very nice static model of the 1965 Corvair Corsa with the flat-6. But there is only one, single, solitary kit on Ebay, and it's been there for the last year. And he just recently went from $150 USD, to $125 USD.  Still far too much money. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Aurora-Corvair-Corsa-1-32-Scale-Plastic-Model-Kit-666-130/254550866928?hash=item3b4469fbf0:g:89YAAOSw~wRecNYr Then out of the blue I happened to locate one. The box looks new and sparkles. The kit inside is new and perfect. This 1965 Chevrolet Corvair Corsa is far more rare than a Rover BRM. Before I run off and build this ultra rare kit for SCCA. Does this car spark any interest to make a copy? Just asking before the point of no return...

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Historical 1:1

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    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Tail lights, turn signals, and back up lights I'm still learning much as a model builder and thought I might share some of my mistakes along the way. I used to use straight bright red to paint tail lights. It took a few cars to figure out that clear red looks much better. The clear lens in the bumper was painted from behind. The bullets painted over top. Both came out better than expected. Turn signals were also giving me grief until someone at Group-25 mentioned that "turn signal amber metallic" was avalaible. For back up lights and white turn signals. Gloss white seems to work okay. Note the plain red paint on the Failane tail light. That was painted before I found the clear red. Such is life. :unsure: If you have something to add or share. Please do! :good:

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: How To – Paint It

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    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Shelby GT-350 I started this car before I had proper direction. A newbie mistake if you will. I did not realize when I chose the "Candy Lime Green" colour that S32 Sportscar class stops at 1965. After a little bit of digging. I found a 1966 Shelby GT-350 that was entered in the 1967 Targa Florio (#210). A scarce American Mustang among a field of mostly European cars. It didn't make the race due to an accident during practice. It became a one-of-a-kind GT-350 BBQ. There are very few pictures of this car simply because it didn't race. This Shelby was all white. After taking 3-days to remove some really nice paint. The "Candy Lime Green" Shelby became all white. The chassis. I put a little more effort into manipulating the rear of the chassis so it tucks under the rear valance. Measure twice, cut once. The Shelby fits in the GT+2.0 class and requires a Scalex 18k motor. I went with 9x28 gears with an offset crown to keep the CG as low as possible. You can still see hints of green under the body. Hard to get it all out. The chassis tucks nicely under rear valance. It's a tight fit. The car came with black wheels. Inserts are D'Art 5-spokes. The car sits fairly low. The body could have gone even lower. But it's my humble opinion that it would not improve the look even though there might be a slight handling improvement to lowering it further. It's very difficult see the chassis under the body unless you lay your eye on the track. Mission accomplished in my books. The car has body-float.The tires don't rub on the fenders even at the extreme flex of the body-float. But they sure can't get any closer than they already are. It should be ready for the next Targa Florio. Thanks for looking.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • 65 Pontiac GTO A friend (Another Michael) in Group-25 model club gave me this Monogram static kit and said "Make it go!". I finally decided to take his advice. It might make an excellent "Classic Stock Car". The picture on the front makes the car look tall and skinny. The decals on the side of the car look terrible. Two things I plan to avoid with this build. This is what comes in the box. After water sanding the body with 2000-grit paper. It's ready for paint. Tamiya orange covers the red fairly well without primer. I ditched the decals and threw the tall and skinny idea out the window. The rest of the field of Classic Stock Cars were the inspiration for the final body-height of this GTO. There is much yet to be completed like blacking out the front grills. Painting the tail lights red. The body requires Molotow chrome pen detailing. The driver is on order. He's out getting a hamburger, fries, and a Coke. One suggestion for a sponser is "Kickapoo Joy Juice". You would need to have lived through the mid 60's and already be self-aware to remember this old soft-drink (soda pop). Perfect for a vintage 1965 car.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

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      Avatar photoKen

    • 65 AC Cobra I bought a Ninco AC Cobra missing some parts a long while back. Steve and Art were with me at Carefree Hobbies when Nick (store owner) quoted $20. My brothers in slot cars were a bit dissapointed that they didn't see the car first. I was lucky that day. Thanks Nick! The body used to look like this. The car I would like to make is a Targa Florio livery from 1966. It will also serve as a Sportscar SP+. This idea started long before last July when I originally painted the body. Too many plans... Too many cars... The sun really makes the metallic pop. This Cobra will get a Scalex FF 050 slim line motor with an offset crown - 9 x 27. Stock, legal motor for this class.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Airfix Triumph TR4A I bought this kit at the slot-car show. It looks as narrow as a roller blade. But I like to torture myself so... The MGB had a track width of 41mm from the outside of the sidewall bulges. This would have a track width of 39mm if I didn't lift the wheel arches over the tires a little. Which I might add... is exactly what they did with the real car too. This is one car you can't afford to slam. I hope this to have this ready for the upcoming Meisterschaft. Along with my Jaguar XK 120... this car was built only to have fun and lose races. But at least look good doing so. :good:

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

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      Avatar photoKen

    • 59 Fairlane 500 Skyliner – Police car? Art and I recently talked about adding another dimension to the street racing theme. Having a police cruiser to chase the other cars. The chase car gets a head start. You have to stop and count your laps when the police cruiser catches up to you. I'm pretty sure a Skyliner hardtop/convertible was never made into a police cruiser. But it's a 59 Fairlane 500 none the less. I installed the chassis before the rear fender skirts. The body height at the front of the rocker panel is a respectable 3mm. It's even more respectable at 4mm for the rear of the rocker panel. I thought based on the front wheel housing that the car didn't look very low. Then I installed the rear fender skirts. Those added skirts make the back of the car look low. Such is life. The factory hub caps look great on a police car.  

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

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      Avatar photoJMSracer

    • D'Art BRM 578 The Hot Rod Garage was open for business today. I need to solder a pinion gear. Then the motor can be glued in place and wired. It took a lot of extra sanding to get the chassis to fit the back of the body. I had to install the bearings on the inside because the flanges were in the way. I hope to have it running later today sometime. Very little room for the rear body post so it had to be drilled offset. Everything is a super tight fit at the back of the car. But it all fits. Ken

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

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      Avatar photoKen

    • Boulevard Cruisers I stumbled across a very detailed kit last year I thought was a loner. At the Group25 show last weekend, I discovered there is a series of these cars. Gunze Sangyo is the manufacturer of these stunning 1/32 kits. You rarely see this type of detail. The chrome is over the top and really sparkles. There 7-cars to choose from: A 1955 Chevy Nomad, 57 Chevy Belair, 57 Caddy Brougham, 59 Caddy Seville, 59 Impala Sport, 59 Fairlane 500, and a 63 Thunderbird. Many are around $25 on EBay.   The 59 Impala comes with 4-options for the roof. Open back seat, rear seat cover, soft top, or hard top. The 63 Thunderbird comes with 3-options for the roof. Open back seat, tonneau cover, or full roof. Art saw these kits at the show and it inspired him enough to suggest a new class of street racers without numbers. May I suggest it be called "Boulevard Cruisers"? White walls, low riders, slow motors... I also located a 59 Eldorado Biarritz. It's supposed to arrive next week. I really hope this turns into a new class in the future as Art suggested. These cars from Gunze Sangyo are stunningly beautiful! EBay search "gunze sangyo 1/32"

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: R32 Class Criterium

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      Avatar photoKen

    • 1971 Targa Florio video Here's 31-minutes of the 1971 Targa we all know and love. Stick with it through the slow parts. You'll probably learn a little Italian before the end of the video. Nice interview with Nino Vaccarella. A few club members might recognize their liveries. The faster cars taking off from the starting line are insane! :yahoo: https://www.facebook.com/GentlemenDriversASD/videos/215963979626676/ Cheers, Ken

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Historical 1:1

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      Arthur

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