Forum Replies Created
It’s a bit over 15″ inches long. The tanker is shorter in height than the typical box trailers. It might actually fit under your over-passes with very little effort. I don’t want to break the factory seal so we’ll find out when I bring it over.
I’m still admiring the really cool molded fenders, wheels, tires, gas valves, etc…
It’s in a factory sealed bag with nice tires etc… Art. Please consider this as trade for the Tudor you already donated? It might look nice behind that cab, or off to the side somewhere. I could not pass it by.
I was at Hornet Hobbies today and this thread got my eye to notice this 1/32 tanker. However, I don’t have a track or truck.
Very cool! It runs really well too. There’s nothing like the sound of 10-tires running down the track on one vehicle!
It will never roll over. That’s a fact. Watching it fly through the corners was pretty amazing.
I feel sorry for the guy behind the tire truer.
KenOctober 30, 2018 at 7:25 pm in reply to: Monday, October 29, 2018 (7:00-9:30pm) Basic Aluminum Chassis Design/Build #9160
Mounting the body:
Once you’ve assembled your chassis parts to check for optimum wheel width etc. It’s time to figure out the best location for body posts. Every car is different. I use Evergreen styrene tubing with brass inserts (inserts from Spaenaur) and 5-minute epoxy to mate the body to the chassis. Estimate the tubing to be a bit longer than it needs to be. Install the brass inserts. Then hand drill the holes for the body posts. With the chassis together, install the posts to the chassis and set the body on the posts. If it sits right. I use a dab of epoxy to get it started. Then after the epoxy hardens. I go back and reinforce it. I usually go back and adjust the height of the posts several times before it’s perfect.
The main reason to build everything extremely light is so that you can go back and put weight back into the car so it will handle better. Someone keeps telling me that the race is won or lost in the corners. A low CG helps keep the car on the track in the corners. You need to bring as much of the bulk weight to just above the track to try and cancel out all the weight up top (fenders, hood, trunk, roof, windows, etc…) You can always move the weight up, or add some to the top of the motor if you need more tire-bite.
Professor Motor single flange roller beargings PMTR 1176
Professor Motor single flange oil-lite bushing PMTR 1073
Professor Motor axles PMTR 1034
NOTE: Slot-It axles are slightly oversize and won’t fit the bearings
If you use this method of building for bearing alignment. Professor Motor bushings will almost be as good as bearings. But at after going to this trouble. Why use bushings? Unless of course you have a drawer full of bushings…
And that was the evening.
KensRedZedOctober 30, 2018 at 6:59 pm in reply to: Monday, October 29, 2018 (7:00-9:30pm) Basic Aluminum Chassis Design/Build #9158
The machining process:
1) Make sure the chassis is cut long enough. Finding out it’s too short after the fact is never a good experience.
2) After doing the math. Mark/paint the guide and axles areas with a black marker. Scribe cross-hairs over the black marker ink using the caliper to measure from the sides. That’s how I locate the holes.
3) Clamp the part securely without flexing it
4) Make sure the part is true before drilling
5) Always use a drop of oil at every drilling step
6) Always use a pilot drill first. This prevents the other drill bits that come after from wandering. Imperative to keeping the opposite bearing side in line with the first bearing
7) Run the drill at about 600 rpm (slow)
8) Never move the table once you start the drilling process. Carefully change the tools from pilot drill, #14 drill, then the reamer before moving to the next hole
9) Mark the chassis for scrap removal. I use a band saw with a metal blade at high speed so the teeth won’t grab and bend the aluminum by mistake. Leave a small margin for error and finish with a file. The saw cuts both sides at the same time. Make sure to hold the part securely to the cutting bed or the sides won’t match.October 30, 2018 at 6:40 pm in reply to: Monday, October 29, 2018 (7:00-9:30pm) Basic Aluminum Chassis Design/Build #9157
Mapping out the chassis:
The motor is the biggest fixed factor with an aluminum chassis because it can’t sit below the motor plate (it can only if you dare to machine it). The axle should sit parallel to the motor shaft while the motor is sitting flat in the channel or the pinion and crown won’t line up properly. You can get away with a minor offset up or down which you may choose to use depending on how low the chassis will sit off the track based on your specific tire diameter. Large motors like Boxers, Slot-It, BWNC1, and Scalextric need tall tires to work. Slim-line motors like the BWA050 or Flat-6 are generally easier to work with.
Most aluminum channel has variations in wall thickness. Always make sure the thickest wall is the bottom to give the guide all the help it can get.
Once you’ve selected a car and motor. Figure out your minumum required tire diameter to make sure the chassis will clear the track. Short rear tires won’t work with a tall motor without dragging the chassis across the floor. Some motors may not work with some cars because the math does’t work with the tire diameter.October 30, 2018 at 6:23 pm in reply to: Monday, October 29, 2018 (7:00-9:30pm) Basic Aluminum Chassis Design/Build #9156
I don’t mind sharing that I was a bit nervous. Happy to do another workshop if everyone wants one.
Art suggested to put the reference notes here for everyone. This slightly ammended from last night.
Please keep in mind this is merely how I do things. Always keep safety first.
Tools and materials I use:
1) 8″inch drill press
2) Compound table (Kijiji, Amazon.com or Ebay)
3) 3/4″ aluminum square tubing (Home Depot)
4) #14 drill bit for reamer (KBC Tools)
5) #27 drill bit for guide (Slot-It CH-10 univeral guide)
6) 3/16″ reamer (KBC Tools)
7) 1/16″ pilot drill(KBC Tools)
8) Oil as cutting fluid
9) 1-2-3 blocks (Busy Bee Tools)
10) 2 x pieces of aluminum bar as clamps (Home depot)
11) 4 x Bolts and nuts for clamping
12) Flat, fine file
13) Band saw with 3/16″ metal blade
14) Digitial calipers
15) Black marker (wide)
16) Belt sander with rotary side disk
17) Safety glassesOctober 30, 2018 at 8:44 am in reply to: Monday, October 29, 2018 (7:00-9:30pm) Basic Aluminum Chassis Design/Build #9152
You guys are a good bunch of friends. It is my humble honour to try and give back to the sport. Everyone has been so helpful.
Thanks goes to the club for being a good influence.
KenOctober 29, 2018 at 11:54 am in reply to: Monday, October 29, 2018 (7:00-9:30pm) Basic Aluminum Chassis Design/Build #9149
I’ve painted 9-cars in total so far. 7 are in the picture. I am no expert by any margin and consider myself a new student.
I would be happy to show everyone all the mistakes I can make painting just one car. I’m sure it would make everyone laugh. I was given one very good lesson by Marty from Toys2envy at Group-25 static model building club. But I still had many questions. Reading your section on “how to paint” answered my questions beyond the demonstration Marty gave me. It’s a newbies right to read all the stuff that’s posted here. It’s a bit time consuming, but definitely worth digging through.
I found out it’s not really learning how to paint. It’s more like, learning how not to paint and how to avoid pitfalls.
KenOctober 28, 2018 at 8:15 pm in reply to: Monday, October 29, 2018 (7:00-9:30pm) Basic Aluminum Chassis Design/Build #9145
Here are my choices to bring for tomorrow. I need to measure them all up for a chassis yet.
The MGB (Mouse Goes Ballistic) will be a slow-class car.
I look forward to having fun tomorrow.
KenOctober 28, 2018 at 8:09 pm in reply to: Monday, October 29, 2018 (7:00-9:30pm) Basic Aluminum Chassis Design/Build #9144
I am so far behind in building cars for S32 that I went on a painting spree several weeks ago. Yes that’s a second 69-71 white Corvette. The first one, the body is ready to install on the chassis. The second Vette will be unlimited class down the road. All this started with a humble Lindberg 49 Ford Tudor that another member donated to me. Thanks again Art. Looks like I took the bait. Hook, line, and sinker! 🙂October 28, 2018 at 4:18 pm in reply to: Classic Era Challenge IV (1966-1971) – October 27, 2018 #9143
It was a fun day and a good bunch of guys!
Thank you very kindly Art for the opportunity to win that cool door prize. Well done JMs!
I need to salute Sal for the courage to share the day with a bunch of speed monsters! I remember that exact same feeling last March. I hope you return.
KenOctober 26, 2018 at 5:57 pm in reply to: Classic Era Challenge IV (1966-1971) – October 27, 2018 #9135
I’m racing for 3-reasons. To be with friends, have fun, and race at a really cool track. I’ve measured my basement for a track like MVL. Won’t fit.
I don’t mind coming in last, so long as I have the most fun. Most times it’s mission accomplished!
See everyone tomorrow!
Number 51 is born. The decals are a pain in the neck.
Windows and headlight lenses are about to go in. Then interior, driver, and a little flat black paint on those rear louvers. That’s tonights homework.
Rear orange dot tires will be ready to true tomorrow.
My Ford Tudor had to be debugged quite a bit before it ran properly. The Tudor lost a bunch of races before it started improving. I would be foolish to expect this car to be any different. My Slot-It GT40 is also ready for Saturday.
KenOctober 25, 2018 at 5:04 pm in reply to: Monday, October 29, 2018 (7:00-9:30pm) Basic Aluminum Chassis Design/Build #9114
I will bring hand-outs for references.
Please bring your own safety glasses if you want to watch the drilling process. Thanks for asking.
Thanks for the tip Mike. You are absolutely right. Dubro brand will likely be more than good enough.
If I’m going to travel to Mississauga. I like KBC tools. A candy store for the machinist at heart!
Here’s a pic of the set-screws that just arrived from Spaenaur.
1) Professor Motor 2mm by 3mm long = $1.00 each (10 per bag)
2) Spaenaur 2mm by 4mm long = $0.29 each (100 per bag)
3) Spaenaur 2-56 by 1/8″ inch long = $0.16 each (50 per bag)
4) Spaenaur 2-56 by 3/16″ inch long = $0.16 each (50 per bag)
All set-screws seem to be equal in quality to the Professor Motor 2mm by 3mm. I agree with Art in that the 2mm x 3mm long strip easy. The 2mm x 4mm will be 33% less prone to stripping simply by being longer. They all use the same driver as the Professor Motor 2mm screw.
Hollow point, hardened steel set-screws. Not sure what size key until they arrive.
The 2-56 tap was not that easy to find. My usual supplier, Karl Richter in Scarborough would have to special order one. So I made the trip from Scarborough to KBC tools on Kennedy road in Mississauga. They had a choice. Made in the USA for $19, or second quality version for $12. I went for the one made in USA. It will last my entire life if I always use oil. Good quality tools are never a waste of money.
Here’s an example of what I mean. I called Hornet Hobbies, Minigrid, Concord Fasteners, Brafasco, Hobby Hobby, and Great Hobbies for 2-56 set-screws. No one had them in stock, and no one wanted to order them.
So I called Spaenaur today. They have them in stock by the box. 50 set-screws 2-56 x 1/8″ inch = $8.00. I also bought another box of 50, 2-56 x 3/16″ for another $8.00. They arrive tomorrow via Fedex.
Absolutely stunning. Amazing attention to detail!
My humble apologies for having to cancel at the last minute. Work related emergency.
Looking forward to the next races.
Thank you for the kind words gentlemen. Macro camera settings and interior lights are not a paint job’s best friend. This looks a bit better. KenSeptember 24, 2018 at 4:39 pm in reply to: Drilling holes in aluminum for 3/16" single flange bearings #8782
It’s my pleasure to help where I can. I originally bought 1″-inch square tubing and realised it was a bit big for 1/32.
Bill. There’s a 9″inch length of 1″ inch square tubing for you at Art’s place to experiment with. It looks better suited for 1/24 cars. Have fun and knock yourself out!September 24, 2018 at 2:28 am in reply to: Drilling holes in aluminum for 3/16" single flange bearings #8773
Poetry in motion. Thanks for looking. KenSeptember 24, 2018 at 2:26 am in reply to: Drilling holes in aluminum for 3/16" single flange bearings #8772
Compound table and and an inexpensive drill press does wonders.September 24, 2018 at 2:23 am in reply to: Drilling holes in aluminum for 3/16" single flange bearings #8771
The reamer barely takes off a hairs worth of material. Just to clarify. I used the pilot drill, then changed the tooling to the #14 drill. Then changed the tooling to the reamer before moving over to the next axle hole. It’s the only way to keep the bearings across from each other true.September 24, 2018 at 2:19 am in reply to: Drilling holes in aluminum for 3/16" single flange bearings #8770
I have a compound table that costs around $90. It has a scale and measurements but I only trust my scribed lines. The only reason I like the table is that it keeps the part locked in place so I can drill for both axles. There is very little chance to be out of alignment from each other that way. I use a #14 drill bit. It’s about .005″ undersize so the reamer does very little work. I use oil at every stage of drilling. It helps prevent drilling oversized holes.
Time to test fit the bearings, axles, etc. I had the body painted long ago and only started the chassis today. More building to follow shortly. Thanks for looking. Ken
Further detailing to the guide keel area. A new file cleans up the rest of the chassis very quickly.
Chassis roughed out.
Sketch the lines to cut the aluminum that doesn’t belong. Then off to the band saw we go.
And so the project begins. Another piece of 3/4″ aluminum square tubing from local hardware store. Drilled and reamed holes for bearings. Also drilled the guide keel hole.
Here’s a photo of where the body mold line used to be. Easy to sand out. Nice body kit to build! Thanks Art. Ken.
Here’s the extent of orange-peel because I laid the paint on a touch too thick. Oh well… Such is life. Ken
A different view.
Some suggested yellow would look sweet. It’s far from perfect. The car just needs to remain in motion.
The body is very light at only 17-grams. I thought this would end up a light car. That means the bare chassis weighs 70-grams! I know the aluminum isn’t the culprit. A rear wheel fell off the workbench after truing the tire. I should have suspected something when it left a dent in the floor.
While the BWA-450 wheels look amazing on the rear and very close to the scale of the real car. I may not have needed to go that wide for a slot car. The big wheels and tires may only hold the car back in a drag race. I don’t think the Fox-10 will spin these tires. I have a feeling the rear tires won’t slide easily. The car may stick or just roll over. Art made an adjustment to the Lola tires for me and the car performed twice as good as it did 5-minutes earlier. I have much to learn about tire/wheel science yet.
I had no idea how the Tudor would run until it touched the track. I have no clue how this car will perform. Not sure what weapon this will be other than a very heavy rock. I still need to add weight to the front end. Time will tell.
I also need to choose a colour. Anything but red. My humble apologies to Enzo.
My platform for this build is Art’s Lola T70 MkII. The Lola has a gear ratio of 3.27. This is 3.33 with a 9/30 pinion to crown. I feel sorry for the crown gear. It’s going to take a serious beating behind the Fox-10. Thanks for looking. Ken.
Chassis sits 2.5 mm above the tech block. Any lower and the body screws become a danger. It’s time for paint. More pics to come when it’s painted.
It weighs 87 grams without the window or interior.
Body/chassis bottom view.
Wired and ready to run. Epoxy holds the motor in place.
Motor fits nicely now. Body post holes have been located and drilled.
The Fox-10 was wider than the slimline slow motor so I had to remove some of the material from the channel to make it fit
Thanks a million for another great race! It was a fun evening.
Thank you Jim! It was a great day of racing!
Lots of cool cars including a Racer Ferrari 350P CanAm. My first time seeing one race. Sweet! :good:
Art. Thank you very kindly for the door prizes.
At first when I saw the body washers I didn’t take them seriously. Now I’m a believer! My Tudor would not handle like it does without these body washers. The difference is like night and day! If you got any other penny secrets that’ll make a tippy car start winning races even with a bad driver? Please let me know? :yahoo:
Thank you kindly! I forgot to add one last part. Not for looks, but out of respect I installed none-scuff feet so the box doesn’t scratch any surfaces at any tracks I happen to visit. Bread boxes were never meant to travel.
I know a guy with this exact same car. So I printed a copy and slid it behind the front glass. I hope you like it. The box I mean.
Thank you very kindly,
Everything in the box.