[f1nutz]

Ok so of the few gasser eligible kits I have I decided on this one.

 

Topic

[f1nutz]

The weather was nice outside so I added a quick splash of gloss black.

[Ken]

F1nutz. An original. The 1965 is a great looking bodystyle. Who makes it?

[f1nutz]

In case you’re wondering about the thread title…

[f1nutz]

It’s an old Monogram kit from the 70’s.

Now to search for some appropriate decals.

That could take some digging…

[f1nutz]

It was originally a slot car body by Aurora but inthink Monogram then released it as a model kit. Looks like the same mold.

[f1nutz]

Here is the original Aurora K&B slot car.

[f1nutz]

It is a little worn but all there. The original plastic color is red but this one was painted when I got it years ago.

Ken you’re going to love the chassis 😉 your favorite material.

 

[Anonymous]

Very cool Bill…….!!, I gather you are not planning to use the old K&B chassis ??

Here is a pic. of a restored/modified 1965 K&B chassis……..it has had some motor work done, and to enable it to be quickly restored to stock, the side pans were designed so that they bolted into the original chassis holes on this 1/24th chassis.

With the mods. done it runs very well……..but, from a performance perspective, 1965 was basically the end of the solid aluminum chassis 😉

 

 

Cheers

Chris Walker

[Ken]

Thank you very kindly Bill. Now I know where this body mold came from.

My Barracuda will eventually be a slow class SCCA racer. Your gasser will always be the original. :good:

[f1nutz]

Nice work as always Chris! The stock chassis on mine actually performs fairly well but I will be building a chassis for the orange body.

I do recall another K&B you tuned quite well in the past. The quickest I had seen.

Glad you have the kit as well Ken. I’m sure yours will no doubt be completed first.

[Ken]

Bill. Yours will be first. My front grills are stuck in Buffalo since the first lockdown. They won’t be here for a long while yet.

Chris. I like your brass side plates that sit level with the base of the strange alloy chassis material. The chassis is made of… Unobtainium?

The aluminum chassis looks as if it started out as flat sheets. Then the interlocking channels got stamped into shape? Just asking for the sake of knowledge. I’ve never seen one up close. Thank you very kindly.

[GI]

I’m curious as to whether you guys will be building these Gassers with the body position or chassis high off the ground?

[Anonymous]

Ken wrote:

Chris. I like your brass side plates that sit level with the base of the strange alloy chassis material. The chassis is made of… Unobtainium? The aluminum chassis looks as if it started out as flat sheets. Then the interlocking channels got stamped into shape? Just asking for the sake of knowledge. I’ve never seen one up close. Thank you very kindly.

 

Hello Ken, All of the mid 60’s Aluminum chassis were stamped,…..so, yes, they would have started as flat sheets…….there were many fairly intricate stamped aluminum chassis,…..the Cox “Iso” likely the most famous/best performing.

 

Here is a pic. of one of my Cox “Iso” chassis……….it has been modified with the addition of a brass center section weight, and a nut/bolt through the top of the front main crossmember to limit the center section (drop arm ) vertical movement.

 

Cheers

Chris Walker

[Ken]

Chris. Thank you very kindly for the detailed explanation. That’s also a very slick looking chassis with the drop-arm. :good:

I dream of building a “wheelie” car one day with the drop-arm idea. That might a be cool idea to add to our latest gasser class? :whistle:

[f1nutz]

Hahaha I just noticed the booster neo magnets on Chris’s K&B motor. Do they give much boost Chris?

The chassis is made with 2 piece aluminum sleeves so you can adjust the wheelbase Ken and it has a pancake motor mounted on its side so you’d love it!

 

[Anonymous]

f1nutz wrote:

Hahaha I just noticed the booster neo magnets on Chris’s K&B motor. Do they give much boost Chris? The chassis is made with 2 piece aluminum sleeves so you can adjust the wheelbase Ken and it has a pancake motor mounted on its side so you’d love it!

 

Well spotted Bill,……….the neo magnets do help the rather feeble magnets in these motors…….a bit more grunt, and brakes. If you are thinking of adding some to your motor, just make sure the polarity is aligned. I placed them on both the top and bottom of the motor plates.

Unlike the “Challenger” motor in you car Bill, the motor in this car is the “Super Challenger” which has a more typical cylindrical comm., not a flat “pancake” comm.

While I know that you like to keep your vintage cars stock, you can certainly help these old K&B’s to perform better.

The first thing to do, is to bore out the sloppy molded in axle bushings, and replace them with 3/16 x 1/8th oilites…….this will improve handling, gear mesh and top speed.

My motor also had the comm trued, arm balanced, new motor brushes/springs, and one of the “hop up” gear sets offered by K&B.

 

Cheers

Chris Walker

Here is a before and after shot of the added oilites.

 

[f1nutz]

GI I’m planning on going with an appropriately raised chassis otherwise what’s the point? Ideally I’d like to see these drag raced rather than ‘lapped’ … maybe one day. I have an Ho drag strip, not the auto world one and it is fun. We run it for fun sometimes after our regular Ho race nights since it doesn’t take too long to run a bunch of brackets.

[Ken]

Gary. The description for the gassers says they are expected to sit up high.

Bill. I have a 35-foot straight line in my basement. It’s only 20.6 feet for 1/32 – 1/8th mile drag racing. That leaves 14-feet for dynamic braking, and a feather/pillow cushion stop. It would not take much for me to make a drag strip. A timing system is already available. We would be one of the first clubs to have BWMS050 drag-racing.

[f1nutz]

Sounds like a plan. I don’t think you would need 14 feet if the run off rails are isolated and shorted. I halved my runoff distance that way on the Ho track. Worst part is walking down to get the cars back but some use a return lane.

[Ken]

Hi Bill. Extra run-off space won’t hurt anything since it’s already there. I could use the walking exercise. I’m thinking three 12′ foot lengths of routed track that gets laid down once every month or two. The idea has merit.

[f1nutz]

How about this bad boy?

 

[f1nutz]

This could also be interesting…

hahaha

[Ken]

Wow! Both are great scratch build kits.

[f1nutz]

Thanks for the tips Chris. I’ve heard that the K&B motor magnets lose their force if you disassemble them from the metal flux pieces which would require rezapping them after reassembly, so I’ve been reluctant to do so. Is that the case in your experience?

Any that I have found already disassembled would confirm this but I have no specific before and after proof.

[Anonymous]

f1nutz wrote:

Thanks for the tips Chris. I’ve heard that the K&B motor magnets lose their force if you disassemble them from the metal flux pieces which would require rezapping them after reassembly, so I’ve been reluctant to do so. Is that the case in your experience? Any that I have found already disassembled would confirm this but I have no specific before and after proof.

 

Hi Bill, I do not have a gauss meter, so I do not personally have an accurate answer on how much magnet strength is lost when removing these old ferrous block magnets……..I have heard from some fairly reliable/knowledgeable  sources that it may be as much as 25%…….I will take their word.

Luckily, I do have access to a “zapper”, so I do give them a quick jolt before replacing them.

 

Cheers

Chris Walker

PS I am sure that you know that you can buy some “neo” magnets for the older “train” type Scaley etc. motors.

They do seem to help, but, on a plastic track, they give too much magnetic downforce for my liking.

[f1nutz]

Thanks for the info Chris. I didn’t know they made neos for old scaleys seems like overkill to me. I like them as they are personally.

cheers

Bill

[Ken]

The 75k Binford-2000 slot car motor. Available at your local hobby shop. :yahoo:

[f1nutz]

Anyone guess where I’m headed with this?

[f1nutz]

Maybe it clearer after the mask reveal…

[f1nutz]

This might help jog your memory…Hemmmmm…let me think

[f1nutz]

Ok ok you guys are a little slow on the uptake today so here goes, last hint.

[GI]

One of the famous Wheelstanders of the day, Hurst Hemi Under Glass.  Looking forward to this build.

Now you will have to have a miniature Linda Vaughn beside the car.

[f1nutz]

Haha thanks! Maybe I can put my sculpting skills to work and make a Linda Vaughn figure 😉

Have to build the car first 😉

[Ken]

Sharp looking car!

I didn’t have time to respond.

Good luck making Linda. You may need to run to the store to get more resin. She was a bit top heavy if I remember correctly. 🙂

[f1nutz]

Decals on! Just some small paint touch ups and off to clear coat.Starting to look like a drag car!

[Arthur]

Looks great F1nutz!

The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!

[f1nutz]

Here’s a more natural stance.

[JMSracer]

This is looking good. I assume you have the front and rear windshield otherwise you will have to perfect your glassblowing skills for the curves in the rear. Did you print your own decals or is this one of your projects that’s been siting in a box for the last 10 or 20 years waiting for its time?

Is this going to be an actual class?  and if it is, are we running laps or just a drag race down the straight?

[f1nutz]

<p style=”text-align: left;”>Thanks Jim yes I have the rest of the kit so no worries re: windows. It had been buried in a closet for the last 10 years. I did print the decals for the main logo but most of the contingency decals came from various other kits’ leftovers since my printed decals are not as sharp as I would prefer them. I have wanted to build this subject for a long time but never really got to it. The next event posted has a couple of dragster classes including a ‘gasser’ class. My understanding is that it will be a circuit race but drag racing is an intriguing idea as well. Regardless this gives me an excuse to finally build the car in this outstanding (upstanding?) and famous livery. Thanks again.</p>
Bill

[Ken]

Bill. That’s a fantastic looking Barracuda!

The original car.

 

[GI]

Looks like Bob Riggle needs to retake his drivers test.

[Ken]

He’s had 2-accidents in 50-years of professional driving. I think he’s doing great for his age.

It looks as if he took the wheelie a bit too far for camera’s sake and and simply ran out of space to make the turn around. Drag-race cars don’t corner well at all.

I was going to say we’ll all find out shortly. But then realized, I’m not driving. 😉

[JMSracer]

Definitely one of the more action packed Jay Leno Garage clips.  This may be a preview of things to come racing these models around a track instead of just drag racing them down a straight line.  I think we need to consult our resident drag race expert Mr. J Guts.  He may have some valuable bits of information that he can share with us having raced 1/32 dragsters with 100k+ motors for many years.

F1nuts, I think the value of your Barracuda just shot up, since the original was complete destroyed and needs to be rebuilt, while yours will be an original.  Funny, the only two things that remained intact and unscathed were the Hemi and the glass.  Bob might be the only 80 year old that can get it up but he may has lost his ability to control it ;-).   I think Jay got an earful from Mavis after this event.

[f1nutz]

Yes that is painful to watch. Also the later version of the car. That was a dumb place to film the clip. Clearly not enough room to slow down properly before turning. Hopefully mine will corner slightly better. We’ll see.

[Porsche911]

Very Impressive Bill!! I remember building that model when I was a wee lad… They could have used this Model’s ‘ballast’ to control the wheelie…

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[Porsche911]

Miss “Golden Shifter”(I said Pardon!) herself. :yahoo:

[Author]

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