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    • R32 XLV FINAL RACE RESULTS Saturday, February 19, 2022 @ MVL (12 pm) Classes: Classic Stock Car (CSC), Trans Am (TA), Modern LeMans (LMP) and CANAM (CA); Format: Random chip draw will determine rotation position for every race. 3 minute heats (180 seconds) x 4. Five marshals for every heat. Race to line result will determine finishing order. Classic Stock Car (CSC): #32 - 99 Laps (18.424 ext.); #20 - 96 (11.991); #30 - 92 (10.839); #34 - 90 (22.747); #41 - 88 (19.686); #42 - 79 (9.097). Trans Am (TA): #45 - 103 Laps (19.177 ext.); #2 - 98 (10.707); #7 - 96 (18.872); #78 - 89 (19.491); #98 - 88 (14.043); #1 - 85 (46.977). Modern LeMans (LMP/GT): #12 - 114 Laps (12.772 ext.); #33 - 107 (11.627); #25 - 106 (8.749); #11 - 104 (11.298); #2 - 102 (8.493); #76 - 95 (15.392); #27 - 93 (15.389). CANAM (CA): #11 - 114 Laps (13.497 ext.); #59 - 111 (15.504); #47 - 108 (21.163); #2 - 107 (10.458); #102 - 106 (9.496); ##7 - 105 (13.992); #16 - 77 (13.287). Cheers to those that made it out despite the bad weather!!! Looking forward to R32 XLVI already!

      Started by: Arthur in: R32

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    • 3 weeks ago

      Avatar photof1nutz

    • Monday April 3, 2023 @ 7pm – Wheel Inserts 101 Gents, Now that the worst of covid is behind us and we get back into full blown racing I thought it best to start off slow with something that might be useful for almost everyone. Most of the models we scratch build use wheels that require inserts so it makes sense to start with something so common. And the techniques used to paint and weather inserts can be used for many other parts of a build too. Wheel inserts are usually the last part of any build to be completed. Often they are just given a single splash of paint and then installed as is. But you can use them to help make your model really pop - and should - since it is so easy to do! Here I will do my best to show everyone how I prepare, paint, weather & install inserts. As with most aspects of our hobby there is no right or wrong way. Furthermore, you may have some very helpful tips and tricks to add to our workshop, so please do! During this workshop we'll work on any inserts that are purchased so if you need inserts for a current project you'll get them finished and ready to go! If you bring your wheels I'll show you how I would install them too! NOTE: If a set of inserts need a shot of Tamiya or Chrome please let me know in advance so that I can prime and spray them the night before so that they are already dry for us to work on. Make sure to RSVP your spot in the calendar because space is limited. Thanks for browsing!!!

      Started by: Arthur in: How To – Paint It

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    • 3 weeks ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Goodwood II 2023 Goodwood II After a wonderful day in Kimberly, Ontario, the latest work on Goodwood II is complete. Sinkhole patched, final touchups done, straw bales & tire stacks added and original track structures back in place. Trackmate hardware & software tested and racing surface thoroughly cleaned. A big thank you to Ken for all of his help and to Scott for his generous hospitality as always. [foogallery id="41220"]

      Started by: Arthur in: R32

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    • 3 weeks ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • IROC 2024 Series Gents, Talk is cheap, especially when it comes to an IROC series... but there might still be time to get the ball rolling for 2024 with a new IROC Challenger Series for both constructors and pilots racing at Nova Ridge and Molto VeLoce with the additional home host track too! Interested? The platform will be based on a finished DArt Ferrari 312P (with card interior) that is molded in one of 12 unique colours and using mandatory (and provided) DArt wheels, painted inserts & marked club series urethane tires. Each coloured model will have a distinctive livery. Chassis, configuration, body mounting system, motor, gearing, and anything else are completely open. Build or assemble it yourself or have anyone else do it for you. Maintain it or improve it after each race or don't bother touching it. The choice is yours. So long as you bring your working 312P model you can participate and race all of the models in true IROC fashion by rotating through the lanes (and models). With 12 models on a 4 lane track everyone would compete across three rotations: Every model is assigned to a lane and rotation (1Green, 1Yellow, 1Red, 1Blue, 2G, 2Y, 2R, 2B, 3G, 3Y, 3R or 3B) and stays on that lane throughout; Every participant races through the first rotation (european) until everyone has gone; Second and third rotations are raced until everyone has raced every model for an equal amount of time (usually 3 minutes); Both pilot and model/manufacturer results are recorded (top and lowest finish for each model/manufacturer in every race is dropped as well); On a three lane home track there will be four rotations instead of three. Any home track will have an opportunity to host up to two races. Every participant will provide and maintain their working 312P entry. 'Working' means that it is not only raceable but also meets a minimum lap time of 130% of the pole time, although this could be tweaked. If you don't supply a working 312P entry for that race then you cannot participate in that IROC race. Models will be assigned to a lane and rotation after qualifying so that the fastest models will be raced last and models performing alike will race together as much as is possible. The top three finishing pilots from the previous race will qualify the models. If a model cannot finish a heat then the closest available match will replace it for the duration of the rotation. Other tweaks will need to be made but you get the point... This will be a separate series and not piggyback R32, S32 or S24 racing. The day, time and frequency will be determined by the availability of the participants who purchase/enter models, but it would be preferable to have the series run at least once monthly. The cost of the completed 312P with card interior, four wheels, unmounted & untrued marked tires and painted inserts is $100. An extra set of wheels, unmounted & untrued marked tires and painted inserts is $50... An extra set of wheels, mounted and trued marked tires and painted inserts is $100... Any participant may purchase and enter more than one model and will get to race as often as they have working models entered... (so 3 models then 3x the racing and each scored separately - so it would be possible to have one racer take all three podium places...) Purchased models are owned and kept by the participant. The following molded colours will become available: Green (sold) Yellow (sold) Red (sold) Blue (sold) Charcoal White Orange (sold) Purple Brown/Rust Pink (sold) Baby Blue Liveries will use peel and stick decals and models will not have a clear lacquer or acrylic finish. Completed liveries and wheels/tires/inserts will be available in December, 2023, on a first come first choice basis. Racing will start on Saturday, February 3, 2024.

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 2 months ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Reinforcing the Front End – Mazda 787B The Kyosho Mini-Z hardbodies are quite brittle and impacts to the weak front quarters will likely crack the body just below the inner side of the headlamp casing. This happened to my 787B in what seemed to be a relatively minor tap of an inner border knuckle. Repaired left front quarter (see crack next to the tow hook) between the headlamp casing and the splitter - unpainted.The design of the narrow front body mounting bracket inside the nose of the model should handle head on impacts well enough - but exposes the front quarters. [caption id="attachment_42440" align="aligncenter" width="1280"] Repaired left front quarter (after installing LED light kit). Notice the missing orange paint where the Plast-I-Weld was applied by brush to the underside. The paint on the surface remained fine.[/caption] The MR-03RWD chassis has provision to mount an added front bumper which could extend underneath the front splitter of the body but that's a separate topic - reinforcing the chassis - and for another day. Let me be clear with what I'm doing here - I'm no expert and not advising anyone to do this nor am I claiming that this is a good thing to do - it is simply an experiment that I'm sharing and the verdict will take time but I'm curious and willing to try. I'm relying on my own slot car experiences to see how much I can transfer to this branch of the hobby. That's all - and any comments, suggestions and improvements by reply are most welcome... So... To reinforce the front quarters I used a paper template and cut 1.6mm thick styrene sheet (as best I could) into two pieces designed to fit flush underneath the left and right headlamp casings. I then used Flex-I-File Plast-I-Weld applied liberally to bond the styrene to the bottom of the headlamp casings and along the edges butting the mounting box, the front and the sides. Be careful not to flood the headlamp casings or your clear lens covers will get damaged and the paint may bleed. Better yet, remove the lenses but don't gum up the tab openings with any adhesive. Flex-I-File's Plast-I-Weld Liquid Weld Satisfied with the strength of the weld so far I applied a thick filet of 5 minute two part epoxy to reinforce the quarters and fill the space above the mounting box. Haven't yet but I could paint the reinforced areas with flat black acrylic to make them a little prettier. Notice how the front white body mount (in white plastic) fits just inside the box and basically floats - and all of the momentum from any frontal impact of the body transfers to the white body mount (and chassis) through the two very small slightly wider 'tabs' extending just the width of that box. In any event, the extra styrene and epoxy added just 4.4g to the body - a small tradeoff for the piece of mind I now have. Weight of the Mazda 787B body (with light kit installed) before and after reinforcing the front end. [caption id="attachment_42435" align="alignleft" width="384"] Weight of the Mazda 787B Body with Light Kit[/caption] [caption id="attachment_42562" align="alignright" width="270"] Weight of the Mazda 787B body with light kit after reinforcing the front quarters.[/caption] My goal was to spread any minor impacts at the quarters to the whole front end of the body which I hope this does. Time will tell. Up next - an invisible (or discreet) front chassis bumper...

      Started by: Arthur in: Helpful Mini-Z Tips, Tricks & Hacks

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    • 3 months ago

      Arthur

    • Pre-War Streamliner (PGP+) Pre-War Streamliner (PGP+) v1.0 Eligible Hard Body Models: Any model that competed in a state or club sanctioned road, rally, endurance race or a grand prix between the years 1900 through to 1939 anywhere in the world; Low Power BWMS050 Motor Only; Any Inline Chassis; Wheels: Must not exceed 16.5 mm in diameter and 5.5 mm in width; Tires: DArt urethane club series (DA0210 recommended). Tires must not exceed 23 mm in diameter; and Maximum Width: 51mm (actually 50.8 mm – excluding fenders or insert detail which may extend beyond).

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 5 months ago

      Arthur

    • Boulevard Cruiser (BC) Boulevard Cruiser (BC) v1.0 Eligible Hard Body Models: Any 1955 through 1963 full size American car. Gunze, Sangyo, Revell and AMT brands are highly recommended. Personalized licence plates are strongly encouraged while race numbers are not necessary (and in fact discouraged). Motor: BWNC1 Chassis: Any in any configuration Front and Rear Tires: Any DArt Club Series Urethane Tire [DArt D7 (black or white walls) strongly recommended]

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 1 year ago

      Arthur

    • Indy Roadster (IR) Indy Roadster (IR) v1.0 Eligible Hard Body Models: Any true, front engined roadster that tested, registered, qualified or participated in any Indy 500 race from 1950 onwards. Eligible Liveries: Authentic liveries are encouraged but fantasy liveries that maintain a look (paint colours, fonts and graphics) representative of the period that they raced are allowed. Motor: BWMS050. Chassis: Any inline front motor configuration where the complete motor 'can' is forward of the base of the windscreen. The motor may be offset. The motor shaft extension may use additional bushings/bearings and be directly attached to the motor shaft with any flexible coupling (such as a spring or soft tubing) or be offset using any gearing. Minimum Weight: 80g Maximum Overall Width: 54mm Tires: Any sized DArt Club Series urethane tires with a reasonable scale appearance. [DArt D7.5 strongly recommended]

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 1 year ago

      Arthur

    • CANAM (CA) CAN AM (CA) v5.0 Eligible Models: Any hard body provided the model represents a Can Am car which ran at two sanctioned CAN AM races at different tracks in any year between 1966 through 1974 (coupes excluded) Rear Wheels: minimum 14mm in diameter Rear Tires: Any DArt Club Series Urethane Tire (NC0101 and D11 recommended, D13 STRONGLY recommended) Front Tires: Stock or any DArt Club Series

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 1 year ago

      Arthur

    • 1950’s Grand Prix (50GP) 1950's Grand Prix (50GP) v5.0 Eligible Models: Any hard body model representing a Grand Prix car which competed between 1950 and 1960, typically with engines in front of the driver Low Power Motor: BWA BWNC1, BWMS050, Vanski FF050 or Ninco NC1 Wheels: maximum 14mm in diameter x 6mm in width Tires: any DArt ‘Club’ series urethane replacement tire (SC0120 and SC0120F highly recommended) Overall maximum width: 50.8mm

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 1 year ago

      Arthur

    • Modern F1 (F1) Modern F1 (F1) v5.0 Eligible Models: Any 'stock' modern Scalextric (2000 and newer) F1 model Motor - must be a 'stock' Scalextric S-can or slim motor - whichever came with the model Maximum overall width not to exceed 58mm Optional Modifications: Guide - may be replaced by any 1:32 guide and adapter Rear Wheels – any 12mm (or smaller) wheel may be used - rear suspension detail may be modified to accommodate wheels Rear Tires - any DArt ‘Club’ series urethane replacement tire Front Tires - 'stock' or any DArt 'Club' series urethane replacement tire Rear Axle - may be replaced by a solid axle Bushings - rear nylon/plastic bushings may be replaced with bronze/oilite bushings Weight - may be added anywhere to the chassis or body provided it is concealed by the body - no weight may be added underneath the front wing or underneath the chassis Spacers/Washers – may be used on the rear axle (inboard or outboard) and on the front axle (outboard only) Gearing - stock gears may be replaced by any 27T crown gear together with a 9T pinion or any 24T crown gear together with an 8T pinion Chassis Bracing – The portion from the driver to the rear of the chassis may be braced or strengthened using any material but both chassis and any modification thereto must remain unpainted and not concealed by any substance so that any such modification is clearly visible if the body is removed. Bodies and chassis may not be cut or altered to accommodate bracing

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 1 year ago

      Arthur

    • Classic Stock Car (CSC) Classic Stock Car (CSC) v5.0 Eligible Models: Any hard body provided the model represents a hard top stock car which competed in the 1960's (plus or minus 3 years). All bodies must contain a clear plastic front windshield, rear window and all quarter windows (driver and passenger door windows may be removed) Motor: BWA BWNC1 Wheels: Maximum 14mm diameter Front and Rear Tires: Any DArt Club Series Tire [DArt D8 or D9 strongly recommended] Minimum overall weight of 100g.

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 1 year ago

      Arthur

    • Modern LeMans P/GT (LMP) Modern LeMans P/GT (LMP) v5.0 Eligible Models: Any hard body modern (1995 or newer) era model that competed at Le Mans regardless of designation or class Rear Wheels: Minimum 14mm diameter (or larger) Rear Tires: DArt Club Series (D11 recommended) Front Tires: Stock or any DArt Club Series Working head/tail lights NOT required

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 1 year ago

      Arthur

    • Ferrari 246 SP Dino The sharknose Grand Prix car evolved in the early 60's at the same time as the sportscar. Racing in 1961 and 1962 the Ferrari 246 SP achieved some success. Here is Rodriquez in the Targa. I opted to fashion his french team mate. I started with the DArt body kit. I planned to mate this kit to an ASS (A Simple Sled) chassis. So far so good...

      Started by: Arthur in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 1 year ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Hot Rod (HR) Hot Rod (HR) v5.0 Eligible Models: Any model with or without fenders; Chassis: Any inline chassis; Motor: BWMS050; Tires: Any size DArt Club Series urethane tire (ie. SC0120 (rear) & SC0120F (front) recommended); Maximum width of front and rear rolling assemblies (track) is 50.8mm but bodies/fenders may be wider; and At least one racing number.

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 2 years ago

      Arthur

    • 3.0L LeMans (3LM) 3.0L LeMans (3LM) v5.0 Eligible Models: Any hard body open cockpit prototype that competed between 1972 through 1977 in an endurance race such as LeMans (as raced with headlights) Rear Tires: DArt Club Series (NC0101 or D11 recommended) Front Tires: Stock or any DArt Club Series Working head/tail lights NOT required

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 2 years ago

      Arthur

    • Classic LeMans (CLM) Classic LeMans (CLM) v5.0 Eligible Models: Scalextric, Fly and SRC sidewinder 'Prototype' models which competed at Le Mans between 1965 through 1971 Motor - 'Stock' Scalextric, Fly, SRC or equivalent (with 11x36 gearing) Rear Tires: DArt Club Series (FL0201 or NC0101 Urethane Tires recommended) Front Tires: Stock or any DArt Club Series Minimum overall weight of 80g Optional modifications: Wheels - front and back may be replaced with 14mm wheels - Inserts or wheel detail to match the original car Bushings - rear nylon/plastic bushings may be replaced with bronze/oilite bushings Axles & Front Pins - may be replaced with solid axles (front & rear) or hollow axle (front) to facilitate 'free spinning' Gearing - stock gears may be replaced with any 11T pinion and any 36T crown

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 2 years ago

      Arthur

    • Trans Am (TA) Trans Am (TA) v5.0 Eligible Models: Sidewinder Scalextric and Pioneer Trans Am models Motor: ‘Stock’ Pioneer or Scalextric (with 11x36 gearing) Rear Tires: DArt Club Series (SC0801 Urethane Tires recommended) Front Tires: Stock or any DArt Club Series (SC0801F Urethane Tires recommended) Minimum overall weight of 85g Optional modifications: Guide - may be replaced by any 1:32 guide together with any guide adapter Wheels - front and back may be replaced by any 14mm aluminium wheel. Inserts are to be period correct and resemble original car Axles - may be replaced with solid axles (front & rear) or hollow axle (front) to facilitate 'free spinning') Bushings - rear nylon/plastic bushings may be replaced with bronze/oilite bushings Gearing - any 36T spur gear may be used together with any manufacturer 11T pinion

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 2 years ago

      Arthur

    • 1950’s Endurance Sportscar (50SP) 1950's Endurance Sportscar (50SP) v5.0 Eligible Models or Hard Bodies: Any 1950's era Sportscar (production or prototype) that competed in an endurance race between 1950 and 1959 lasting at minimum 6 hours, 1000 kilometers or over multiple stages spanning several days; Low Power Motor: BWA BWNC1, Ninco NC1, Ninco NC8, BWA BWMS050 or Vanski FF050; Front and Rear Tires: Any DArt Club Series Urethane Tires; Maximum width of body not to exceed 57mm; Minimum overall weight of 75g.

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 2 years ago

      Arthur

    • 1960’s Endurance Sportscar (60SP) 1960's Endurance Sportscar (60SP) v5.0 Eligible Models or Hard Bodies: Any 1960's era Sportscar (production or prototype) that competed in an endurance race between 1960 and 1969 lasting at minimum 6 hours, 1000 kilometers or over multiple stages spanning several days; Low Power Motor: BWA BWNC1, Ninco NC1, Ninco NC8, BWA BWMS050 or Vanski FF050; Front and Rear Tires: Any DArt Club Series Urethane Tires; Maximum width of body not to exceed 57mm; Minimum overall weight of 75g.

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 2 years ago

      Arthur

    • Group 5 (G5) Group 5 (G5) v5.0 Eligible Models: Any Sideways brand Anglewinder ‘Group 5’ model; Motor: ‘Stock’ Sideways plain yellow wrapper; Rear Tires: Any DArt Club Series Urethane Tire [DArt D11 strongly recommended]; Minimum overall weight of 84g; Optional modifications: Any parts that come standard on any currently eligible model may be used or incorporated into older eligible models (ie. pods, etc.). Any aftermarket washers permitted.

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 2 years ago

      Arthur

    • Group C (GCI) Group C (GCI) v5.0 Eligible Models: Any Slot.It brand inline Group 'C' or 'IMSA' model; ‘Stock’ parts only or identical plastic/resin replacements; Motor: ‘Stock’ White or Orange endbell Slot.It motor; Rear Tires: DArt Club Series D11 or SI0201 Urethane Tires; Minimum overall weight of 80g; Optional modifications: Any Slot.It parts that come standard on any currently eligible model may be used or incorporated into older eligible models (ie. offset pods and offset crown gears, larger diameter wheels, screws with metal washers, set screws and spacers for aligning front axles, etc.). Any aftermarket washers permitted.

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 2 years ago

      Arthur

    • NASCAR (NC) NASCAR (NC) v5.0 Eligible Models: Scalextric brand Sidewinder NASCAR (Car of Yesterday or Car of Tomorrow); Stock parts only or identical plastic/resin replacements; Rear Tires: DArt Club Series SC0705 Urethane Tires; Front Tires: Stock Front Tires or DArt Club Series SC0705 urethane tires.

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

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    • 2 years ago

      Arthur

    • Auto Union Type D – Dart Kit For this build, I have used the recently released Dart kit of the Auto Union Type D.  As usual, the quality of the kit is second to none and it comes with two driver busts and seat options, large wired inserts and a long styrene tube with two brass push in threaded inserts to be installed as body posts where needed. I decided to mate the body with an aluminium chassis (KRZ Design) that I made specifically for this model.  The BWA 14k ff motor is glued onto the chassis with 5 minute epoxy.  I decided to use wired wheels that were purchased from Pendle. You will note that there is the appearance of significant tire degradation to the front wheels on this model-it wasn't due to the photo taken after a race.  I'll be replacing these rubber tires that came with the wheels with Dart urethane that will be trued to the same size. The model as shown in the photos includes the smaller half bust that came with the kit but it is evident that this option requires a thick seat cushion otherwise the driver can barely see over the hood.  I'll be replacing the half bust with a modified full body to achieve the most realistic result. The model runs very well, and is competitive, with my Auto Union Type C and Mercedes Benz W125.  Based on early test results, this type D outpaces the other two. A new entry for the next Coppa D PGP+ race with Tazio Nuvolari behind the wheel to join Bernd Rosemeyer in the type C and Rudolf Caracciola in the W125. Thanks for looking.

      Started by: Avatar photoJMSracer in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 2 years ago

      Avatar photoJMSracer

    • 1936 Auto Union Type C – #4 Bernd Rosemeyer This is a PGP+ class eligible model for our Pre War Coppa D'oro series. The main restrictions for this class (apart from the mandated motor) are a maximum track of 50.8mm (excluding inserts which may extend beyond) and maximum tire diameter of 23mm. Of course all tires must be DArt club series urethanes and wheels cannot exceed 16.5mm in diameter nor be wider than 5.5mm... so armed with that info we can begin building something eligible...The basis for this build was the DArt Auto Union C Type body kit with a few modifications and upgrades. As always I begin with the wheels which I modified by turning down a set of 4 DArt DA16x9XL alloy wheels. I carefully mounted 4 DA0210 club series tires using clear Gorilla Glue after scuffing the outer rim surface and let them dry overnight before truing with my Hudy. Using the truer I also narrowed the front tires using a sharp Xacto knife. After sorting the overall tire diameters I gathered some small bushings and the rest of the parts needed including the low power BWMS050 motor with a 1.5mm 10T pinion. Initially I also opted for an aftermarket 23T crown gear but then went with the orange 25T gear instead after initial testing. I opted for a simple torsion chassis using a combination of piano wire and brass. The front end would use stub axles made from piano wire with DuBro No2 steel washers soldered on one end. Because the washers were too large in diameter they needed to be ground down to fit within my front axle braces. I also fabricated the motor mount and guide sleeve. After sanding all of the parts I soldered the rear end together. Then I made the front section. The front and rear sections are only held together with piano wire tabs that slide inside a small brass tube. By gently pulling them apart (and out of the tube) you can separate the front and rear halves of the chassis which allows for convenient cleaning and maintenance. The wire tension is enough to hold it in place. Before final re-assembly I made sure to clean any flux residue before applying a blackening treatment to all of the chassis parts using a disposable dollar store brush. Make sure you are happy with the chassis - because after you apply the blackening chemical treatment to the steel you won't be able to solder anything to it. While the steel does turn black the brass is more stubborn and will only give you an antique look at best - but I still prefer this to painting anyday - and I prefer to take away the shine of brass (or steel) especially on exposed parts that don't reflect the real thing. I painted the wire wheel inserts that came with the kit and after final assembly I glued them in place using white glue. The assembled chassis weighs in at 45.7g.. I wanted to use as much of a complete pilot and interior so I modified the original body by opening up the cockpit. I also extended the cockpit slightly by removing material up to the recess for the original windscreen (which I would replace with a more detailed windscreen from the DArt Type D body kit).The painted and washed body shell (without interior and exterior detail) now weighs 9.6g. Decals which I printed on clear Testor's decal sheeting were applied. I also used Micro Mark decals for the front grill detail. Then I made firewalls which could be glued in place using thin styrene sheeting. Other upgraded parts included a pilot figure, head, steering wheel, shifter and interior side panels from the DArt D Type body kit, plus DArt button radiator cap and DArt fuel cap. After painting the body silver I added a black wash using Tamiya flat black acrylic paint diluted with Tamiya acrylic thinner to bring out more detail where I wanted it. If using the acrylic thinner (which is alcohol based) only apply carefully where you want it and let it pool and dry to give the desired effect. Quickly wick away any wash that creeps where you don't want it since the longer it remains the harder it will be to clean away. Once it is dry it is impossible to remove easily - you'll need to polish it out then. I would do the interior first. I would use clear 5 minute epoxy to fix everything in place, starting with the firewalls. Then came the seat back (minus head rest) and dashboard. While that dried I removed the lower portion of the pilot's legs and sanded away the underside of his thighs to give me as much clearance underneath as possible. Luckily I did not need to shrink his torso. Once satisfied with the fit (and clearance) of the torso/legs I glued the pilot arms to the torso and placed the steering wheel in his hands and let dry. [I trimmed the steering wheel shaft since I never fix the steering wheel to the dashboard - I always leave it in the pilot's hands - which I find much easier to work with.] Then I glued the pilot's body to the seat and let that dry. Then the side panels were fixed in place and finally the shifter was added. The interior was done. I could add a styrene piece underneath his legs to finish the interior but I'll leave that alone for now. [Turns out the blackened chassis works nicely underneath so I decided to not bother adding a floor.] Exterior details were then added. The windscreen was second last - after hand drilling a pair of holes to fix it in place. Finally a solid aluminium wire was added to the rear of the body through another small hole hand drilled. The completed body now weighs 12.9g. Not bad!Add two screws and four urethane washers (2 for some body float and 2 underneath the head of each screw (to prevent the screws from backing out) and our completed model weighs in at 59 g.The original crown gear performed just fine when the chassis alone was tested (before the body was completed) but as fate would have it would fail on the first lap in its debut... but replaced and tested the model is very quick and this chassis shows lots of promise for 2022.Happy to answer any questions. If you would like to upgrade any parts on your C Type (like I did) drop me a line... Cheers! [foogallery id="20971"]

      Started by: Arthur in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 2 years ago

      Avatar photoJohnnySlots

    • DArt A Simple Sled (ASS) Chassis Demand for a simple and cost effective low power motored chassis for sportscars and classic stock cars is surprising. This DArt ASS Chassis specifically for NC1 or BWNC1 motors seems to fit the bill nicely. Several regularly ask for this chassis. I do plan to upgrade it but eventually... stay tuned. In the meantime take care to set up your DArt ASS chassis properly - use a jig and glue everything in place - it will reward you in no time. It took me about an hour to assemble. First off, if your chassis is slightly bent, warped or twisted you can place it on a flat ceramic block (or tile, or anything else that is flat) and hold it in place with rubber bands... run hot water over it - then cold - this will straighten the plastic/resin... Make sure to clean off any excess flashing around the parts before assembling. Drill out the front axle holders using a hand chuck. It is easier to make them oversized and then set your brass tube using 5 minute epoxy. If you are very skilled you can drill out both front axle arms and upper and lower set screw holes to allow independent adjustment of your front axle after the chassis is built. I don't bother going that far though. Measure the axle distances and cut the front tongue to accommodate your wheelbase then epoxy in place and if you have them use screws and washers to help fix the tongue in place. Next glue in your motor (after pushing/soldering on your pinion - make sure to cut your motor shaft if will not be centering your rear axle using the crown gear channel). Then glue in your rear bushings or bearings. Then glue in some bracing using 5 minute epoxy and .055 piano wire. NOTE: The lower brace was glued in after the motor but before the bushings/bearings... Here's what I did to the rear end of my DArt ASS Chassis.... For the front end I set my axle, then glued my brass tube in place with 5 minute epoxy... notice here I didn't bother using any set screws for height adjustment. Balsa wood glued to the underside of the shell provides the best and lightest way to secure the chassis to the body using 2-56 screws with brass inserts... Done!!! And it runs as good as any simple sled should... Thanks for your looking!

      Started by: Arthur in: Class Eligible Bits & Pieces

    • 2
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    • 2 years ago

      Arthur

    • 3D printed Indy Roadster chassis I thought I would let everyone know about my progress in designing, building and testing a 3D printed chassis for our Indy Roadster class. For nostalgia's sake I've been working on an Eldon Indy Roadster which  roughly represents the Watson Roadster of the time.   As my printer has a very small bed the chassis had to be made in two pieces and aligned with piano wire pins, this does give the advantage of a wheelbase that will adjust to most roadster bodies. . The whole process has helped me use up any spare time that I thought I had as I had to diagnose and partially rebuild my printer ( each new part took a month to arrive and I didn't get it all figured out the first or even the second time) and then had to start learning Fusion 360 in order to make the kinds of designs I was interested in. I can't tell you how many iterations I printed that didn't fit the way I was expecting before I realized that my thumb had been hitting the reset button on my digital calipers. I am getting close. Here's the latest test fitting. One of the greatest design challenges was getting the ff050 completely ahead of  the edge of the cowling in order to comply with the spirit of a front motored build. The problem is that those tiny slim line motors are proportionately bigger than a V16 and its tough to get them into the space that originally had a 4 cylinder. Now I'm going to order axles, gears, bearings and a guide to make sure of my final measurements. In the meantime I'm going to start working on the body again. I hope that by this fall we can have an in person debut of the Indy roadster class. I look forward to seeing all your designs. Cheers Steve

      Started by: Avatar photoracer68 in: Class Eligible Bits & Pieces

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    • 2 years ago

      Avatar photoDB

    • Rebuilding Goodwood Sadly, after many many years of service in Beaverton, ON, Goodwood was taken apart earlier this past summer after the passing of owner John F. last year. Thankfully Goodwood found a new owner and is now being resurrected in another beautiful Ontario location. I was happy to take up the challenge of helping move this track to its new home. After months in storage on several skids the pieces survived, albeit some badly warped, but all intact. Since the track was cut into 6 sections (using a 1/8" bit in my trusty router) reassembling the track sections would be straightforward just as it had been built - align, glue, clamp and next...The front straight was quite warped but with a little luck and some help from gravity it came about. This was the first time I had ever tried to straighten a piece of mdf... and it proved to be a much bigger challenge than even the corkscrew of Bass-Seca.Since the reattached sections had fairly tight joints filling, sanding, painting and re-taping could be avoided. After adding patches over the copper joints, a little paint touch up to the track surface and the black borders - all of the original wiring and electronics were connected and tested. At first the overhead gantry wasn't getting any power but after cleaning and reconnecting the socket everything worked as before and we were in business to run some test laps!After thorough testing and many several 100's of laps she is ready to go with just scenery to finish (and rollers to be added)... it took a couple of days to get this far, perhaps a few more to get the rest finished - stay tuned...

      Started by: Arthur in: Local Slot Car Groups

    • 1
    • 0
    • 2 years ago

      Arthur

    • Mandarin Monsoon – 1930 Ford Model ‘A’ Pickup The Mandarin Monsoon Hot Rod was made using a Life-Like Hobby Kits 1930 Ford Model 'A' Pickup truck body, BWMS050 motor with 10 x 23 inline gearing, BWA 14 x 5mm wheels, DArt whitewall tires & inserts and other DArt parts, including gas cap & rear transmission detail. The pilot is also DArt. Rear bed has removable mahogany boards. No pickup would be complete without a trailer hitch. This model 'A' also features a Ferrari V8 under the bed...  The chassis is a torsion chassis from piano wire and brass. The body is mounted using a slide in front pin and two wire supports at the rear which clip in place. Exposed suspension areas were chemically treated with Gun Blue. With little torque to worry about the motor was simply epoxied in place. This chassis also uses old school brass tubing in lieu of bearings or bushings. Rear end detail includes a few hand made components. Exhaust pipes are polished aluminium tube. Cheers!

      Started by: Arthur in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 3 years ago

      Luis Meza

    • D'Art Porsche RS61 We recently had a workshop where 3-bodies were painted as part of the demonstration. With the Player's 200 coming up. The RS61 fits in perfectly with the field of cars. My livery might be fantasy. But the colour is not. Art. Thank you very kindly. It was a lot of fun to build a chassis for this body kit. :yes: I still need to complete the body and details. But it's ready to run so to speak. :good: The class is SP+.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 4 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • D'Art Porsche 550 Spyder I painted this car last July. The body should be safe to handle by now. Someone suggested I expand my build threads so others can learn how to duplicate my mistakes. Careful what you wish for.   I measured the wheelbase and mapped out the chassis. Then I installed axle spacers on all 4-corners to help figure out the track width as well as center the chassis to the body when I glue in the body posts. I will remove the rear axle spacers after cutting the axles to length on final assembly. The front axle spacers remain in place to keep the independent wheels centered. 5mm spacing per corner was just right for this combination of parts. The chassis lays down nicely in the body. The tires are touching the inside of the top of the fenders at this point. But avoid the sides of the fenders. The build is self-slamming. I used to scratch my head on how to figure out the length of the posts. Toothpicks are a handy measuring device. I'm looking forward to seeing this car run. This will be the lowest car I've ever built. If this car runs half as good as the RS61? It will be a blast to drive! :yahoo:

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 4 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

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