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    • 1953 Carrera Panamericana winner       Fangio and Bronzoni won the 1953 Carrera Panamericana in their number 36 D24 Lancia. The slow motor classes are some of my favorites so I thought I'd give o'l number 36 a try. When finished this car should qualify for both our 50's sports car and our Carrera Panamericana classes. The body is 3D printed in Elegoo ABS like resin from a file I purchased online. The chassis was designed and printed by me in PLA+ on my FDM printer. The body weighs 10.5 grams and the chassis adds another 5. The D24 has very little front overhang, making designing the chassis and the location of the various front end components a challenge. I will add the body posts and source the images for making the decals next. Cheers Steve  

      Started by: Avatar photoracer68 in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 1 year ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • 1963 Watson Special – Front Motor Indy Roadster Lots of discussion prior to the pandemic led to the beginning of an Indy Roadster class using a low power motor in an inline front motor configuration. In that spirit this is my build based on a 1:32 AMT kit for a 1963 Watson Special. This kit was the foundation for the DArt body kit which is what I am using for this build. The original kit and all of the parts, including decals: The DArt body kit which will be used: First things first - sorting out the wheels and tires. I opted to use RS Slot 15x7mm (14x7mm) insert wheels with DArt D7.5 tires mounted front and back. I trued down the fronts a little smaller. The rears were trued to a diameter of 25mm and the fronts to 23.3mm... I used the setup blocks as pictured when setting up my jig. Now time to start on the chassis using assorted piano wire and brass pieces...  This is my version of a two piece rotating torsion chassis. The motor is an extension of the rear end of the chassis even though it sits above the front section. A separate piece of piano wire wrapped around the guide tube will hold the two halves together after I solder the tips in place just ahead of the rear end. Now that the basic chassis is complete - you can see it has stubs for the front wheels - we can begin assembly, starting with the motor and driveshaft. Lots of trial fitting went into positioning the braces that will hold the motor shaft extension bushing. I only want to barely touch that bushing with my soldering iron to fix it in place after the motor is installed for the final time - then carefully clean away any acid flux and oil liberally. Time to trial fit the shell. I chose not to offset the body (or chassis) since we'll be running these on road courses. I'm happy with the overall stance of this chassis and body so time to trial fit the interior to provide clearance for the drive shaft/pinion. I hope to conceal the driveshaft under the pilot's left leg but I may need to improvise... we'll see... stay tuned!    

      Started by: Arthur in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 1 year ago

      Avatar photoPorsche911

    • 1963 Indy Roadster I found a few links that folks might find interesting when building the car. It is not a slot car build but won first place at the 2016 IPMS Nationals in SC. Parnelli Jones's 1963 Indy 500 Winning Watson Roadster - Cars, Trucks, & Motorcycles - IPMS/USA Forums (ipmsusa3.org) The second link is of a Facebook page (embedded in first link), with step by step pictures with comments when you click on the picture. I guess you need to be on FB to see.  The interesting thing I liked is it helped locating where bits go plus it identified the paint colors to use for the Watson Livery. Don't know if it is helpful to anyone but I found it helped me. My model is coming along.  I am going for a Watson Livery.  Mica Blue nose and White Pearl body, a little ambitious for me but what the heck.  I ordered decals and a paint mask to help me along.  The chassis I built 18 months ago for a STP Nova body but was never happy with the body.  It fits the Watson with minimal adjustments. The chassis wheelbase is a touch long (1/4inch) as you will notice in the picture.   So far the car is primed, interior glued in and driver fitted but not glued nor detail painted.                                 

      Started by: Avatar photoDB in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 2 years ago

      Luis Meza

    • 1933 Alfa Romeo 8c 2300 From the original Airfix Model Kit: If you can't read the fine print here it is: "Alfa-Romeo, one of the most famous of the Italian car companies and still one of the foremost manufacturers of high performance cars, started in 1907 building the Darracq under licence. After the First World War they introduced their own very successful series of sports and racing cars. The 1933 8C was a development of the 'Monza' racer of 1931 which won at Le Mans in 1931, 1932, 1933 and 1934 and this car was beaten into second place in 1935. The low four-seater sports body is typical of its era and the 2,336 c.c. supercharged twin overhead camshaft engine with its eight cylinders in line is also typical of the period. This model is based upon the car owned by the late Mike Hawthorn." So after doing a little research I decided that I would model a fantasy period livery in the same colour scheme as this 1:1 survivor (which is an 8c 2300 LM - with the round streamlined lid covering the spare tire(s)). A different version than the one I am building but I do like the extra single windscreens and since there were so many variants of this car that raced I will incorporate a pair of them on my model as well and leave the rest as is, including the uncovered spare tire. Racing number and pilot can be decided later... I do plan to paint the numbers in black. So after looking over everything I decided to start assembling (and welding) what I should in order to be able to sort out the dimensions for the chassis keeping in mind that everything must still be painted - so not everything can be assembled until after paint - and it is first mated to the chassis. I decided to leave the rear fenders separate since I wouldn't be able to remove the body from the frame with them welded in place. So they along with the headlamps and other various bits will be painted separately and then epoxied together, as will the frame to the body. I cut a channel into the floor to accommodate a mid inline 'low power' slim can motor and will decide later if it will be covered with styrene or a flexible piece of metallic plastic sheet. A front motor build would be nice but they are too much work and I would still need to cut away a portion of the interior - so why bother. Stock frame/suspension pieces such as leaf springs will be added to the frame or chassis after the chassis is built. Front axle/assembly will be determined on the fly as I build the chassis - I may use independent pins for each front wheel but we'll see. In any event I plan to use and incorporate the following parts into this build: BWMS050 motor w/10t true pitch pinion & 23t slot.it crown; Slot.It round 'self centering' bushings with PM axles & spacers/washers (I like the very small size of these bushings); Scalextric 'stock' round guide with quick change plate & Slot.It braid; DArt wheels, tires & inserts plus DArt windscreens & pilot; and Various K&B brass stock & wire. I was thinking about adding LED head and tail lights but that might be too ambitious right now - hopefully there is plenty of time in the future... Next Step: Building the Chassis (stay tuned...)

      Started by: Arthur in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 19
    • 2 years ago

      Arthur

    • 3D printed Indy Roadster chassis I thought I would let everyone know about my progress in designing, building and testing a 3D printed chassis for our Indy Roadster class. For nostalgia's sake I've been working on an Eldon Indy Roadster which  roughly represents the Watson Roadster of the time.   As my printer has a very small bed the chassis had to be made in two pieces and aligned with piano wire pins, this does give the advantage of a wheelbase that will adjust to most roadster bodies. . The whole process has helped me use up any spare time that I thought I had as I had to diagnose and partially rebuild my printer ( each new part took a month to arrive and I didn't get it all figured out the first or even the second time) and then had to start learning Fusion 360 in order to make the kinds of designs I was interested in. I can't tell you how many iterations I printed that didn't fit the way I was expecting before I realized that my thumb had been hitting the reset button on my digital calipers. I am getting close. Here's the latest test fitting. One of the greatest design challenges was getting the ff050 completely ahead of  the edge of the cowling in order to comply with the spirit of a front motored build. The problem is that those tiny slim line motors are proportionately bigger than a V16 and its tough to get them into the space that originally had a 4 cylinder. Now I'm going to order axles, gears, bearings and a guide to make sure of my final measurements. In the meantime I'm going to start working on the body again. I hope that by this fall we can have an in person debut of the Indy roadster class. I look forward to seeing all your designs. Cheers Steve

      Started by: Avatar photoracer68 in: Class Eligible Bits & Pieces

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    • 2 years ago

      Avatar photoDB

    • New User Accounts & Editing New Forum Topics and Replies… Gents, In response to several inquiries about why some topics or replies aren't posted or temporarily disappear without explanation I thought it best and most efficient to provide some background information about new member accounts and how new forum topics or replies can be edited. All new forum members must have their first new topic AND their first new reply approved by a super moderator prior to either being posted. After a new member has had their first reply approved all of their subsequent replies will be automatically posted.  After a new member has had their first topic approved all of their subsequent topics will be automatically posted. So even if your first topic was approved and you may post new topics automatically, your first reply to any topic will still need approval... They are treated independently. ALL members may edit their own topics and replies within 30 minutes of posting that topic or reply. Edits thereafter may only be made by the super moderator and only then in exceptional circumstances. If a new member's first topic or first reply is approved and then posted but they choose to edit that previously approved first topic or first reply within 30 minutes of it being posted then it again must be approved since it is treated as a new (and first) topic or reply. This will mean that it will disappear pending approval and any replies regardless of who they are from will receive error messages. The role of the moderator is to perform general forum housekeeping, to keep topics and replies on point and to ensure that offensive or inappropriate topics are dealt with accordingly. Moderators are not proof readers. Over the last several weeks up to and including yesterday experiments with some of the settings in our forums area may have at certain times provided or taken away opportunities to edit new topics and replies so please don't dwell on your own personal experience over that period. The settings mentioned above are now in place and should remain so for the long haul. I hope this helps...

      Started by: Arthur in: Website Information

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    • 2 years ago

      Arthur

    • 2021 Outside Track Optimism Despite the fact that our regional governments were recently ambushed and are scrambling with no coherent plan to immunize, our Ontario government passed the buck while deferring to regional medical officers in their ivory towers, and our fearless entitled drama queen Justin spouts more bullshit while ensuring he stands by our country last in G7 and worse than 40th in global vaccines to date I hope - I sincerely hope - we'll be safe by later this year. Given our government's track record now I don't believe I'll receive a vaccine until next winter. I hope the rest of you remain more optimistic - at least for your own sanity... as such... An outdoor track may be the only place we might race safely later this year/fall. Help me with your suggestions as far as how many lanes, how long, how easily transported - I guess I'm asking how many of you might participate on a strictly outdoor venue/track later this summer and fall. If proxy participation is anything to go by I am happy not to waste my time - but again I must ask.

      Started by: Arthur in: R32

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    • 2 years ago

      Avatar photoJMSracer

    • Taking Apart Scalextric GP When the Scalextric Legends series became available, I recall people saying that they had a hard time taking them apart to remove the magnets, as needed for participation in proxy races on plastic track. Of the Lotus49 versions, the Lotus72 versions, the Eagle T1G Weslake, and the Tyrrell 002/003, it turns out that the Tyrrell is the most difficult to open and take apart. This is because of the ‘clamshell body’ as well as the way the rear suspension is built, both factors being different from the other models in the series. I needed to take apart my Tyrrell in order to see what was causing the irregular power loss, and repair it. I also wanted to convert to a regular guide keel. I later found that the left rear rim is wobbling slightly, and the gear mesh is rough from 8.5V all the way past 15V.   Since the other models in the series are easier to take apart, a description for the Tyrrell should cover those as well.  [ I will outline some of the differences as they arise in the discussion, and provide some suggestions. ]  Besides repair, it’s also useful to open these cars first if you are considering a scratch-built chassis. Two items to note:  Even within a particular model, the cementing of the connection joints may be different from one sample to another and therefore may separate at a different junction. Because of the nature of these bodies and the intricate suspensions, in order to take them apart certain cemented joints may have to be broken apart and the tabs may break in the process.   A.  I would remove the rear wing and all tires, since they obstruct some of the joints you will be working on. The first main stage in opening these bodies starts with removing the 5 screws under the base plate. In the case of the Tyrell, this will loosen the seam between the top and bottom sections of the clamshell body. Now, slowly and carefully lift the front cowling, (top half, in front of the engine). This should eventually loosen and lift off.  That's the easy stage, completed.   As shown in the photo, you now have the driver, cockpit, guide keel, and front suspension open. This will allow replacement or repair of the guide keel, and you can re-assemble the car if no other work is needed. (I could now see that my red lead wire was frayed and must have finally broken; very fine wires, with little flex.)   B.  If you decide to go further, the second main stage of separation starts with holding both front rims in one hand; twist the front assembly slightly. Try to identify the seam joints in the front suspension – see which joints are cemented and which are just dry contact. In the case of the Tyrrell, there is U-shaped tab joint on the bottom of the front suspension assembly. That joint is cemented and must be carefully loosened by twisting, prying, making a partial cut through it, wedging with a tiny chisel blade (one of the optional Exacto knife blades), or by any other careful means that comes to mind.  If it is strongly cemented together, you may have to do a partial cut then break the seam – it can be easily cemented back together at re-assembly. (In my sample, the cemented seam separated quite well using the above methods, and it stayed intact for re-assembly. The tops of the springs were in dry contact.)   Once those bottom joints are loosened, the whole front assembly, rims, axles, top half of the suspension, link-plate to the instrument cluster and steering wheel, can all be lifted up off the car. [ After a grueling race, you may need to carefully pry the driver’s hands off the steering wheel! ]   As shown in the photo, unlike the other cars in the series, the Tyrrell has stub axles, so you would have to take things apart up to this stage if you were to change the plastic front rims to aluminum ones.   [ Comparison with the other models:  Judging from the joint seams on the other cars, it appears that: In the case of the Lotus49, the whole front suspension assembly would lift off of the chassis plate, and remain intact with the body. In the case of the Eagle and the Lotus72, the whole front suspension assembly would stay intact with the chassis plate. (As mentioned, it’s possible that this may still vary from one sample to another, depending on which seams are more strongly cemented.) ]   C.  The third and last stage in the work is a bit more tricky, but necessary if you want to repair or replace any parts related to the motor or rear axle assembly. There are two general ways to approach this stage.  Option-A involves breaking the seams at the bottom of the rear suspension uprights, and results in the top half of the engine-transmission housing, top half of the rear suspension assembly, and the full rear axle assembly, all lifting up off the rest, leaving the motor and bottom half of the suspension to remain with the chassis.  Option-B involves separating off the top half of the engine-transmission housing, lifting it upwards, and results in both the upper and lower suspension components, and the full rear axle assembly, remaining on the chassis along with the motor (basically as it would in a regular chassis). I tried the first approach and found that, on my sample, the seams at the bottom of the rear suspension uprights were hard to get at, and were strongly cemented, and there didn’t seem to be any other advantage to that option. On the other hand, I found (at least in my sample) that option-B would allow me to separate the key components at dry-fit joints.  With either approach, the first two steps in the work of this stage are the same. The rear oil tank/exhaust support covers the back seam of the transmission housing, and must be removed. It can be pried loose with a tiny chisel or flat-head screw driver. (In my sample, it snapped off clean without breaking the tab or socket.)  You will now find that the horizontal seam all around in between the upper and lower half of the Cosworth engine and transmission housing, is loose. But don’t try to separate it yet.  There are left and right tie rods coming up from the bottom rear corners of the suspension, linking to stabilizing arms that cross the top of the transmission housing. I found that I could flex the top arms downward and slide and flex the tie rods backward, enough to separate the two. The rear suspension springs contact the lower assembly by dry-fit and will separate away attached to the top half. Now the top half of the engine-transmission housing, along with the attached driver, can be carefully separated and lifted up off of the bottom half. The reason I say carefully, is that the left coolant pipe winds its way from the front radiator, along the side of the body, over the exhaust headers, and up over the top of the transmission cover. Fortunately it’s a flexible pipe and is dry-fitted, so it can be slowly flexed away as you remove engine-transmission.   This step completes the last stage of the separation work, and gives access to the motor and rear axle assembly, allowing changes in motor, pinion, axle, crown gear, bushings/bearings and rims.   [ Comparison with the other models:  I’ve described how taking apart the other cars in this series affects their front suspensions. The Lotus49, Eagle, and Lotus72 models also have rear suspension constructions that are easier to take apart than the Tyrrell 002/003. The models other than the Tyrrell have rear uprights that have an inverted U-shaped opening with two pegs at the bottom that fit into holes in a plate in the bottom A-arm. This connection is either a dry-fit, or a minimal glue surface connection in the samples I’ve seen. There are two advantages stemming from this geometry; there is either little or no glue seam to break at the bottom, and the U-shaped opening allows the whole rear axle assembly to be lifted off of the rear suspension and a new one dropped in its place. Whereas, on the Tyrrell, even after fully separated, there is still a cylinder surrounding the axle at the outer end of the suspension, even if other parts were cut away. This means that, in order to change the crown gear or the bushings, you must pull the axle through those disc surrounds that are moulded extensions of the uprights. The only way to do so is to pull the rims off of the axle, and force the crown gear off the axle over what I would assume would be a knurled section. This, all the while the axle and crown gear are being housed in a structure of flimsy plastic. The way these cars are designed, I can only conclude that they are not intended to have parts repaired or upgraded!  (Finding aluminum rims correctly sized to match, is another matter!) ]   I hope this description is of some use to anyone considering a replacement of internal parts, or design of a scratch-built chassis for these GP cars.        Felix.    

      Started by: Avatar photoFelix in: How To – Tune It

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    • 2 years ago

      Avatar photoMiA

    • What kits are you buying, building, working on during isolation? I'm always looking for different and odd kits to build for the future. Here are some recent finds... Luis helped me pick this up from around the Hamilton area. Thank you Luis! The Triumph Herald is an odd looking duck. This Spitfire kit came from one of the members of Group-25. These just arrived from HobbyLink Japan. I finally got a Carrera Panamericana Beetle! What is everyone up to? What are you building or buying for future, possible builds? Post any build at all. Nothing is too strange. Cool scenery is interesting too. I may not build every kit. But it's fun poking through the boxes and deciding. :-)

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Vintage Slot Cars

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    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Simple Spray Booth It's cold outside so those of us who have cars to build need to paint indoors. Here are some pictures of a simple portable spray booth I put together that helps to keep the air fresher in my home. It was made using a clear polypropylene tote that I got on sale from Canadian Tire. This material is fairly easy to cleanup after painting and it allows in outside light for greater visibility. It uses a box in box design that allows for perfect sealing and easier portability. It uses an equipment rack fan that I bought on Amazon for just over 20 bucks. This fan runs on house voltage, is brushless and sparkproof and moves 110 cfm of air. this type of fan allows you to use any normal hobby paint including nail polish and automotive lacquers. The filter consists of lighting grid cut to fit  and fine aquarium floss built into a dollar store food saver. The fan is bolted through both boxes and the exhaust fitting making for a leakproof seal. I also added an on/off switch for convenience. The exhaust uses 4" semi flexible metal tubing attached to a woodworking exhaust fitting at one end using a 4" hose clamp and a dryer vent quick connect at the other. This is attached to the other half of the  quick connect that I have bolted  to a wooden window insert. As the main box was originally a tote the hose clamp can be loosened and the entire exhaust be put inside ready to be moved. My wife was painting a C4 corvette for Group 25 that Ken kindly gave her so we had a chance to test out the design. It worked flawlessly. It's best to start the fan before painting and to leave it on for a few minutes after you finish to make sure no solvents escape back into your home. Please remember that you should also be using appropriate safety equipment for the type of finish you're spraying. As I tend to use lacquers that means a respirator , gloves and eye protection. The whole project went together for about $75.00 worth of materials. I hope some of you find this useful. Let's get building! Cheers Steve  

      Started by: Avatar photoracer68 in: How To – Paint It

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    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photof1nutz

    • RIP John Flinn I am sad to report that John Flinn passed today. He had been undergoing some fairly aggressive  Chemo for the last couple of weeks. The only blessing is that the whole affair was very quick......a couple of us were at his cottage in mid Dec., doing a few laps, eating Pizza, and sharing silly stories.   RIP John Chris

      Started by: Anonymous in: Drivers of the Past

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    • 3 years ago

      Luis Meza

    • Ford Model T Hot Rod Greetings from Scarborough.  It's time to contribute to this Forum after reading it for so long.  Although I race with "the other Club", I did race a few R32 events several years ago and Hot Rods was one of the classes.   After using a borrowed car, I decided to scratch build my own.   Despite being in the Hobby since the 60's (off and on), I never a soldered a chassis together so this was going to be interesting.   I used the Lindberg 1925 Ford Model T and added a box (made from styrene) in the rear to hide the crown gear and AB Slot motor bracket. It has  RS Slot wheels with Dart inserts and Dart tires of course.   For a first attempt, I was quite pleased with it.

      Started by: Avatar photoGI in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoFelix

    • New Scratch32 Classifieds Area We now have a FREE classifieds area on Scratch32! Just click on 'Classifieds' in our top menu to see what is for sale (or wanted to buy). Or select 'Add a listing' from the 'Classifieds' drop down menu to post your ad right away! Users with a Scratch32 account can now post ads containing detailed descriptions and pictures of items they wish to sell privately for FREE. These ads can be read by anyone, including those without an account. [So you can post an ad and then link it anywhere else.] It is also easy for every user to manage their ads. All ads expire in 60 days. There are just three limitations: Only model slot car related content is permitted; No junk - only items of quality that you would or have used yourself; No retail sales or ads for inventories of items. Scratch32 will reserve the right to remove any ad(s) that do not comply.

      Started by: Arthur in: Website Information

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    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoPorsche911

    • Merry Christmas Everyone! Merry Christmas Everyone I hope that you are all doing well and that the Holidays give you some respite from this topsy-turvy-time. Many of you are ankle deep in new projects, that all look great by the way, and I hope to have some new stuff in the New Year to share with the group. May 2021 be a better, brighter year and give us all a chance to race together again. Cheers Steve

      Started by: Avatar photoracer68 in: Comings, Goings & Best Wishes!

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    • 3 years ago

      Luis Meza

    • 1960 Ken-Paul Special This is the first of two Indianapolis front motor models that I am building.  Both cars were driven by Jim Rathmann, who battled closely with Roger Ward and came in second in 1959 (Roger Ward won in 1959) and Jim won in 1960 (Roger Ward placed second in 1960).  Many say that the race in 1960 will be remembered as one of the best of all time with these two leaders trading places between first and second fifteen times after their third and final pit stop. Some photos of the actual car Here is my attempt using a resin body kit made by Gianluca Ostorero; a world renowned scale model maker/builder located in Italy.  A very nice chap, very helpful and easy to work with for anybody interested. I have already painted the inserts, driver seat and drivers body in this photo. I completed the chassis with a BWA Scan prior to the recent release of the rules... it will be switched with a BWA 050 motor.  I temporarily hot glued the motor in place for testing purposes and to be able to easily remove it.  The chassis is made of brass. Here is the completed car. Here is a side view...  The lighting is poor in this photo.  Also, the front windscreen is not yet installed. My second car will be the 1959 WATSON Roadster SIMONIZ Special #16 that placed second in the 1959 Indianapolis 500. Photo of the driver - Jim Rathmann   My 1959 model should be completed with a scratch built chassis and slim 050 BWA motor some time next week.  Stay tuned. Thanks for looking.

      Started by: Avatar photoJMSracer in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Indy Roadsters are coming! I'm sure we've all been looking forward to the debut of the Indy Roadsters. After talking to Art at Monday nights race it appears we will have a race  scheduled towards the end of this years S32 season. The rules are firming up and here is what we have so far. -Any true, front engined  roadster that was registered, qualified or participated in any Indy 500 race from 1950 onwards to the very last roadster in 1967 is eligible. -Only the FF050 slow  motor may be used in a front motor, rear drive  configuration with the motor ahead of the cockpit. -Cars must weigh a minimum of 80 grams. -Cars may use any size wheels and tires as long as they represent a reasonably scale appearance. -Authentic liveries are encouraged but fantasy liveries that maintain a look (paint colours, fonts and graphics) representative of the period that they raced in are allowed For anyone having trouble locating roadster bodies e-Bay is a great resource. Geodies is a seller that usually has several eligible bodies available and he is willing to combine shipping. Here is a link to a current body on sale https://www.ebay.ca/itm/1-32-Bardahl-Ferrari-Indianapolis-resin-body-kit-slotcar/193310078141?hash=item2d022db4bd:g:izcAAOSwDuleJzIi. e-Bay also often has old Eldon roadsters on sale. Rules may need a little polishing going forward but hopefully by keeping things relatively simple we can all  rise tothe challenge of building a front engine roadster . I'm looking forward to seeing what we all come up with . Lets get building!    

      Started by: Avatar photoracer68 in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • 1956 Ferrari Bardahl Indi-500 Special With the Indi-500 event drawing closer. Some poor guinea pig needs to sort out the rough edges of the class. I came across someone that bought this Geodies resin body and didn't start it. A lucky break. A blind chicken gets a kernel of corn every now and again. That hand written note about using heavy wire as exhaust pipes are the only instructions. You need to figure out the wheelbase and everything else on your own. A windshield was not included in this kit. The wheels, driver, and steering wheel make nice heavy paper-weights. The body weighs 23-grams by itself. It's a bit rough with several pin-holes and buldges. But you can't beat the price. I'm told resin bodies are a bit like egg shells in how they can easily break. 50.8mm max track width might be a tad too narrow for this slow and heavy class. But axles are easy enough to adjust. I'm going to start at 55mm track width and see how it looks. I can cut more off, but can't add it back on if I start too short. We'll find out what the consensus is after the car is built and everyone has had a look at it. I need to sort out the motor and drive shaft next. Where there's a will, there's a way. "Willoughby will, when nobody will!" Or something like that. Ferrari called this car experimental. They weren't kidding. It surely has become an S32 experiment.  

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Slosh Cast Parnelli Jones Watson Willard Battery Special ok starting a new thread for this build. I found a lexan body from the 60's of this model so I thought I'd try and make a slosh casting from it in order to get a hard resin body.   The lexan body was made by a company called Bilet Products in the 60's and had an original price of .49 cents. Stock number 82-04 Parnelli Jones 1-32 INDY_CAR After much work extricating the resin casting from the lexan (breaking it in half in the process) then repairing and doing a fair amount of Dremel detailing on the original blob I ended up with this: Wheelbase is 2-3/4 inches I found some nice 60's die cast Revell Halibrand racing mags for the rears and will use smaller aluminum rims for the fronts with some matching D'art's inserts.

      Started by: Avatar photof1nutz in: Scratch Built Models

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    • 3 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Major Update Coming Next Week to Scratch32 Folks, I must apply a manual update to our website but since there is a great chance things may no longer work as they do now (or not at all) I'm leaving it for later this week (November 8th or 9th) when I'll have extra time to wait on hold for technical support if things go off the rails. Sorry about that. BTW, this update should not change anything if it goes according to plan - so you won't notice anything if it is successful. :unsure: Cheers!

      Started by: Arthur in: Website Information

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    • 4 years ago

      Arthur

    • Indianapolis 500 Event With the upcoming Group 25 show now is a good time to give some notice and canvass interest for this variant of open wheel racing - like Ringwood and The Coppa - we can start with one class - the iconic front engine models from the '50's and '60's... and perhaps establish other classes covering earlier/later years or configurations depending on interest - actual liveries raced only (but number may be changed) and motor must be in a front motor configuration... motor will likely be restricted to either a BWNC1 or a BWMS050 unless there is interest in an unlimited motor designation... ...please give us your thoughts and suggestions either in person (preferred) or online here.

      Started by: Arthur in: R32 Class Criterium

    • 3
    • 8
    • 4 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Lotus 30 – DArt Body & Scratch Sidewinder Low Power Motor Chassis What better time to get into a Lotus 30 build than now - just in time for the upcoming CANAM Thunder! After some contemplation and a little scavenging then more contemplation it was settled. For this build I would mate the new DArt Lotus 30 body kit with full interior and fantasy livery to a scratch built chassis. I planned to use the following major components: DArt Lotus 30 Body Kit; 'low power' BWNC1 in a sidewinder configuration; Slot.It spur gear with scavenged 15T nylon pinion from some electronic device I threw away many years ago; 2 pair of BWA small 13" (11.85mm diameter) wheels all with DArt DA0211 urethane tires & DArt small inserts (customized); oil lite Parma bushings in the back, 1/8" brass tubes for the front stubs; and scavenged 'push in' guide from a Fly or other RTR scrap chassis. The trouble with making a 'low power' sidewinder model is always the gearing - so when I found the 15T nylon pinion with the correct pitch I couldn't resist. This sidewinder chassis would also be a torsion version using 3/32 piano wire as the spine sleeved by a section of 1/8" brass tube. The defining feature up front for this chassis would be the independent pins allowing the front wheels to have noticeable negative camber. I've wanted to experiment with a front end like this for a long time... if it didn't work then it would be easy enough to replace the sleeves with a straight section of tube. Several extra bits from the body kit are set aside for parts storage - like the larger inserts, clear lenses, short stacks & valve covers - they'll come in handy on another project sometime down the road I'm sure. I plan to use everything else.

      Started by: Arthur in: Scratch Built Models

    • 5
    • 15
    • 5 years ago

      Arthur

    • Ferrari 330 P4 No. 21 Ferrari 330 P4 Number 21 I've been asked to post a few photos of this model's body/chassis. The body is a modified Scalextric clam shell with modified interior and scratch built wire / brass chassis in a sidewinder configuration. The motor is a Piranha, gears are slot.it, rear bushings Parma, wheels are BWA, inserts & tires are DArt. To the best of my recollection the guide is a leftover Fly or Slotter. This is a very smooth runner - perhaps a bit more motor is in it's future. The modified interior with four body posts - nylon spacers glued in place - with flat black paint added. The bottom of the interior tray was raised slightly. Although the pilot's body was kept, I had to replace the pilot's head with a DArt period one - even though it is hard to see through the window... Ample clearance throughout the length of the chassis. I used a snap in guide from my spares bin plus whatever wire came with the Piranha motor. If you are buying parts always get the best - never anything like this guide - but I like to recycle whenever I can... the front 1/8" axle sleeve isn't even centred on this build - notice the extra brass washers on one side... not flattering photographs but that's what this is - this chassis was never intended to be a showpiece - I had to laugh after I opened it up yesterday to take these pictures... also note the brass tube used to lock the hinge pins in place. The motor is held in place with a fabricated motor bracket and 2mm motor mount screws. Hard to see here but the bottom of the endbell side of the motor fits very tightly within the piano wire chassis - basically snapping into place. No other bracing is used - but should I replace the motor with a 25k S-can then I would prepare to solder to the chassis to lock the motor in on the endbell side. But as I said - not needed for this application. Some interesting wear on the right rear tire... looks like the rears need to be re-profiled again which will give more grip. Lots of re-enforcement at the back. The motor rests against the rear piano wire assembly at the top. Axles with high iron content will be attracted to the magnet in the motor - never bothered to worry about that. You can see from the top that the motor is offset slightly. I never added weight to counter any imbalance - the model corners just as well in either direction. The bottom of the chassis - you can see how tightly the motor is located within the chassis base. The hinged brass body base floats atop the chassis. The wire 'pins' that hold the body plate/pan in place can be removed using tweezers and prying them out of the centre tube located just behind the guide. It never hurts to take full advantage of all of the properties of each material or component you are using - in this case the flexibility of the wire (just as in a torsion chassis too). Looks like it will be time to change that braid... I suspect it was the braid that was already in that guide... when I put this model together... Cleaned and back together again and ready to go once more! I'll leave profiling to the tires to another time. BTW, A shout out to Frank who gave me this setup block! It works better for photographs than the aluminium SCC block I usually use.

      Started by: Arthur in: Scratch Built Models

    • 3
    • 2
    • 5 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Ford Tudor-6 This is my first scratch build. Please forgive the mistakes. It's a Lindberg static kit of a Ford Tudor. My inspiration for the build was the Carrera Panamerica. The paint is Testor's " One Coat" lacquer. The drivers I chose to create the car after were Mickey Thompson and Rodger Flores from USA. Car #204, 1954. Sponsered by Ford and La Carrera Panamerica. No photo's of this livery were available. More photo's to follow. Ken

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Scratch Built Models

    • 4
    • 17
    • 5 years ago

      Avatar photoKen

    • Slot car travel box I remember showing up for my first race 5-months ago, March 24th at MVL. I had one yellow Slot-It GT40 in a sandwich bag, and had to borrow a controller. I saw racers walking in with custom slot car cases filled with nice cars. My first thought was "What the bleep did I walk into here?" On that note... I saw a bread box on the "Bed, Bath, and Beyond" website.

      Started by: Avatar photoKen in: Slot Car Resources

    • 5
    • 11
    • 5 years ago

      Avatar photoMiA

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