Proper Care and Feeding: NiMH Battery FAQs
Proper Care and Feeding: NiMH Battery FAQ
By Steve DeGeyter — October 16, 2023
Q: What does NiMH stand for?
A: The material is Nickel Metal Hydride (NiMH) which has many advantages over other battery construction materials.
Q: What is meant by battery memory?
A: Older generation and batteries with other chemical make-up were subject to a memory effect. This is when a battery must be fully drained before recharge or their capacity is reduced. The New Generation of NIMH batteries do not develop a memory effect and can be recharged at anytime during usage cycle. When uncertain about battery charge level or condition, recharge it.
Q: What is the mAh rating mean?
A: This is a rating of energy storage capacity mAh = “milli-ampere hours”. So if you are comparing batteries to a AA with a 2000 mAh rating, it will have twice the capacity of a 1000 mAh rating.
Q: What is the best application for NiMH batteries?
A: Most all applications where there is a high energy consumption and demand, is where NiMH belongs. The most popular applications are digital cameras, flashlights, and toys. If you find yourself constantly buying alkaline batteries for an application, then you should consider using rechargeable NiMH.
Q: How many times can a NiMH battery be recharged?
Rechargeable NiHM BatteriesA: Lower capacity rechargeable AA batteries of 1700 up to 2000mAh can be recharged up to 1000 times in overnight slow charge mode, while 2100 to 2400 mAh rechargeable batteries can be recharged up to 600 to 800 times in overnight slow charge mode.
The new higher capacity AA 2500 mAh rechargeable batteries have greater power capacity, but they can only be recharged approx 500 times in the overnight mode. Capacity improvement or quick charging will always decrease the number of cycles. Every cell available on the market above 2100 mAh will have below 1000 charge cycles.
Q: What applications are not good places to use NiMH batteries?
A: Any situation where the battery is not used within a 30 day period or low energy draw devices, for example smoke alarms, emergency flashlights, clocks, TV remotes, etc.
Q: Why won’t NiMH batteries work in some applications such as smoke alarms?
A: NiMH batteries self discharge about 1% per day so if used in a low energy consummation or stand-by device, the battery will only last about 90 days before requiring recharge.
Q: Can I use a higher rated mAh battery in my electronic device (i.e. 1800mAh vs. 2000mAh)?
A: Yes, the mAh rating will give you longer run times between recharges. The higher rated mAh of a battery has no effect on electronic devices other than they allow longer term use.
Q: Why are AA and AAA batteries rated at 1.2 volts and alkaline batteries rated at 1.5 volts?
A: In fact, over the course of their discharge, alkaline batteries actually average about 1.2 volts. The main difference is that an alkaline battery starts at 1.5 volts and gradually drops to less than 1.0 volts. NiMH batteries stay at about 1.2 volts for almost 80% of their discharge cycle. Once alkaline batteries discharge to 50% capacity, it will be delivering a lower voltage than a NiMH battery.
Q: What you NEVER want to do with replaceable batteries?
A:
Never mix batteries from different manufacturers
Never mix batteries of different capacities
Never mix batteries of different chemistries, i.e. NiCd, NiMH, Lithium, etc.
Never DROP the battery if you can help it as NiMH batteries damage internally quite easily
Never store NiMH in the refrigerator
Never expose to extreme heat
Q: Do NiMH batteries lose capacity over time?
A: Yes, but nothing drastic. About 10 to 15% of the battery mAh capacity will be lost at the 400 to 800 recharge level. This will vary greatly because of battery and charger quality, along with how the consumer treats their batteries.
Q: When I receive my batteries do I need to charge them?
A: Yes, before you use them for the first time, you need to charge your NiMH batteries fully. Please note that for new NiMH batteries, it is often necessary to cycle them at least three to five times or more before they reach peak performance and capacity. The first several times that you use your NiMH batteries you may find that they run down (discharge) quickly during use. Don’t worry, this is normal until the batteries actually structure internally.
Q: Is there a difference in chargers. i.e, fast, slow, microprocessor controlled, etc?
A: Yes, there are differences in the different chargers on the market today. If the charger was designed and sold in the past couple years and specifically says it is made to charge NiMH batteries you are probably okay. Most of the new chargers use a small computer chip to manage the charge and you should be getting at least 500 charges from your batteries. If not, buy a new charger. Some of the no name batteries sometimes have a short life. Fast chargers also tend to give shorter battery life of less than 500 charges.
Q: How do dispose of old NiMH batteries?
A: This is an easy one! While it is safe and legal in most states to dispose of your NiMH battery in your regular trash, we always encourage recycling whenever possible.
Started by: Arthur
in: Helpful Mini-Z Tips, Tricks & Hacks
1
1
1 month ago
f1nutz
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Open F1 (F1)
Open F1 (F1)
v1.0
My best guess:
Any Formula One hard body model;
Any chassis; and
Motor restricted to 25k maximum (voltage not stipulated).
Started by: Arthur
in: T32 Class Criterium
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1 month ago
Arthur
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Rally Class (RC)
Rally Class (RC)
v1.0
Courtesy of the SOS rules v1.3:
RC – Rally (Open Class)
Eligible Models: Any manufacturer’s Rally Car body (as raced with Fog Lights and Co Driver)
Chassis - Plastic Chassis (May be Stiffened), Glass appropriate to model
Motor and Configuration – Any up to 22K
Started by: Arthur
in: T32 Class Criterium
- 0
- 0
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1 month ago
Arthur
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Hot Rod (HR)
Hot Rod (HR)
v1.0
Courtesy of the SOS rules v1.3:
HR - Hot Rod Class (Unlimited Class)
Any manufacturer with or without fenders – Model Years 1901 thru 1959;
Motor - BWMS050 in an inline configuration
Maximum tire width – 6mm
Maximum overall width of front and rear rolling assemblies is 51mm. Bodies/fenders
may be wider;
Started by: Arthur
in: T32 Class Criterium
- 0
- 0
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1 month ago
Arthur
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Kyosho Mini-Z RWD Exploded View
[pdf-embedder url="https://scale-modeler.ca/wp-content/uploads/2024/01/MINI-Z_RWD-T01_EX.pdf"]
Started by: Arthur
in: Mini-Z Technical Reference Material
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- 0
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2 months ago
Arthur
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Kyosho Mini-Z MR03 Technical Guide
[pdf-embedder url="https://scale-modeler.ca/wp-content/uploads/2024/01/MR03TG_MR-03_Technical_Guide.pdf"]
Started by: Arthur
in: Mini-Z Technical Reference Material
- 0
- 0
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2 months ago
Arthur
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Kyosho Mini-Z RWD Instruction Manual
[pdf-embedder url="https://scale-modeler.ca/wp-content/uploads/2024/01/MINI-Z_RWD-T01_IM.pdf"]
Started by: Arthur
in: Mini-Z Technical Reference Material
- 0
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2 months ago
Arthur
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IROC 2024 Series
Gents,
Talk is cheap, especially when it comes to an IROC series... but there might still be time to get the ball rolling for 2024 with a new IROC Challenger Series for both constructors and pilots racing at Nova Ridge and Molto VeLoce with the additional home host track too!
Interested?
The platform will be based on a finished DArt Ferrari 312P (with card interior) that is molded in one of 12 unique colours and using mandatory (and provided) DArt wheels, painted inserts & marked club series urethane tires. Each coloured model will have a distinctive livery.
Chassis, configuration, body mounting system, motor, gearing, and anything else are completely open. Build or assemble it yourself or have anyone else do it for you. Maintain it or improve it after each race or don't bother touching it. The choice is yours. So long as you bring your working 312P model you can participate and race all of the models in true IROC fashion by rotating through the lanes (and models). With 12 models on a 4 lane track everyone would compete across three rotations:
Every model is assigned to a lane and rotation (1Green, 1Yellow, 1Red, 1Blue, 2G, 2Y, 2R, 2B, 3G, 3Y, 3R or 3B) and stays on that lane throughout;
Every participant races through the first rotation (european) until everyone has gone;
Second and third rotations are raced until everyone has raced every model for an equal amount of time (usually 3 minutes);
Both pilot and model/manufacturer results are recorded (top and lowest finish for each model/manufacturer in every race is dropped as well);
On a three lane home track there will be four rotations instead of three. Any home track will have an opportunity to host up to two races.
Every participant will provide and maintain their working 312P entry. 'Working' means that it is not only raceable but also meets a minimum lap time of 130% of the pole time, although this could be tweaked. If you don't supply a working 312P entry for that race then you cannot participate in that IROC race.
Models will be assigned to a lane and rotation after qualifying so that the fastest models will be raced last and models performing alike will race together as much as is possible.
The top three finishing pilots from the previous race will qualify the models.
If a model cannot finish a heat then the closest available match will replace it for the duration of the rotation.
Other tweaks will need to be made but you get the point...
This will be a separate series and not piggyback R32, S32 or S24 racing. The day, time and frequency will be determined by the availability of the participants who purchase/enter models, but it would be preferable to have the series run at least once monthly.
The cost of the completed 312P with card interior, four wheels, unmounted & untrued marked tires and painted inserts is $100. An extra set of wheels, unmounted & untrued marked tires and painted inserts is $50... An extra set of wheels, mounted and trued marked tires and painted inserts is $100...
Any participant may purchase and enter more than one model and will get to race as often as they have working models entered... (so 3 models then 3x the racing and each scored separately - so it would be possible to have one racer take all three podium places...)
Purchased models are owned and kept by the participant.
The following molded colours will become available:
Green (sold)
Yellow (sold)
Red (sold)
Blue (sold)
Charcoal
White
Orange (sold)
Purple
Brown/Rust
Pink (sold)
Baby Blue
Liveries will use peel and stick decals and models will not have a clear lacquer or acrylic finish.
Completed liveries and wheels/tires/inserts will be available in December, 2023, on a first come first choice basis. Racing will start on Saturday, February 3, 2024.
Started by: Arthur
in: R32 Class Criterium
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2 months ago
Ken
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Welcome to T32 – The Toronto 1:32nd Slotters!
Welcome to the T32 forum on Scratch32!
If you are one of the lucky 9 to race with this Toronto based private slot car group you'll already know why. Races are held twice a month at both The River in Toronto and Cupcake Raceway in Vaughan.
T32 races a combination of R32, SOS and their own unique classes as selected by their hosts. Class rules can be found here.
This forum is moderated by JMSracer.
Started by: Arthur
in: T32
- 2
- 2
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2 months ago
DrVanski
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Classic LeMans 22 (CLM22)
Classic LeMans 22 (CLM22) (Open Class)
v1.0
Courtesy JMSracer:
Rules for CLM22 - Classic LeMans 22k (Open Class)
Eligible Models; Any manufacturers Sidewinder prototype cars which competed at LeMans
between 1965†through 1970. Brands Include but are not limited to Slot it, NSR, Thunderslot, Fly, SRC, Scalextric, Monogram, Policar, Spirit…
Stock Body, Interior, Plastic Chassis-May be Stiffened. Glass appropriate to model
Motor must be an S-Can 22,000 rpm or lower; Slot it orange, NSR 22k, MR Slotcar, Thunderslot, or Piranha 21.5k……
This class was originally created to allow racing of the stock Slot it GT 40's with orange motors and expanded to include all the rival models that raced at LeMans.
Started by: Arthur
in: T32 Class Criterium
- 1
- 0
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2 months ago
Arthur
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Revoslot Trans Am Jr. (RTA)
Revoslot Trans Am Jr. (RTA)
v1.0
Courtesy JMSracer:
Rules for Revoslot TransAm Jr series;
which includes the Alfa Romeo GTA's; Ford Escort MK1; BMW 2002's; and the Opel Kadet GT/E ONLY!
This is a stock class and all that can be done is blueprinting, changing the guide with the deep wood guide that comes with the cars as a spare guide and installing Dart of KK urethane tires.
Click on the link below to see a video on how to blueprint the Revoslot cars.
Many have used the Dart rubber washers to install between the chassis instead of the Gorilla tape as recommended in the video, your choice. Be careful not to true your front tires too much, they may not touch the track. Some have bent the front part of their chassis to make the front touch the track in cases where the front was not touching.
Revoslot Advance Tuning
Started by: Arthur
in: T32 Class Criterium
- 1
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2 months ago
Arthur
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Slot.It DTM/Touring (DTM)
Slot.It DTM/Touring (DTM)
v1.0
Courtesy of JMSracer:
Stock class of any Slot it models that are DTM/Touring cars, only blueprinting is permitted
Gearing - Stock 9/28 inline configuration;
Motor - Stock V12/4 21k
Started by: Arthur
in: T32 Class Criterium
- 1
- 0
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2 months ago
Arthur
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Boulevard Cruiser (BC)
Boulevard Cruiser (BC)
v1.0
Courtesy of JMSracer:
Eligible Hard Body Models: Any 1955 through 1963 full size American car. Gunze, Sangyo, Revell and AMT brands are highly recommended. Personalized licence plates are strongly encouraged while race numbers are not necessary (and in fact discouraged).
Motor: BWNC1 only (only BWA S-can)
Chassis: Any in any configuration, with any gearing
Front and Rear Tires: Any DArt Club Series Urethane Tire
Started by: Arthur
in: T32 Class Criterium
- 1
- 0
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2 months ago
Arthur
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Vintage Mini (VM)
Vintage Mini (VM) (Modified Class)
v1.0
Courtesy of JMSracer:
Eligible Models: Scalextric 1959 and 1960's Vintage Mini's. Inline with 14k slimline motor (Morris Mini's, Mini Cooper's);
Stock - Body, Interior, Chassis, Glass, Lights with modified slow slim BWA Motor .
Minimum overall weight – 70gm
Gear ratio 9 or 10 T pinion / 21 stock crown gear not to be tampered with
Wheel track must be kept within the model's body width, the wheels must not be visible when viewing the car from above. Typically 43.5mm wide at rear and 44.5mm wide at front.
Permitted modification - can switch stock front stub axles with solid axle which will require a modification to guide with B-nova. Also upgrade stock plastic wheels with aluminium replacements.
Basically, you should remove the stock stub axles in the front and install a solid axle which allows independent front wheel rotation, this will require you to cut the stock guide holder down to about 1mm thickness and install a B-Nova/ CG Slot guide adaptor to give the reduced guide holder some additional strength/support. Install as much weight as you want, there is a minimum weight of 70 grams. Remove the tiny 21T stock crown from the stock axle and install it onto a better replacement axle and replace all plastic wheels with aluminium wheels. You must keep the 21T stock crown but can replace the stock 9T plastic pinion with a 10T brass/steel pinion.
Started by: Arthur
in: T32 Class Criterium
- 1
- 0
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2 months ago
Arthur
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1962 Chevrolet Bel Air
[foogallery id="42868"]
Cheers!
Started by: Arthur
in: Scratch Built Models
- 3
- 3
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2 months ago
f1nutz
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The Zing
A basement track (no matter how small) to test, run and possibly race a Mini Z in the comfort of ones' own home is a rather nice luxury... so the project begins... let's see what can reasonably fit into the space I have right now... if testing proves that it is enough then a more permanent solution can be pursued...
Just using EVA tiles with generic square corner foam barriers doesn't turn my crank - the track, just like the models on it, must have curb appeal.
Let's get going with a paper template to test with and see what's possible.
[caption id="attachment_42376" align="aligncenter" width="1280"] Laying out the basic footprint using scrap paper.[/caption]
Started by: Arthur
in: The Zing
- 3
- 7
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2 months ago
Luis Meza
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Reinforcing the Front End – Mazda 787B
The Kyosho Mini-Z hardbodies are quite brittle and impacts to the weak front quarters will likely crack the body just below the inner side of the headlamp casing. This happened to my 787B in what seemed to be a relatively minor tap of an inner border knuckle.
Repaired left front quarter (see crack next to the tow hook) between the headlamp casing and the splitter - unpainted.The design of the narrow front body mounting bracket inside the nose of the model should handle head on impacts well enough - but exposes the front quarters.
[caption id="attachment_42440" align="aligncenter" width="1280"] Repaired left front quarter (after installing LED light kit). Notice the missing orange paint where the Plast-I-Weld was applied by brush to the underside. The paint on the surface remained fine.[/caption]
The MR-03RWD chassis has provision to mount an added front bumper which could extend underneath the front splitter of the body but that's a separate topic - reinforcing the chassis - and for another day.
Let me be clear with what I'm doing here - I'm no expert and not advising anyone to do this nor am I claiming that this is a good thing to do - it is simply an experiment that I'm sharing and the verdict will take time but I'm curious and willing to try. I'm relying on my own slot car experiences to see how much I can transfer to this branch of the hobby. That's all - and any comments, suggestions and improvements by reply are most welcome...
So...
To reinforce the front quarters I used a paper template and cut 1.6mm thick styrene sheet (as best I could) into two pieces designed to fit flush underneath the left and right headlamp casings.
I then used Flex-I-File Plast-I-Weld applied liberally to bond the styrene to the bottom of the headlamp casings and along the edges butting the mounting box, the front and the sides. Be careful not to flood the headlamp casings or your clear lens covers will get damaged and the paint may bleed. Better yet, remove the lenses but don't gum up the tab openings with any adhesive.
Flex-I-File's Plast-I-Weld Liquid Weld
Satisfied with the strength of the weld so far I applied a thick filet of 5 minute two part epoxy to reinforce the quarters and fill the space above the mounting box.
Haven't yet but I could paint the reinforced areas with flat black acrylic to make them a little prettier.
Notice how the front white body mount (in white plastic) fits just inside the box and basically floats - and all of the momentum from any frontal impact of the body transfers to the white body mount (and chassis) through the two very small slightly wider 'tabs' extending just the width of that box.
In any event, the extra styrene and epoxy added just 4.4g to the body - a small tradeoff for the piece of mind I now have.
Weight of the Mazda 787B body (with light kit installed) before and after reinforcing the front end.
[caption id="attachment_42435" align="alignleft" width="384"] Weight of the Mazda 787B Body with Light Kit[/caption]
[caption id="attachment_42562" align="alignright" width="270"] Weight of the Mazda 787B body with light kit after reinforcing the front quarters.[/caption]
My goal was to spread any minor impacts at the quarters to the whole front end of the body which I hope this does. Time will tell.
Up next - an invisible (or discreet) front chassis bumper...
Started by: Arthur
in: Helpful Mini-Z Tips, Tricks & Hacks
- 0
- 0
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3 months ago
Arthur
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Welcome to the Mini-Z Forum!
Gentlemen,
Welcome to our new Mini-Z platform forum.
Our focus here is on casually racing these models in a more or less stock configuration using both available and customized parts and hard bodies in 1:28 and 1:24/5.
Started by: Arthur
in: Mini-Z Platform
- 1
- 1
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3 months ago
f1nutz
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1966- 1971 Classic Era Endurance Prototype & Sportscar (CP)
1966- 1971 Classic Era Endurance Prototype & Sportscar (CP)
v1.0
Eligible Hard Body Models: Any hard body prototype or sportscar that competed between 1966 through 1971 in an endurance race lasting at minimum 6 hours, 1000 kilometers or over multiple stages spanning several days; and
Tires: Any DArt Club Series Urethane Tire.
Started by: Arthur
in: R32 Class Criterium
- 0
- 0
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5 months ago
Arthur
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Pre-War Streamliner (PGP+)
Pre-War Streamliner (PGP+)
v1.0
Eligible Hard Body Models: Any model that competed in a state or club sanctioned road, rally, endurance race or a grand prix between the years 1900 through to 1939 anywhere in the world;
Low Power BWMS050 Motor Only;
Any Inline Chassis;
Wheels: Must not exceed 16.5 mm in diameter and 5.5 mm in width;
Tires: DArt urethane club series (DA0210 recommended). Tires must not exceed 23 mm in diameter; and
Maximum Width: 51mm (actually 50.8 mm – excluding fenders or insert detail which may extend beyond).
Started by: Arthur
in: R32 Class Criterium
- 0
- 0
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5 months ago
Arthur
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1971 Citroen SM
Coincidentally this appeared on my Insta feed...
Started by: Arthur
in: Vintage Slot Car Articles and Other Reference Materials
- 2
- 2
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5 months ago
f1nutz
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1966 Plymouth Satellite
Since we are now circling the Nova Ridge Motorsports Park with our larger scale boulevard cruisers here's an interesting specimen posted to insta to strive for:
Cheers!
Started by: Arthur
in: Historical 1:1
- 1
- 1
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6 months ago
Ken
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Revoslot Sr/Jr & Boulevard Cruisers
For those racing at Riverdale and Cupcake:
This is just a reminder that the Revoslot Jr and the Sr class are both "STOCK" classes. This means you cannot change the gearing, all you are allowed to do is to blueprint the cars and install urethane tires. If you ever strip a gear which is almost impossible to do unless you are doing something wrong.... you must replace it with the stock gear that came with the cars. Going forward, before you make any modifications to your cars, please read the rules first.
In the Revoslot Jr class; all but the BMW 2002 are geared 9/24; the BMW is 9/23 and I believe one of them is 9/27.
Big Boat vs Boulevard Cruiser.
A follow up reminder, the Boulevard Cruiser is an open class except for motor which is limited to only the 14k BWA S-Can. There is no weight limit and you can have any chassis, any gearing, urethane rear tires. Any body 1955 through 1963 full size American car. Gunze, Sangyo, Revell and AMT brands are highly recommended;
Vs.
Big Boat
Although this class allows literally all the same models as the Boulevard Cruiser... This class has a minimum weight, body length. open gearing, open chassis and allows a 15k JACK RABBIT MOTOR.
The way to remember it is Boulevard Crusiser is only BWA motor, Big Boat is Jack Rabbit motor...
Started by: Arthur
in: T32 Class Criterium
- 1
- 0
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7 months ago
Arthur
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Rail Racing & Spin Dizzies
Attached are a few screen shares from Instagram of early rail racing. Enjoy!
[foogallery id="41091"]
Started by: Arthur
in: Vintage Slot Car Articles and Other Reference Materials
- 2
- 2
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7 months ago
Ken
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S24 Runabout Sessions
Gents,
Future S24 runabout sessions will no longer require registration. Please understand that these sessions are for active members of Scratch32. Anyone without a Scratch32 account who might be interested in participating should contact either myself or Ken.
Normally these sessions will be held once a month on a Saturday but there will be the odd switch to a Sunday due to scheduling constraints.
Looking ahead we will begin racing our large scale (1:25) Boulevard Cruisers. If you have more than one model you can enter and race each one as a separate entry (numbers permitting). For info on class requirements please check the other threads in this subforum or just ask us. Eventually we'll post class criterium in accordance with the suggestions in those threads. If you do not have time to build your own chassis but are interested in participating please contact Ken to commission one of his KRZ chassis.
Cheers!
Started by: Arthur
in: S24
- 2
- 3
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8 months ago
Ken
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SOS Classes & Rules Package (2019)
[pdf-embedder url="https://scale-modeler.ca/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/SOS-racing-Rules-V13-Sep-2019_221225_002031.pdf"]
Started by: Arthur
in: T32 Class Criterium
- 1
- 0
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8 months ago
Arthur
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Cupcake Raceway Big Boat Class (2023)
Cupcake Raceway II Big Boat Class (as per email of today)
Any model body plastic, or 3 D printed from 1955 to 1967
No numbers
max width 63 mm
min length155mm
plastic brass or aluminium chassis
driver and interior
open gearing
Any motor configuration
80 gram min weight
Jack Rabbit motor 14 K preferred, BWA OR vanski if you want ( Ernie is stocking Jack rabbits for us for 12.50 each)
Hard top or convertible.
KK tires or Darts only....
Started by: Arthur
in: T32 Class Criterium
- 1
- 0
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8 months ago
Arthur
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2023 R32 Summer Break
Gents,
With the spectacular weather comes cottaging, family vacations, BBQs, sailing and many other outdoor weekend commitments so R32 will take a well deserved summer break until September.
The fall schedule for both R32 and S32 is now online so check for classes and dates. Hopefully this will give everyone ample opportunity to get any unfinished projects completed.
Please note that the R32 race at MVL originally planned for this Saturday is unfortunately cancelled due to insufficient registration (3). My sincerest apologies to GI and KensRedZed but at least everyone still has a chance to make alternate plans.
Enjoy the break and I'll hopefully see everyone in September!
Started by: Arthur
in: R32
- 4
- 5
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10 months ago
Ken
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R32 Classes for 2023
Gents,
I know many of you have been overwhelmed with new classes in every group that races in southern Ontario. R32 is no exception but rest assured that our R32 classes are now fixed for the balance of 2023.
Recently we've added several classes as a fifth experimental race. We've also included them in our Class Criteria subforum for reference going forward.
At this point R32 has 23 classes in total. You'll find them all within our Class Criteria subforum.
Some of the 'new' R32 classes are not new at all. The original Sportscar (SP) [and later Sportscar Plus (SP+)] class[es] which included any sportscar raced between 1950 and 1969 are now divided into four distinct classes:
50SP - 1950's Endurance Sportscar
60SP - 1960's Endurance Sportscar
USSP - 1960-1965 SCCA & USRRC North American Sportscar
USSP+ - 1960-1965 SCCA & USRRC North American Sportscar Plus
Any host can combine these if they wish, such as 50SP and 60SP as Porsche911 did last visit to Spa Lyons.
Trans Am Plus (TA+), Boulevard Cruisers (BC) and Indy Roadster (IR) have been on our radar for many years. You can find several threads for each of these classes started years ago in our forums area. Simply use the search scratch32 website feature at the bottom of any page to find helpful examples of discussions, builds and tests posted by many of you which have proved very beneficial in getting these classes up and running.
Unlimited Open (U) while a new class is not really anything requiring a new build or anything special since everyone racing with R32 will already have more than suitable models that have no class to race under. Models previously raced in the former Classic Prototype series (CP) are all great candidates as are other RTR models such as the Mosler.
Well, there you have it.
Going forward R32 will add a fifth race to every race morning and these new classes will feature equally within our schedule for the balance of 2023.
I'll remind you that the KRZ chassis works very well for both the boulevard cruisers and indy roadsters (among many others). Contact Kensredzed to order one if you don't have a car already.
In addition to our usual R32 rotation we will have S32 special events including American Thunder, La Carrera Panamericana, Ringwood, Coppa D'oro, Targa Florio, Player's 200 and the Internationale Meisterschaft for those hankering to scratchbuild even more!
Now get building!!!
Started by: Arthur
in: R32
- 1
- 0
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1 year ago
Arthur
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Ford GT Alan Mann Heritage Edition
Gents,
Some of you who visited our host MVL Leasing saw the Alan Mann Heritage Edition Ford GT. A beautiful super car and wonderful tribute livery straight from the Ford factory. From MVL's Instagram account these photos were released:
For more information visit:
Top Gear Article
Started by: Arthur
in: Historical 1:1
- 4
- 3
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1 year ago
f1nutz
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Boulevard Cruiser (BC)
Boulevard Cruiser (BC)
v1.0
Eligible Hard Body Models: Any 1955 through 1963 full size American car. Gunze, Sangyo, Revell and AMT brands are highly recommended. Personalized licence plates are strongly encouraged while race numbers are not necessary (and in fact discouraged).
Motor: BWNC1
Chassis: Any in any configuration
Front and Rear Tires: Any DArt Club Series Urethane Tire [DArt D7 (black or white walls) strongly recommended]
Started by: Arthur
in: R32 Class Criterium
- 0
- 0
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1 year ago
Arthur
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Indy Roadster (IR)
Indy Roadster (IR)
v1.0
Eligible Hard Body Models: Any true, front engined roadster that tested, registered, qualified or participated in any Indy 500 race from 1950 onwards.
Eligible Liveries: Authentic liveries are encouraged but fantasy liveries that maintain a look (paint colours, fonts and graphics) representative of the period that they raced are allowed.
Motor: BWMS050.
Chassis: Any inline front motor configuration where the complete motor 'can' is forward of the base of the windscreen. The motor may be offset. The motor shaft extension may use additional bushings/bearings and be directly attached to the motor shaft with any flexible coupling (such as a spring or soft tubing) or be offset using any gearing.
Minimum Weight: 80g
Maximum Overall Width: 54mm
Tires: Any sized DArt Club Series urethane tires with a reasonable scale appearance. [DArt D7.5 strongly recommended]
Started by: Arthur
in: R32 Class Criterium
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1 year ago
Arthur
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Hot Rod sub classes
From online, email and in person discussions over the past several years it should now be safe to say that the overall class of Hot Rods (HR) breaks down more precisely into the following sub classes:
Street Rods (SR) - (aka Hot Rod) - Any modified or customized car or truck model from 1948 or earlier with or without fenders in paint or in primer;
Rat Rods (RR) - Any custom car or truck model with a deliberately worn-down, unfinished appearance, typically lacking paint, showing rust, and made from cheap or cast-off parts;
Street Machines (SM) - Any modified or customized car or truck model from 1949 or later with fenders in paint or in primer; and
Gassers (GS) - A vintage drag car that was popularized in the '50s and '60s (up to 1968) that ran on gasoline and used a straight axle front suspension which gave the model a very high front end stance. Most gassers also sported Halibrand wheels, no front bumper, and had a front mounted Moon tank. The gasser form was dictated by function and most builders looked to eliminate as much weight as possible. Having their exhaust pipes exit through the front fender to shorten the length of exhaust tubing is another common characteristic of gassers. Builders used 1930s through 1950s production coupes or sedans to create these highly modified racing vehicles, including (but not limited to) the following: 1933 Willys Model 77 Coupe; 1940 Willys; 1941 Willys Americar; 1948 Anglia; 1949 Chevy Fleetline or Styleline; 1951 Henry J; 1955 Ford T-Bird; 1955 Chevy Nomad; 1955 Chevy; 1957 Corvette.
I believe the first three sub classes are easily covered by the current Hot Rod (HR) class criteria. Gassers are another story never meant to be raced around corners. To encourage realism in Gasser models rather than institute some technical requirement (such as a minimum front axle height) a form of bracket (or minimum lap time) [if they are raced] may be a better solution. A minimum weight limit might also be incorporated to help offset the performance disadvantage.
Thank you to everyone for their comments and especially to Belleville Kevin for bringing some much needed clarity to this otherwise vague class.
Started by: Arthur
in: R32
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1 year ago
Ken
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1960-1965 SCCA & USRRC North American Sportscar Plus (USSP+)
1960-1965 SCCA & USRRC North American Sportscar Plus (USSP+)
v1.0
Eligible Hard Body Models: Any Sportscar that competed in an SCCA or USRRC race between 1960 and 1965;
Motor: Any
Tires:
Front: Stock or any size DArt Club Series Urethane Tire;
Rear: Any size DArt Club Series Urethane Tire;
Started by: Arthur
in: R32 Class Criterium
- 0
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1 year ago
Arthur
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1960-1965 SCCA & USRRC North American Sportscar (USSP)
1960-1965 SCCA & USRRC North American Sportscar (USSP)
v1.0
Eligible Hard Body Models: Any Sportscar that competed in an SCCA or USRRC race between 1960 and 1965;
Low Power Motor: BWA BWNC1, Ninco NC1, Ninco NC8, BWA BWMS050 or Vanski FF050;
Tires:
Front: Stock or any size DArt Club Series Urethane Tire;
Rear: Any size DArt Club Series Urethane Tire;
Started by: Arthur
in: R32 Class Criterium
- 0
- 0
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1 year ago
Arthur
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Unlimited Open (U)
Unlimited Open (U)
v1.0
Eligible Models: Any body (hard or clear) regardless of class
Tires:
Rear - Any size DArt Club Series Urethane Tire
Front - 'Stock' or any size DArt Club Series Urethane Tire
Maximum overall width of 70mm
Started by: Arthur
in: R32 Class Criterium
- 0
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1 year ago
Arthur
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User Login Update
I've updated our Scratch32 login process for all users and tested it using a generic test account.
All users may now log in using any of these website links:
The original MEMBER LOGIN widget at the bottom left of every Scratch32 page;
The original Log In fields at the bottom of every forum thread; and
The new LOGIN main header menu link at the top of every page (or the new LOGIN footer menu link at the very bottom of every page) which will take you to a new customized login page.
After you log in you will see your avatar and user name shown at the bottom left of every Scratch32 page, along with a logout link. Please remember to log out using either that link or the logout link underneath the classifieds widget at the bottom right side of every page.
After you log in if you wish to view your user profile click on either your avatar or your user name shown at the bottom left of every Scratch32 page. You can also edit your profile there, including changing your password or your avatar.
Please note that after you log in there will no longer be a black account administration menu at the top of Scratch32 pages. If you wish to edit your user account, change your password or avatar or log out you will need to use the procedures noted above.
Should you forget your user name you may now log in using the email address associated with your account by clicking on the LOGIN main menu link. If you forget your password you can have it reset by clicking on the Lost Your Password? link immediately underneath the new login page to receive an email allowing you to reset your password.
***REMEMBER TO CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER AS THESE PASSWORD RESET EMAILS ARE SOMETIMES FLAGGED AS SPAM. ***
Hope this helps...
Cheers!
Started by: Arthur
in: Website Information
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1 year ago
Arthur
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Trans Am Plus (TA+) – More Restrictions Needed?
Regarding our proposed TA+ criteria are there any additional restrictions that anyone wishes to suggest?
So far we have:
Eligible Models: Any hard body model that raced in the Trans Am series between 1966 and 1973 regardless of class.
Motor: Any
Gearing: Any
Chassis: Any
Tires:
Rear – Any size DArt Club Series Urethane Tire
Front – ‘Stock’ or any size DArt Club Series Urethane Tire
NOTE that anything goes but for years raced, hard bodies & tires... ...of course the usual requirements must be met as with any class whether stock or open (ie. body, wheels and livery must look period correct, wheels/tires cannot exceed the width of fenders, etc.)
Started by: Arthur
in: R32
- 2
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1 year ago
Ken
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Trans Am Plus (TA+)
Trans Am Plus (TA+)
v1.1
Eligible Hard Body Models: Any model that raced in the Trans Am series between 1966 and 1973 regardless of class. Bodies may not be modified by chopping the roof, adding flares or modifying fenders in any way.
Motor: Any
Gearing: Any
Chassis: Any
Tires:
Rear - Any size DArt Club Series Urethane Tire
Front - 'Stock' or any size DArt Club Series Urethane Tire
Started by: Arthur
in: R32 Class Criterium
- 0
- 0
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1 year ago
Arthur
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1960-1965 1.5L Grand Prix (15LGP)
1960-1965 1.5L Grand Prix
v5.0
Eligible Models: Any provided the model represents a Grand Prix car which competed between 1960 and 1965. Cars produced in or prior to 1962 constitute Group 1 cars and cars produced thereafter constitute Group 2 cars
Motor: BWA BWMS050
Wheels - Not exceed 14mm in diameter AND:
Group 1 wheels must be no more than 6mm wide
Group 2 wheels must be no more than 7mm wide
Tires:
Rear - Any DArt Club Series Urethane Tire
Front - Any Stock or DArt Club Series Urethane Tire
Overall maximum width of 50.8mm
Started by: Arthur
in: R32 Class Criterium
- 0
- 0
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1 year ago
Arthur
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Copper Tape Maintenance
This is for owners of DArt tracks or others with copper taped mdf/wood tracks... and these are just my suggestions for maintaining your tape which have worked for me over the years...
With the change in seasons no matter how hermetically sealed your track space is you will notice a change in expansion rates between the mdf and tape... and it may be more pronounced when your track is newer... but have no fear - it is easily fixed.
For routine maintenance especially before hosting a race I recommend doing the following:
As for regular track maintenance:
1. Vacuum the track surface and each slot;
2. Using a clean but dry microfibre pad with broom handle (or a cloth) sweep the entire track surface;
3. Inspect the copper tape for any lifting... and using a BIC lighter carefully burnish any bubbles/folds back down so the tape is flat;
4. Repair any breaks or damage to the tape if any;
5. Turn track and timing software on to check that it works;
6. Run a stock scaley car slowly in each lane to make sure there are no dead spots between any previous tape repairs... if any dead spots then take a sharp exacto knife, locate the beginning and the end of the section that is dead (by moving the car along that section until power is interrupted) and pierce or stab more tiny holes in the tape that overlaps the original tape (usually a short length of 1 or 2 cm - note the small holes in that short length already);
New tape repairs:
1. Bridge the dead length (or cut) with a 4 or 5 cm piece of tape overlapping the original tape by a couple of centimeters at each end;
2. Before applying the tape cut each end of the tape at a 45 degree angle using scissors;
3. Remove backing and apply tape making sure there is enough overlap;
4. Burnish the new tape using a BIC lighter;
5. Stab holes on both ends where the tape overlaps until power is restored to the dead length;
6. Apply a small bead of superglue to the edges of the newly applied tape and let dry.
Started by: Arthur
in: How To – Build It
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- 3
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1 year ago
JMSracer
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1960’s 3.0L Grand Prix (3LGP)
1966-1969 3.0L Grand Prix (3LGP)
v5.0
Eligible Models: Any provided the model represents a 3.0L Grand Prix car which competed from 1966 through 1969
Chassis: Any inline chassis
Motor: Scalextric FF050 as provided in current releases of Scalextric brand cars
Wheels – maximum 14mm diameter
Tires - Any DArt Club Series urethane replacement tire:
Rear maximum width of 12mm; and
Front maximum width of 7mm;
Maximum overall width of 60mm
Started by: Arthur
in: R32 Class Criterium
- 0
- 0
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1 year ago
Arthur
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Spam Be Gone!
Gents,
After some time experimenting by allowing non-registered email posts within our forum recent spam attacks proved more than just an annoyance - so now only registered accounts can post to our forums. Please be advised that throughout this experiment our website was never compromised nor were any user accounts compromised in any way.
If anyone or anyone you know wishes to participate in our forums please request or have them request to have an account set up. It is easy to do and safe and secure as well.
Cheers!
Started by: Arthur
in: Website Information
- 0
- 0
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1 year ago
Arthur
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CANAM (CA)
CAN AM (CA)
v5.0
Eligible Models: Any hard body provided the model represents a Can Am car which ran at two sanctioned CAN AM races at different tracks in any year between 1966 through 1974 (coupes excluded)
Rear Wheels: minimum 14mm in diameter
Rear Tires: Any DArt Club Series Urethane Tire (NC0101 and D11 recommended, D13 STRONGLY recommended)
Front Tires: Stock or any DArt Club Series
Started by: Arthur
in: R32 Class Criterium
- 0
- 0
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1 year ago
Arthur
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1950’s Grand Prix (50GP)
1950's Grand Prix (50GP)
v5.0
Eligible Models: Any hard body model representing a Grand Prix car which competed between 1950 and 1960, typically with engines in front of the driver
Low Power Motor: BWA BWNC1, BWMS050, Vanski FF050 or Ninco NC1
Wheels: maximum 14mm in diameter x 6mm in width
Tires: any DArt ‘Club’ series urethane replacement tire (SC0120 and SC0120F highly recommended)
Overall maximum width: 50.8mm
Started by: Arthur
in: R32 Class Criterium
- 1
- 0
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1 year ago
Arthur
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Modern F1 (F1)
Modern F1 (F1)
v5.0
Eligible Models: Any 'stock' modern Scalextric (2000 and newer) F1 model
Motor - must be a 'stock' Scalextric S-can or slim motor - whichever came with the model
Maximum overall width not to exceed 58mm
Optional Modifications:
Guide - may be replaced by any 1:32 guide and adapter
Rear Wheels – any 12mm (or smaller) wheel may be used - rear suspension detail may be modified to accommodate wheels
Rear Tires - any DArt ‘Club’ series urethane replacement tire
Front Tires - 'stock' or any DArt 'Club' series urethane replacement tire
Rear Axle - may be replaced by a solid axle
Bushings - rear nylon/plastic bushings may be replaced with bronze/oilite bushings
Weight - may be added anywhere to the chassis or body provided it is concealed by the body - no weight may be added underneath the front wing or underneath the chassis
Spacers/Washers – may be used on the rear axle (inboard or outboard) and on the front axle (outboard only)
Gearing - stock gears may be replaced by any 27T crown gear together with a 9T pinion or any 24T crown gear together with an 8T pinion
Chassis Bracing – The portion from the driver to the rear of the chassis may be braced or strengthened using any material but both chassis and any modification thereto must remain unpainted and not concealed by any substance so that any such modification is clearly visible if the body is removed. Bodies and chassis may not be cut or altered to accommodate bracing
Started by: