• This topic has 9 replies, 3 voices, and was last updated 5 years ago by Avatar photoKen.
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  • #5327

    Fabricating the tongue that will hold your guide of choice should follow several basic principles, one of which is that travel or rotation should be limited either by the just the shape of the leading edges of your tongue or by adding stops. If you allow excessive rotation then you risk allowing your model to rotate well beyond the useful range of performance and either wedging it at a 90 degree angle which becomes a hazard to others or worse yet allowing it to travel in the reverse direction. Be sure to limit the rotation of your guide to just 45 degrees each way by shaping your tongue into a triangle or soldering stops in place depending on the style of guide. If your car is sliding more than 25 degrees from the direction of travel then it is already out of control and if it rotates well beyond that then a properly set up guide stop will at least force the guide (and your model) out of the slot, removing power and allowing it to slide to the gutter and usually out of harms way. In a recent race one car which allowed the guide to over rotate by at least 180 degrees repeatedly wedged itself sideways, blocking the track and creating a hazard for others at numerous locations around the track. Limiting the rotation of your guide will not only increase the life of your model but also the lives of the models of those who race with you.

    The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!

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    • #5349

      Here is a typical tongue/chassis that I use – this one happens to be from the 908/3 which recently raced in the Targa III – over rotation results in a gentle deslot. This one was fabricated to accommodate a slot.it guide and note the 45-50 degree rake as mentioned above.

      The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!

    • #5350

      Lovely example, could we see a ‘topside’ pic too please? And, what gauge brass plate?

      Danke

    • #5351

      The same chassis from the top.

      This was originally a torsion chassis that I later froze with added wire & bracing. The result (with side plates & body) was 3/10 faster than the original design – clocking 5.807 in Targa III. It isn’t pretty but it is whisper quiet and corners on rails. Brass for the tongue is .o30″ stock. :unsure:

      The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!

    • #5356

      Holy sizzling Sidewinders Batman, a petite hair over 5.8…That is COOKIN!! Thanks for the additional pics and info…

    • #7009
      Avatar photoKen

        Sorry about jumping in late but I’m just catching up on stuff. Looks amazing Art!

        What exactly are you using for the guide sleeve? Brass tubing? What size please?

        Thanks,

        Ken

      • #7010

        Like everything in life nothing comes easy – depending on the guide you’ll use you should have a few sizes of brass tube on the ready. Because I recycle a lot of original plastic guides the posts are all over the map. I find that I use 4.0 and 4.5mm brass tube a fair bit and often drill out the tube to give the guide post room to rotate, especially for slot.it guide posts… now that a slot.it guide is approaching $8 each I’m happy to try alternatives… and for most of the lighter and ‘low’ power motor classes (ie. 50GP, 1.5L GP) I use my own DArt guide which is nearly identical to the Ninco classic guide…

        The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!

      • #7011
        Avatar photoKen

          Thank you. That answers the question “do I need to buy a special drill bit?”.

          Ken

        • #7232
          Avatar photoKen

            How thick is the brass sheet for the chassis please?

            Thanks,

            Ken

          • #7237
            Avatar photoKen

              I just researched the base parts and answered my own question.

              .032″ inch brass plate

              .047″ inch wire for the front axle

              .063″ inch wire for the frame and pod

              Thanks,

              Ken

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