• This topic has 12 replies, 6 voices, and was last updated 3 years ago by Avatar photoKen.
Viewing 12 reply threads
  • Author
    Posts
    • #1383

      40/60W Soldering Iron
      Your largest and most important expense for building any piano wire/brass chassis will be your soldering iron. You will need at least a 40W or preferably a 60W soldering iron with a suitable chisel tip, ideally ¼” (but this is a matter of preference). Other smaller tips on lower power irons (20/30W) are perfect for soldering lead wires. There are several manufacturers of suitable soldering irons – Ungar and Cooper/Weller – among others. Make sure you also have an appropriate stand to hold your iron when hot. Better stands come with a tray to hold a replaceable (and less abrasive) damp sponge used to regularly clean your tip.

      Tinning Compound
      New tips may need to be ‘tinned’ prior to first use and whenever required thereafter. Your tip should always look shiny, like melted solder – otherwise it will not work. Simply apply the tinning compound to your hot iron tip then apply your solder. Clean the tip on your damp sponge and repeat until the whole tip is completely tinned.

      Solder
      A rosin core solder containing 60% lead and 40% tin will work very well for both chassis building and lead/electronic joints. Thickness of the solder is a matter of preference. ‘Silver’ solder requires a lot more heat and although it creates stronger joints this is unnecessary for 1/32 10-20v slot car chassis.

      Flux and Pre-Cleaning
      You must use flux when soldering your chassis. While rosin flux is fine for soldering simple electrical joints you will need acid flux when soldering chassis joints. The purpose of the flux is to clean the surfaces so that flowing solder actually penetrates the metal thereby forming a strong joint or chemical bond. Flux also prevents oxidation during the soldering process. If your pieces have corrosion, oil, or any other surface imperfection you must also remove that before beginning the soldering process. Sanding and/or scrubbing may be necessary to adequately clean your pieces. ScotchBrite works nicely as do household cleansing powders such as Ajax or Comet. Acid flux comes in either a paste or in liquid form and while both can be used liquid acid flux is best. If using paste, apply sparingly with a toothpick. If using liquid, apply sparingly with a small paint brush. Brands such as Lucky Bob’s Liquid Acid Flux comes with a convenient applicator. A small bottle of liquid acid flux will last you years.

      Post Cleaning
      Immediately after using acid flux you will need to clean your chassis. Acid flux will corrode all steel pieces or piano wire if it is not removed. Prepare a ‘bath’ for your chassis (and any other items such as jig supports, etc. that come into contact with the flux) again using a household cleansing powder mixed with water to neutralize the acid. Scrub thoroughly with a toothbrush.

      Soldering Surfaces & Jigs
      You will need a flat preferably heat resistant surface on which to solder your chassis pieces, such as a ceramic or porcelain tile or a marble or granite slab. Do not use anything metal. Measure and mark suitably spaced lines or use graph paper to assist with alignment of your chassis pieces. Better yet, make or obtain a ‘jig’ using pre-drilled holes with pins to easily align your chassis pieces. A great purpose built jig is made by Precision Slot Cars such as the 1/32 Scratch Builder jig for both 2mm and 3/32 axles which comes with wheel/axle blocks, guide, axle and chassis pins. The time you will save by using it is well worth the cost. Make sure to get extra wheel/axle blocks to accommodate all possible R32 wheel diameters.

      Pliers/Cutters
      A good sturdy set of linesman’s pliers which can both snip and bend piano wire is essential. You can even cut brass strip. Also helpful to hold small pieces when using a cutting/rotary tool.

      Rotary Tool
      A variable speed rotary tool with cutting wheels, grinding and polishing attachments will let you cut and prep piano wire, brass and brass tube.

      Drill with Assortment of Bits
      Use on a wood block to drill holes in your brass pieces for chassis mounting screws and/or guides, sizing dependant on specific parts. You should mark your hole using a mallet and punch first but be careful not to bend your brass piece. It is best to make all holes in every piece prior to soldering.

      Sandpaper
      You will want to have a range of sandpaper grits to help prep and polish your metal pieces.

      Files
      Filing sides corners and holes to prep pieces and remove excess solder. Both a flat and round file are good to have for these tasks.

      Optional Tools
      A sturdy bench vice or wire bending tool will help with bending wire and to create more complex bends. A ‘nibbler’ makes cutting into brass strip or plate easier, especially when building either a brass pan or torsion plate chassis. A drill press and machine clamp will help you drill more accurate holes.

      Thank you to Al Penrose and Chris Walker for their help and for sharing their vast soldering experience and knowledge.

      The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!

    • #1408
      Avatar photoMiA

        Thanks for posting this Art. :bye:

      • #14673
        Avatar photoKen

          Art makes reference to a build jig above. It’s called a “1/32 Scratch builder Metric” and the part number is #2201.

          Here’s where to get it.

          http://www.pslotcar.com/index.html

          This is what it looks like.

          To say this is a useful tool to a scratch builder, is an understatement.

        • #14682

          Excellent Art, as a new builder I need all the guide lines I can get and this list of items plus the post on how to build are a big help, I already started doing some attempts, I will posted once I am done.

        • #14699

          Does anyone know if either the Imperial or Metric jigs allow building with 1/8th axles?

          I like to build using vintage part sometimes.

        • #14703
          Avatar photoKen

            Hi Bill. I would answer your question if I could. I was not aware that there are many different versions of the 1/32 scratch builder jig. I paid $100 US for the wrong one from Professor Motor when I just started out and have yet to recover enough to buy the right one. That’s what prompted this post.

            Best to buy direct from the manufacturer if you want support for your chassis jig. Professor Motor didn’t send any “build axles” as advertised. I had to buy them after the fact.

            I’m sure the manufacturer will answer your question.

          • #14705

            Thanks Ken. Professor motor are usually pretty good but I have had them forget to include items as well unfortunately.

            I think I may be able to build using 3/32nd axles then swap out the oilites for 1/8th after the build without too much issue.

            From pictures I’ve seen it seems most people favour the metric jig.

          • #14706
            Avatar photoKen

              Bill. Professor Motor is still my supplier of choice for most of their brand stuff. The jigs are better direct only because PM doesn’t usually stock the version we want or I might have bought the right one.

              Bill or Felix. Let me know if either of you want a new Precision Slot Car “tuning fork” chassis jig for 1/24? It’s the bees knees for “tuning fork” design. I’ve used it to align 3-chassis so far. But I used it to line up axles while epoxy was hardening between parts. It’s still new in the bag and never seen heat or solder. It comes with locating pins. I paid $100 USD. Make an offer?

            • #14716
              Anonymous

                Does anyone know if either the Imperial or Metric jigs allow building with 1/8th axles? I like to build using vintage part sometimes.

                Hi Bill, Neither version accommodates 1/8 axles…….that said, you can sleeve the 3/32 axles with 3/32 id x 1/8 od………run the 1/8th sleeve through your 1/8th bushings/chassis and leave it short of the jig pins. :yes:

                Cheers

                Chris Walker

              • #14718

                Great idea thanks Chris!

              • #15207
                Avatar photoKen

                  Dave at Precision Slot Cars is a really nice guy. He’s happily sending me a “1/32 Metric Jig”. :yahoo:

                  Soon I can experiment with the dark side… Brass vs aluminum. B-)

                  I get to become a newbie again. Of sorts. :wacko:

                • #16549
                  Avatar photoKen

                    MiA was kind enough to source a good supplier of soldering irons here in the Toronto area. They are called ITM Instruments.

                    They offer a fairly inexpensive fixed-heat Weller 45-watt stained glass soldering iron that is recommended for brass chassis, and costs around $56.00 Cdn plus tax. Weller model #1140A.

                    https://www.itm.com/product/weller-1140a-stained-glass-soldering-iron

                    Ken

                  • #16720
                    Avatar photoKen

                      The Weller model 1140A iron referred to in the above post was recently discontinued. Things are ever changing.

                      A different iron was recently purchased from Sayal Electronics instead. It was $115 plus tax. It came with a 3/8″ inch tip, but easily accepts 1/4″ and 1/8″ tips with one set screw. It has adjustable heat from 5-watts to 80-watts and is quick to recover.

                  Viewing 12 reply threads
                  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.