Forums Scratch Built Models D’Art Shadow DN1

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    • #13005
      KenKen
      Moderator

      With the Ringwood around the corner. I have race classes to fill. I painted this lovely body last July. Time to get the chassis started.

      With the tires glued and trued. I can start to map out the chassis. Anyone need chassis plans for a DN1? :mail:

      The driver and helmet were easy enough to complete. Two-part helmet and visor are a nice touch.

      Chassis is ready for drilling and cutting. :good:

    • #13006
      KenKen
      Moderator

      Chassis assemby is next. I thought this would be an easy car to slam close to the track. Turns out the bearings or bushings are the limiting factor to the body height. The bearings/bushings hit the inside of the body. It would need shorter tires before you can install fuzzy dice on the mirror and call it a low-rider. It will be more than low enough for a scale look by the time it’s completed.

    • #13015
      KenKen
      Moderator

      The motor I chose for this car is a Scalextric 18k with a short shaft.

      It came with a 9-tooth pinion installed, and a spacer/sleeve for the 2mm groove in the crown gear.

      The class allows a track width of 68.5mm. The back axle can easily handle it. But the car looks ridiculous with the front wheels spaced that far apart. I took about 12mm off the front axle. It looks a little more like the real car.

    • #13038
      KenKen
      Moderator

      With each build I learn something. Fendered cars need tire clearance for fenders. I thought I could slam this car nice and low. Then came the F1 learning curve. This is the first Shadow DN1 build thread so I had little to dig up on the subject.

      The crown gear is the hurdle to lowering the rear of this car. I already know that the motor likes 3/1 gear ratio from the F1 cars we race. 9×27 is typical of the F1 gears. Anything outside 3 to 1 is an experiment. However the 9×27 tooth gear is much larger than an 8×24 combination. I went with a 9×28 to experiment. I had to raise the back of the body to accommodate the large crown gear.

      The front body height is limited by the tire diameter. I left too much meat on the front tires to lower the front more than it is. The car has body float. But bearings almost touch the inside of the body.

      If I were to build this chassis again. I would shave the front tires down to 16mm or 17mm diameter and run 8×24 or 8×25 gear ratio. I might actually make a new chassis for this car after all the classes are filled (getting close :wacko: ).

      It runs, but needs a number and decorations.

      The wire from the motor to the guide did not fit over the front axle because the body is too close. Crossing the wires at the guide allows the guide to move freely with the wire under the axle, and out of the way of the body post. Pinching wires under body posts shorts out the car. I figured that out the hard way.

      This is a simple and fun car to make. The hardest part will be choosing where to put stripes. I look forward to racing a Shadow DN1 for the first time! Thanks for looking. Ken

    • #13050
      ArtArt
      Moderator

      Looks great Ken! :good:

      Remember, nothing wrong with a higher COG, especially when using beefy rear tires with lots of ‘built in’ suspension. Also keep in mind that with bodies that hug the motor and chassis there may not be a need for two mounting posts – you may find that eliminating the rear post is not such a bad thing – and why not try other methods of mounting your body… Cheers!

      Let's Get Building!

    • #13068
      KenKen
      Moderator

      Art. Thank you kindly for your words of encouragement.

      The upcoming Matra build is actually a great candidate for eliminating the rear body post. It’s going to be a snug fit for an aluminum chassis. Okay my brain just went into overtime thinking about how to do it.

      Cheers!

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