• This topic has 26 replies, 6 voices, and was last updated 1 year ago by Avatar photoKen.
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    • #17773
      Avatar photoKen

        This M1B prototype got moved to the front of the build line. The plan is to standardize the M1B for DArt body/KRZ chassis quick-build kits in the near future. Chassis will be designed for slim-line motors to sit flat without the use of any spacers.

        A new paint-booth is under way. I decided to undo the mess I made in the basement kitchen before it became permanent. Anyone would have a hard time to figure out dozens of cars were painted there now.

        This prototype has CX0201 tires with 13×7 wheels on the front. The next prototype will have RM0201 tires with 13×5 wheels on the front.

      • #17774
        Avatar photoKen

          There are many ways to assemble a chassis. This way works well when using an aluminum chassis.

          The first step is to remove the original body posts.

          Axle spacers help keep wheels in line with the chassis. And the chassis in line with the body. It’s good to have a variety of sizes available.

          Install all four bearings (or bushings) with the flange on the outside of the chassis for the purpose of mounting the body posts. (The rear bearings are later removed and reinstalled on the inside of the chassis at the time of final assembly)

          Spacers are installed to take up all the end play. The tires are locked into the body. The body and chassis can’t possibly be missaligned unless the body or tires are off. Always use the largest spacers, and the least number of spacers to prevent a possible spring/spacer effect.

          Laying the chassis and body on the tech block shows that the body sits far too low. The body posts are measured, sanded down by hand, and tested several times until the preferred body height is reached.

          So now the body sits at almost the right height. It will move up 1mm from where it is once the steel and urethane washers are added.

          However, the body rocks back and forth on the posts. Precise spacers are made up from 3-cleaned, new razor blades. They straddle the rocker panels on both sides and provide a very even surface for the body to sit flat to the tech block. Now the body is as flat to the chassis, as the rocker panels can provide.

          Raising the body created end play between the tires and body. I will need to go back and add axle spacers on all 4-corners to take up the play.

          Once the axle spacers are installed and the body sits snug and flat. The body needs to be scratched up where the epoxy/body posts will sit. Mix the epoxy. Apply it to the body, then a small dab on the posts. Sit the body on the chassis making sure the wheels/tires don’t sit too far forward or back in the wheel wells.

          Install the steel and urethane washers. Then remove the extra axle spacers as needed until the tires no longer rub on the body while flexing the body float.

          The next step will be installing the motor, cutting axles to size, and installing the drive gears.

        • #17775
          Avatar photoGI

            Very informative.  Thanks for taking the time to do a step by step post,

          • #17776

            Thanks Ken for this detailed KRZ / M1B chassis setup guide! :good:

            The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!

          • #17814
            Avatar photoKen

              Gary and Art. I humbly thank you both for your kind words.

              The pressure is on for the next step!

            • #17835

              Thank you KRZ for the pictorial essay and detail, greatly appreciated, and very helpful! However, as I’m about to embark on my 1st KRZ build, curious as to how you fix/glue the bushings securely into place for finished product? I know that with accurate spacer configuration, the likelihood of bushing dislodging should in theory be minimal at most, but, do you simply apply a small bead of ‘Super glue’ or Epoxy on bushing flange, then insert, or on chassis opening for bushings, both?

              What’s the secret sauce? I know you’re trying to make your assembly idiot-proof, and I don’t want to prove you wrong! LMAO.

              Thanks again.

               

            • #17836
              Avatar photoKen

                Hi Drew,

                There’s a small tutorial called “How to install body posts” in the KRZ chassis area. I humbly thank Art for creating that section.

                Body posts

                In short. You are correct. A good dab of epoxy in the body where the posts will sit. A small dab on both posts just before laying the body on the chassis. The body goes on the chassis so the epoxy pools to the post. Here are some examples.

              • #17837
                Anonymous

                  Thank you KRZ for the pictorial essay and detail, greatly appreciated, and very helpful! However, as I’m about to embark on my 1st KRZ build, curious as to how you fix/glue the bushings securely into place for finished product? I know that with accurate spacer configuration, the likelihood of bushing dislodging should in theory be minimal at most, but, do you simply apply a small bead of ‘Super glue’ or Epoxy on bushing flange, then insert, or on chassis opening for bushings, both? What’s the secret sauce? I know you’re trying to make your assembly idiot-proof, and I don’t want to prove you wrong! LMAO. Thanks again.

                   

                  You may want to consider using “Red” Locktite to secure bushings/bearings in you aluminum chassis…..it will hold better than CA/epoxy, and if/when you need to remove/replace your bushings a touch on the bushing/bearing with a hot soldering iron will soften the locktite, and they will be easy to remove. Locktite has been used to secure bushings/bearing for decades.

                  Make sure that you install an axle and both bushings in the chassis before gluing, this will reduce the chance of them not aligning properly.

                  The following is an easy/effective procedure……..

                  1/Use some wheels/tires and some spacers and set the lateral axle  spacing so that there is just a 1/16 of sideplay…enough so that you can a see a small gap between the axle upright face and the bushing flange, without the bushing falling out of the hole in the upright.

                  2/ Using a toothpick, apply a small amount of locktite between the flange and the face of the axle upright..(2 or 3 spots around the bushing is good.

                  3/ Push the wheel so that the bushing slides into the upright, and using some lateral pressure to keep the bushing seated, roll the chassis back and forth on a flat surface for 30/40 seconds…….this will align the bushing bore to the axle.

                  4/ Wait a few minutes and repeat on the other side.

                  Cheers

                  Chris Walker

                • #17838
                  Avatar photoKen

                    Chris. Thank you very kindly for noticing that I skipped over that question. Drew and I just got off the phone about the topic of body posts so I responded to his verbal question. Good advice.

                  • #17846

                    Thanks all for the assistance, and Chris, excellent detail as always, greatly appreciated! Now off to find what appears to be Unobtanium in Milton…

                    Red Locktite…”Permatex” appears en vogue, Home Hardware, Crappy Tire, HD… Hope it will do the trick

                  • #17848
                    Anonymous

                      Thanks all for the assistance, and Chris, excellent detail as always, greatly appreciated! Now off to find what appears to be Unobtanium in Milton… Red Locktite…”Permatex” appears en vogue, Home Hardware, Crappy Tire, HD… Hope it will do the trick

                       

                      Permatex “Red” threadlocker is the same stuff……….happy to have helped.

                       

                      Cheers

                      Chris Walker

                    • #18609
                      Avatar photoKen

                        Some progress… Tamiya TS-34 Camel Yellow. No clear coat.

                        The body is mounted to the chassis. The final assembly is next. :good:

                      • #18710
                        Avatar photoKen

                          I brought the camel yellow M1B to the “Show & Tell” today. It was a fun meeting. :yahoo:

                          I found a suitable livery. Hopefully it will look like this by the end of the week.

                          • #25261

                            A contemporary orange take of the original red livery. I believe never raced in orange but fabulous nonetheless!

                            Please remember that fantasy period liveries are more than acceptable in our pre-CANAM (SCCA/USRRC) class…

                            Cheers!

                             

                            The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!

                        • #18744
                          Avatar photoKen

                            A little more progress on the McLaren.

                            The car runs and corners well at 60-grams. The body details and inserts are next on the list to complete.

                            Slow class SCCA here we come! :yahoo:

                          • #25174
                            Avatar photoKen

                              I found this picture Google Images of an M1B that has the title “Bruce McLaren 1966”. It’s a different car from the one above although it looks the same. The old chrome mirrors are quick to note instead of the new style black mirrors on the copy-cat.

                              It sure does look like it’s an older photo. But I’m not an expert. Does this car look like a legit livery? Thanks in advance for your comments.

                               

                              • #25197
                                Chris Walker

                                  Absolutely a legit livery,……..Bruces’ car from the 66 Players 200………that said I am somewhat surprised that you of all people are concerned over “legit” liveries. !!!

                                  Cheers

                                  Chris Walker

                                   

                                  Bruce at the Players 200.

                                  I built mine to represent Bruces’ car from Mt. Tremblant the same year (picture below)

                                  And my attempt……

                                   

                                • #25263

                                  Beautiful build Chris! I have never seen a model built as accurately as yours! Fantastico!

                                  Cheers!

                                  The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!

                                • #25280
                                  Avatar photoF1nutz

                                    Looks great!

                                    OT Chris I had a look through my stuff and only have the white Chappy 2D. Sorry.

                                  • #25291

                                    Duplicate post removed

                                • #25241

                                  Looks like Bruce to me…

                                • #25285

                                  Ken,

                                  Great looking build so far!!!

                                  Are you going to paint or decal the white stripe?

                                  The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!

                                • #25288
                                  Avatar photoKen

                                    The car has sat unfinished. Something knocked the wind out of my enthusiasm to complete it.

                                  • #25289
                                    Avatar photoKen

                                      I thought the M1B was offered in camel yellow. I should have done more homework. This M1B was repainted in it’s 1967 livery colour. I missed a good one.

                                      Here’s the documentation on “Bring a Trailer”.

                                      1966 McLaren M1B

                                    • #25290

                                      Looks great so far Ken. I hope you get around to finishing it.

                                       

                                    • #25319

                                      Wow! That blue livery does look great! Thanks for sharing that!

                                      You’ve done a great job so far Ken! Looks like your M1B just needs number decals and it is finished… regardless of whether you decide to add a stripe or not. Either way it looks like it will be a great livery in the style of the period! Often period fantasy liveries can look much more appealing than the actual livery a car raced in – so kudos to you and others creative enough to experiment with different colours like you have.

                                      I’ve often looked at that picture of the orange M1B with the white stripe and thought that a black stripe might look really good too. Food for thought…

                                      Stripe or no stripe your paint on that model is second to none!!! The fact that you don’t even wet sand between coats or use a clear coat elevates your painting prowess beyond anyone else I’ve seen in this scale. You are truly a master painter without peer!!!

                                      Now finish those decals!!!

                                      The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!

                                    • #25341
                                      Avatar photoKen

                                        Art,

                                        I am humbled by your kind words and do not feel worthy of them. There are several master painters around here. You included.

                                        You were kind enough to sell me a second M1B kit. There is no question what colour that car will be.

                                        Cheers,

                                        Ken

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