• This topic has 41 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 3 years ago by Avatar photoKen.
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    • #14164
      Avatar photoKen

        I stumbled across a very detailed kit last year I thought was a loner. At the Group25 show last weekend, I discovered there is a series of these cars. Gunze Sangyo is the manufacturer of these stunning 1/32 kits. You rarely see this type of detail. The chrome is over the top and really sparkles.

        There 7-cars to choose from: A 1955 Chevy Nomad, 57 Chevy Belair, 57 Caddy Brougham, 59 Caddy Seville, 59 Impala Sport, 59 Fairlane 500, and a 63 Thunderbird.

        Many are around $25 on EBay.

         

        The 59 Impala comes with 4-options for the roof. Open back seat, rear seat cover, soft top, or hard top.

        The 63 Thunderbird comes with 3-options for the roof. Open back seat, tonneau cover, or full roof.

        Art saw these kits at the show and it inspired him enough to suggest a new class of street racers without numbers. May I suggest it be called “Boulevard Cruisers”? White walls, low riders, slow motors…

        I also located a 59 Eldorado Biarritz. It’s supposed to arrive next week. I really hope this turns into a new class in the future as Art suggested. These cars from Gunze Sangyo are stunningly beautiful!

        EBay search “gunze sangyo 1/32”

      • #14165

        Nice I have the Impala already built up with a vintage Monogram chassis and managed to find the 57 Caddy at the show on the weekend. Both are great models.

      • #14167
        Avatar photoKen

          That’s very cool F1nutz. Let’s see a pic of your Impala please?

        • #14168
          Avatar photoKen

            Here are some pics of the other kits from this manufacturer.

          • #14169

            Some fantastic models!!! :good:

            The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!

          • #14188

            Impala Convertible on a Monogram chassis

            .

          • #14191
            Avatar photoKen

              Very nice F1nutz!!! You’re officially the first one with a Boulevard Cruiser.

              I think street racers only had one white number painted on the passenger side of the front windshield. That way they could be easily cleaned up and taken to work the next day without drawing too much attention.

              What’s in it for a motor?

            • #14194

              Motor is a standard vintage Monogram 16D. Chassis is vintage Monogram as well.

            • #14199

              Some very interesting ideas here. I’m hoping that for this series, people won’t be stuck in an inline marriage!

              I bought an excellent kit last summer and have been planning the chassis, body finishes, and detailing. I was intending to just run it a few laps once in a while, just for a change in scenery. I’m sure most will find it interesting. (I won’t say what it is just yet; it’s not one mentioned so far.) Now that there may be a series, it will fit in perfectly, but can’t be run in a race if the requirement is going to be inline rear motor.

              As I say, I’ve already done the basic chassis plan, and it will be sidewinder drivetrain. These cars have lots of room for a sidewind transmission. There’s no point using an inferior drive train assembly, unless there are space restrictions such as in 50’s GP cars. (Hey, if your marriage is going great and you are still deeply on love with inline, that’s fine; you can still use it, but let’s not restrict it to that!)

              Just an afterthought: Perhaps the most appropriate drive train for this series would be front motor mounted directly behind the front axle, to rear drive inline! If we are going for realism, that may be the best assembly. (And it would also avoid some of the deficiencies and limitations inherent in rear motor inline.)

              This could be a very interesting series; a good range of colourful cars and an opportunity for creative chassis and bodywork.

               

            • #14200
              Avatar photoKen

                Hi Felix. Thank you very kindly for your input. The rules are not yet made for this class. But they will be made based on everyone’s ideas.

                The only ideas that came up to keep things even so far are:

                1) Any full size car from the 50’s and 60’s (Station wagons most welcome)

                2) One number on the passenger side windshield or licence plate(s) keeping the paint clean.

                3) Any slow motor – any style of drive as per Felix suggestion above. Put the motor where you want.

                4) 14×5 wheels. White wall tires recommended.

                I’m in favour of a minimum weight of 85-grams?

                Anyone else want to suggestion something so we can start building?

              • #14203

                Gents,

                This looks to be a class with a lot of potential. Since it seems like we are building momentum with this here are my thoughts:

                1) Will this also be an R32 class or just a Scratch32 class requiring a scratch built component? Assuming it will be just a Scratch32 class then…

                2) Are alternate heavy slush poured resin bodies a welcome alternative because there may not be many plastic kits available? I’m not sure the plastic kits are all exhausted…. but they may be soon – who knows? If they will be then a minimum weight may be necessary…

                3) I’m not convinced we need limits on wheels or even on motor configuration…

                4) Two classes – A low power motor (any configuration) and an unlimited motor (any configuration) would make it easy to integrate the ideas suggested and the models presented so far… if it were to become clear that a particular motor configuration has an advantage then we can further divide the classes based on motor configuration (ie. front, mid, side/angle)…

                5) Race Numbers – Whether like hot rods or no number I’m not really convinced we need a visible number…  I am inclined to suggest for the purpose of the database we do have a number associated with each model – but that number can be made visible just on the chassis somewhere for identification purposes…

                It may be fun to change the format for these street racers – using something that Ken and I discussed – a chase format where two boulevard cruisers are on the run in gutter lanes and a period appropriate police cruiser gives chase in the middle lane. Number of laps until a crash or being caught by the police determines the heat result…

                …if we start off with no numbers and no minimum weight those can always be added easily if needed…

                …these are just a few ideas to add to the discussion for consideration… cheers! :good:

                The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!

              • #14207
                Avatar photoKen

                  Just my humble suggestions…

                  1) S32 already welcomes store bought plastic chassis if you paint/detail the body. I hope to do some experimenting with nice paint. R32 races are often “win the race even if it means the risk of crashing into another car”. Crashing into another car for an R32 driver doesn’t carry the same meaning as with an S32 driver. Let’s please keep this class to an S32 level.

                  2) I checked EBay for the Gunze Sangyo kits before I started this thread and even though they are discontinued, they are all over EBay. Jonathan was kind enough to buy a 59 Eldorado Seville/Biarritz for me as a test since I don’t have an EBay account (Thank you kindly Jonathan). The kit was $8 “buy now”, plus $10 shipping to my niece in Buffalo. There are lots of these kits out there for everyone. No shortages of the Gunze line of kits. All 7-kits are available to everyone. Add the fact that some of these kits can be built up to 4-different ways… now we have incredible variety even within just these 7-kits. There may be other brands available too. I stopped looking after I discovered these little diamonds littering EBay.

                  3) I agree.

                  4) The goal for me is to build cars that look like “eye candy”. No numbers or decals means you really see the paint. More time spent on making the paint and finish perfect. Cars with paint I would never want to scratch. I am not in favour of building a fast class Boulevard Cruiser. Too much risk at ruining the finish.

                  5) I agree.

                  I do remember that conversation about the chase car. When do I start on Sheriff Buford T. Justice’s chase car? :yahoo:

                  I hope other members can chime in and make positive suggestions? I’m eager to start building cars for this class more than any other before it. I’ve always wanted to build a car without decals or numbers. This is it.

                  Cheers,

                  Ken

                   

                • #14211

                  Hello Gentlemen Racers and fellow ‘Slot Addictos’:

                  Art’s summary and Ken’s reply sound very good, and workable.  (F1NUTS: the car and driver look great!)

                  Just for interest, if anyone is curious as to why I prefer to avoid inline transmissions, I have devised a test you can do at home to make your own observations. My hypothesis is that during increase in the motor RPM there will be an observable reaction (other than acceleration) onto the chassis as a whole, that will not be conducive to the car’s performance.

                  Along with other limitations, there is an inherent inescapable deficiency in the dynamics of the inline system. I can show you all of the torque, angular momentum, and force-couple equations, but we may just get bogged down in equations and loose the physics behind them; it would be much more convincing for you to see the effect for yourself.

                  Take an inline-drive car and remove the body. Attach a long flexible thin conductor (such as a lead wire) to each of your guide brushes (either by tape, or looped under the brush, or connected to the brush to motor-wire junction). Loop a long thin string to the front of the chassis around the hole for the guide. Connect the other ends of your flexible wires to your power supply set at about 9 V. Hold up the string and flexible wires so that the chassis hangs freely in the vertical plane. Switch on your power supply, and observe what happens as the power surges, (as it would when you quickly press the controller trigger).

                  I’ve tried this just now with a 32’nd scale car. The result is evident and does have an effect on the dynamics of the chassis. (The effect may be subtle – but still present, if you are using a motor with a light armature, small armature radius, or slow rotation [The first two factors would contribute to a low moment of inertia. The three factors together would now contribute to a low angular momentum.] .)   But I should note that, because of the lighter armatures in 32’nd scale, this may have no net effect on the overall performance of the car (in this scale). However, my participation in the hobby has never been about lap times, or about beating out the other guys; I just want to build the best chassis possible with my limited abilities, so it’s more of a theoretical consideration for me.

                  If you give it a try, let me know what you observe, and we can do the follow-up analysis.

                  Felix.

                  I used to be one of the sharpest tools in the shed; now I’m just a slot-head !

                  There is nothing quite as practical as, the right theory !

                • #14213
                  Avatar photoKen

                    Hi Felix,

                    This is a fun discussion. I have some technical questions concerning your tests to help me understand.

                    Is it farther to New York? Or by bus?

                    How long is a piece of string?

                    Once attached to the string. Does the car occilate perpendicular to the axis of the earth’s rotation?

                    Does an explosion make noise in outer-space? If an explosion needs air to produce a shock-wave. Can you stand beside an explosion in outer-space and not get hurt? So many questions…

                    I actually like in-line configuration for slow-class cars. But also figured out how to make it work. It took some time, and a bit of luck. But this topic probably requires a separate thread. This is about getting Boulevard Cruisers to become a new class.

                    In my brief experience as a builder. You can’t hit full throttle in the corners where the inline twist you speak of has it’s adverse effects. If you straighten the car out before hitting full throttle coming out of the corners. It’s not so bad. Slow cars have very little difference either way other than different choices of gear ratios.

                    Fast cars often prefer sidewinder/anglewinder configuration for a more efficient power transfer. Fast inline cars will twist like crazy under the torque of some of these insane and powerful new motors.

                    Your point is well taken Felix. Life is balance. :good:

                    I can’t wait much longer. I’m going to start looking at what this 63 T-Bird needs to be completed. I’ve always wanted one of those old Thunderbirds with that cool tonneau cover that has a double head-rest. :yahoo:

                  • #14224
                    Avatar photoKen

                      I found a 59 Fairlane 500 Skyliner kit for $14 plus $7 shipping. We have a police car!

                      This will be the obvious colour. Note it’s a 2-door cruiser. They actually made 2-door police cars back then. Sporty! :good:

                    • #14225

                      HAha Interesting addition Ken. Funnily enough when we ran a street class in our HO racing group I ran a cop car ;^)

                      I also usually lost. I think it gave the other competitors more speed in out trying to outrun me.

                    • #14226
                      Avatar photoKen

                        This cruiser will have the old famous “Police interceptor” motor. It should be able to catch any red-light runner in the slow motor class no matter who the driver is. The only difference will be how many laps did it take for the cruiser to catch you? 😉

                      • #14227

                        That’s a great looking police cruiser! :good:

                        The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!

                      • #14306
                        Avatar photoKen

                          My niece was kind enough to throw the Fairlane 500 Skyliner kit into the mail for me. Perfect to add to the build list. However, gloss black is one colour I’ve never bought. I’ve never wanted a black slot car before. How do you buy black paint for a police car when everything is closed?

                          So I took a chance and called several hobby shops until someone answered the phone. John’s Hobbies answered and had the paint in stock. He says “How do you want it shipped? Canada Post or floor-mail?” I just laughed. I paid for the items in advance with my credit card. Called again when I pulled up to the store and it was on the floor just outside a locked door with one of the owners waving from behind the glass. I met not one person during the 20-minute trip which to me was an essential or I would not be able to continue building slot cars. I stayed within the boundries of self-isolation. Mission accomplished.

                          Happy building on whatever you’re building!

                          Ken

                        • #14384
                          Avatar photoKen

                            Hey Felix. Just to dispel your idea of this class being married to inline drive. My cruiser is an anglewinder to allow enough space for a full interior. :yahoo:

                             

                          • #14474
                            Avatar photoKen

                              The police car came in the mail today. Ugly car… stunning kit!

                              59 Eldorado Biarritz also came in. Another beautifully made kit.

                              The chrome tail-fins are attached to the bumper. Nice detail. :good:

                              My concern was that the Caddy might be too long to run on our tracks. So I set a Charger Daytona beside it and found that the Caddy is slightly shorter than the Charger. Perfect. The Caddy is the largest of the Boulevard Cruisers, but can race without any size issues. Although 3-Caddys head-to-head might be an interesting challenge to witness.

                            • #14477
                              Avatar photoKen

                                The police car…

                              • #14490

                                Hi Ken: Sorry I didn’t see your reply from April 2, 2020 at 11:59 pm, #14384  until now. I’ve been juggling other work, family, and a major offsite project. (In any case, my posts were being blocked by the forum at the time; The author and submit time were listed, but they weren’t publishing and wouldn’t open on the site.) I am impressed by the builds that people have been working on. Unfortunately, I have not been free to spend any time at my workbench.

                                Yes, allowance for a full interior is one nice advantage to sidewinder/anglewinder transmissions. There are quite a few others. I should write up a full discussion at some point.*   The purpose of my March 15 post was to try to get people to consider the sidewinder alternative; just makes a lot more sense for many reasons, whenever there is room available.

                                Your car looks very good, probably even better than the photos. I built a 25’th scale AMT static model of the ’63 Thunderbird when I was a kid, and with that nice integrated tonneau cover as well. I had planned to use one for my car in this series (different car from yours- leaving it a little mystery for now). If I can’t make the right tonneau shape from scratch I may just do the car in hardtop. I’ve also been trying to locate the Gunze Sangyo kit of the ’57 Cadillac Eldorado Brougham, but the only ones I can find come to C$89 + 5% PayPal exchange surcharge; a bit too high.  Keep up the good work.

                                There is nothing quite as practical as, the right theory !

                              • #14492
                                Avatar photoKen

                                  Hi Felix. I just searched EBay.com and a Gunze Sangyo 57 Caddy exactly like the one you’re looking for came up for $19.88 “buy now”. It’s USD but it’s way better than $90 Cdn.

                                  https://www.ebay.com/itm/Gunze-Sangyo-G-174-1957-Cadillac-Eldorado-Brougham-1-32-Model-Car-Mountain-NIB/362966066743?hash=item548276a637:g:z~YAAOSwhzZejkjc

                                  Don’t hesitate! Ships worldwide. Good luck!

                                  Cheers,

                                  Ken

                                • #14497

                                  Thanks Ken; you sure have a skill for finding some nice kits!

                                  I could only find one of these from Japan and the other from Hong Kong, both coming to C$90. I did a search under ‘find similar items’ and the one from this seller didn’t appear. I already had the blue ’63 Thunderbird in my watch list from this seller and it showed ‘this item is out of stock’ by the seller. After I found the Cadillac from your note, I looked at the seller’s other items and found that he did in fact have another identical copy of the ’63 Thunderbird (blue). The ’57 Cadillac may have appeared the same way. I found that the shipping cost of $21.50 usd, or C$31 was a bit high for just one kit so I ordered both. I’m now waiting for a reply invoice with the combined shipping.  (By the way, Gunze Sangyo made a great line of 24’th scale kits. I was tempted to add their Triumph TR3 listed by the same seller, had it in my cart then dropped it just before I asked for the invoice. It was from their regular series. I already have their Ferrari 250GTO and the Jaguar XKE from their excellent “High Tech” multi media series. Sorry, can’t seem to help myself from referencing that ‘other scale’ – should be banned!)

                                  Thanks for alerting me to the Cadillac listing; I had a feeling that you might come through with an idea!  :yahoo:

                                • #14498
                                  Avatar photoKen

                                    That’s great that you took advantage of the opportunity Felix. Congrats! :good:

                                    I’m sure you will enjoy building those kits. :yes:

                                    What is this 1/24 thing you speak of? Must be another language. :yahoo:

                                  • #14499

                                    Another source for these kits sometimes is Hobby Linc Japan as well as the Arii Microace kits for less than $10 cdn. they occasionally have Gunze Sangyo kits for around $15. I’ve ordered from them before and shipping is reasonable and fast.

                                    You have to keep looking though as their stock changes regularly. Don’t see any of them on there atm though.

                                    https://www.hlj.com/search/go?format=category&isort=globalpop&lbc=hobbylink&method=and&p=Q&ts=custom&uid=905797165&w=*&af=selectmanufacturer%3amicroace%20selectscale%3a132scale%20category%3aaut

                                  • #14675

                                    Hi gents:

                                    My Gunze Sangyo 1/32’nd kits finally arrived yesterday, after 22 days. I was most interested in the “1957 Cadillac Eldorado Brougham”, but I added the “1963 Ford Thunderbird Blue”, in order to make better use of the high ship rate. The Thunderbird was advertised as the blue cast body, but it came in the red version. I had been planning on light pastel blue colours for each for each, but on the red body, I will  have to search for another appropriate colour. In order to go from bright red to light blue, I would have to use the heavier grade Grey primer spray, which would likely hide some of the fine detail.

                                     

                                     

                                    The kits are of fairly good quality, as already noted in this topic. The T-bird body is very light, very thin (and translucent), flexible. The Cadillac body is noticeably thicker. (I did not ‘weigh’ them since one is hardtop and the other isn’t.) They both have wider bodies that the original model I had bought last summer and was planning to use in this Cruiser series, so there is a chance that I may be able to fit a full sidewinder transmission in them. (Gunze has already supplied pinion and spur gears in the T-Bird kit, so maybe all I need to buy is a motor?!)

                                    I am anxious to start on the builds. It looks like some have had a lot of time for the hobby during this lockdown; I’ve been busy as ever, with other projects and a couple of things that came up unexpectedly. In any case, I don’t want to get ahead of myself; the top experts (those without a political agenda) are predicting that we will be in this state for another two years. Even then, I don’t know if we will ever get back to overlapping elbows and sharing the same breathing space. Who knows; we’ll hope for the best.

                                    Felix.

                                    • #16093

                                      Felix, let me know if you want to sell one of these kits and please let me know how much…

                                      Cheers!

                                      The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!

                                  • #14678
                                    Avatar photoKen

                                      Hi Felix,

                                      Congrats that your kits arrived. :good:

                                      The T-Bird and some of the other kits have a pocket in the chassis for 2 x triple “A” batteries and a toy motor to be installed as an option. Something to do with letting the car go free on the floor until it hits something… bad planning. I would suggest you discard the gears that came with the kit and install some quality brand name gears of your choice.

                                      There is a copper axle in the bag with the gears. Don’t throw that away. I installed the axle in my drill. Pressed the wheels on the axle. Then spun the wheel on sand paper to turn them down to fit the Slot.It wheels. A dremel quickly removed the axle stub afterwards. They became the sparkly inserts.

                                      When covid19 started out. The media said it was going to be over quickly. Now they say the opposite. The pendulum swings and usually stops in the middle somewhere. I’m hoping/praying for a vaccine. Tensions and stress levels are way too high these days.

                                      Best of luck with your builds. Please start a build thread and pose any questions you run into thoughout the build. We’re here to help.

                                    • #14680
                                      Avatar photoKen

                                        Felix. One thing I forgot to add. Be very careful with the windshield frame on the T-Bird after you remove the support. It’s very easy to break before the windshield goes in. I broke the frame on the Impala and used plastic-weld to repair it. Luckily the Impala came with a hard top option to cover my mistake.

                                      • #14698

                                        Nice kits Felix! I look forward to the builds.

                                        In the past I’ve used metallic colours like silver or gold as a base coat to help prevent plastic colors affecting top paint colours.

                                        I once built the 1/24 Whistler Mustang T/A car which was molded in red plastic but has large areas of white in the paint scheme.

                                        I tried several times with multiple layers of primer and multiple layers of white only to have the white areas come out a little pinkish.

                                        I stripped it down several times and once I base coated with silver and top coated with white the red no longer bled through.

                                        Happy building!

                                        Bill

                                      • #14702

                                        Thank you, Ken, Bill, for your excellent suggestions. I have made note of them as reference for when I get to the build. With the new body width, I am now working on adjusting my chassis plan.

                                         

                                      • #14708
                                        Avatar photoKen

                                          A thought occured to me on how the information you both provide is very useful to everyone.

                                          Bill. Would you be so kind as to put your great advise on how to paint white over red in the “How to paint it” section of the forums? I was not aware.

                                          Felix. Can you please expose your cool article on making symetrical stripes as you did for Luis in the “Decals” section of the forums?

                                          That way your gracious help will remain for everyone in the future. Thank you kindly in advance. :good:

                                        • #14709
                                          Avatar photoKen

                                            Felix. Maybe I was mistaken about the “Decals” section. Your article is about “How to paint it”. Oops. :wacko:

                                            Thanks again!

                                          • #14736

                                            I am feeling very inadequate!  I see most members producing all these great builds, and I have nothing to show for. I’m sorry that I don’t have the needed time to devote to the hobby. I feel like I’m letting down the cause, letting down the other fellows. (No need to reply; not looking for sympathy.) I will try to help on the forum whenever I can.

                                            Thanks for your note Ken. Sorry for my late reply, I don’t often get time to check the forum on time. You’re right; I’ve encountered some very useful information hidden in the body of other posts. It’s often hard to find it later. I’m not sure that my suggestions to Luis fall into the category of ones worth duplicating, but I will do a bit of editing and post it in the ‘Resources forum, How to paint it’.

                                             

                                          • #14751
                                            Avatar photoKen

                                              Hey Felix. Please fight the urge to get depressed. Specially in this strange time of Covid19. So long as you still breath. You can still make a difference. You have experiences that are unique to your life. It’s never a waste to share these good experiences. :good:

                                            • #14958
                                              Avatar photoKen

                                                Hey Felix. Good news. Art just clarified that “S32 slow Sportscars” can be any drive configuration you wish. It’s only “R32 slow Sportscars” that must be inline.

                                                That should help make it easier for you to plan your next S32 build. The sky is the limit. :good:

                                              • #15044
                                                Avatar photoKen

                                                  “HobbyLink Japan” updated their site on the Gunze Sangyo 1957 Cadillac Eldorado Brougham to state the following:

                                                  “This item is discontinued and is not expected to come back into stock.”

                                                  Congrats to everyone that didn’t wait for HobbyLink to re-stock their shelves, and bought one of these on their own. It wasn’t meant to be any other way. :good:

                                                  I can hardly wait for the first “Cruise night”. B-)

                                                • #16091
                                                  Avatar photoKen

                                                    Two get-a-way cars, and one Police cruiser awaiting an infraction of the law. Speeding maybe? :whistle:

                                                  • #16297

                                                    Well, after a successful test session earlier this week with these new Boulevard Cruisers we officially now have a new class for Scratch32:

                                                    Boulevard Cruisers (BC)

                                                    • Eligible models include mid ’50s through mid ’60’s North American production models such as those in the Gunze Sangyo series as Ken has listed above;
                                                    • Models must use a BWNC1 (low power) motor;
                                                    • No racing numbers/decals… (although a number must be assigned and should be scribed to the underside of the chassis – for model identification purposes.

                                                    Pretty simple rules. If you feel the need to stray from them give yourself a pinch…

                                                    A few tips to get anyone up and running competitively (and quickly):

                                                    • Stick to the Gunze Sangyo models for your body – they are of great quality and because they are long and wide can accommodate nearly any chassis or chassis configuration…
                                                    • Side or anglewinder configurations using a low nearly 2:1 ratio are optimal – so you will want a 13 or 14 tooth pinion coupled with a 28 or 30 tooth spur gear (unless you go inline)…
                                                    • Unless you are a seasoned chassis builder do yourself a favour and use one of Ken’s aluminium chassis since they perform exceptionally well and are evenly matched… and without any weight added!
                                                    • Use a D8, D9 or D11 tire on a 14mm wheel to ensure your gearing/ratio is adequate (if you want white walls please advise since I’m currently sold out and making more – but I may not make the size you need right away unless you let me know in advance)…

                                                    We plan to have this class added to one of our regular events which will take place either at the end of this month or early October, so get your kit and order your chassis from Ken ASAP!!! With one of Ken’s chassis you should have your model painted and running in no time.

                                                    As with Sportscars we’ll have a few sub classes within the class to encourage hard tops and front motor chassis…

                                                    Thanks to Ken and JMSracer whose beautiful models are pictured below!

                                                    The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler!

                                                  • #16305
                                                    Avatar photoKen

                                                      Thanks a million to Jim and Art for helping to get this class started! :yahoo:

                                                      I would also thank you for your kind words Art. I am humbled.

                                                      I will gladly build chassis for other Gunze cars once I know the specs. I’ve posted 4-different chassis where the cars have hardtops, or convertible versions of the same kits.

                                                      I just need the specs for the 57 Chevy Belair, 57 Caddy, and 55 Nomad to offer chassis’s for almost every model Gunze makes.

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