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    • #17540
      f1nutzf1nutz
      Moderator

      Ok so of the few gasser eligible kits I have I decided on this one.

       

      • This topic was modified 2 months, 2 weeks ago by f1nutzf1nutz.
      • This topic was modified 2 months, 2 weeks ago by f1nutzf1nutz.
      • This topic was modified 2 months, 2 weeks ago by f1nutzf1nutz.
    • #17547
      f1nutzf1nutz
      Moderator

      The weather was nice outside so I added a quick splash of gloss black.

      • This reply was modified 2 months, 2 weeks ago by f1nutzf1nutz.
    • #17549
      KenKen
      Moderator

      F1nutz. An original. The 1965 is a great looking bodystyle. Who makes it?

      Even though I may be new at this myself. How can I help you build your car?

    • #17550
      f1nutzf1nutz
      Moderator

      In case you’re wondering about the thread title…

    • #17551
      f1nutzf1nutz
      Moderator

      It’s an old Monogram kit from the 70’s.

      Now to search for some appropriate decals.

      That could take some digging…

    • #17552
      f1nutzf1nutz
      Moderator

      It was originally a slot car body by Aurora but inthink Monogram then released it as a model kit. Looks like the same mold.

    • #17553
      f1nutzf1nutz
      Moderator

      Here is the original Aurora K&B slot car.

      • This reply was modified 2 months, 2 weeks ago by f1nutzf1nutz.
    • #17554
      f1nutzf1nutz
      Moderator

      It is a little worn but all there. The original plastic color is red but this one was painted when I got it years ago.

      Ken you’re going to love the chassis ;) your favorite material.

       

    • #17559
      AvatarChris Walker
      Member

      Very cool Bill…….!!, I gather you are not planning to use the old K&B chassis ??

      Here is a pic. of a restored/modified 1965 K&B chassis……..it has had some motor work done, and to enable it to be quickly restored to stock, the side pans were designed so that they bolted into the original chassis holes on this 1/24th chassis.

      With the mods. done it runs very well……..but, from a performance perspective, 1965 was basically the end of the solid aluminum chassis ;-)

       

       

      Cheers

      Chris Walker

      • This reply was modified 2 months, 2 weeks ago by AvatarChris Walker.
    • #17561
      KenKen
      Moderator

      Thank you very kindly Bill. Now I know where this body mold came from.

      My Barracuda will eventually be a slow class SCCA racer. Your gasser will always be the original. :good:

      Even though I may be new at this myself. How can I help you build your car?

    • #17562
      f1nutzf1nutz
      Moderator

      Nice work as always Chris! The stock chassis on mine actually performs fairly well but I will be building a chassis for the orange body.

      I do recall another K&B you tuned quite well in the past. The quickest I had seen.

      Glad you have the kit as well Ken. I’m sure yours will no doubt be completed first.

    • #17564
      KenKen
      Moderator

      Bill. Yours will be first. My front grills are stuck in Buffalo since the first lockdown. They won’t be here for a long while yet.

      Chris. I like your brass side plates that sit level with the base of the strange alloy chassis material. The chassis is made of… Unobtainium?

      The aluminum chassis looks as if it started out as flat sheets. Then the interlocking channels got stamped into shape? Just asking for the sake of knowledge. I’ve never seen one up close. Thank you very kindly.

      Even though I may be new at this myself. How can I help you build your car?

    • #17565
      GI
      Member

      I’m curious as to whether you guys will be building these Gassers with the body position or chassis high off the ground?

    • #17566
      AvatarChris Walker
      Member

      Chris. I like your brass side plates that sit level with the base of the strange alloy chassis material. The chassis is made of… Unobtainium? The aluminum chassis looks as if it started out as flat sheets. Then the interlocking channels got stamped into shape? Just asking for the sake of knowledge. I’ve never seen one up close. Thank you very kindly.

       

      Hello Ken, All of the mid 60’s Aluminum chassis were stamped,…..so, yes, they would have started as flat sheets…….there were many fairly intricate stamped aluminum chassis,…..the Cox “Iso” likely the most famous/best performing.

       

      Here is a pic. of one of my Cox “Iso” chassis……….it has been modified with the addition of a brass center section weight, and a nut/bolt through the top of the front main crossmember to limit the center section (drop arm ) vertical movement.

       

      Cheers

      Chris Walker

      • This reply was modified 2 months, 2 weeks ago by AvatarChris Walker.
    • #17568
      KenKen
      Moderator

      Chris. Thank you very kindly for the detailed explanation. That’s also a very slick looking chassis with the drop-arm. :good:

      I dream of building a “wheelie” car one day with the drop-arm idea. That might a be cool idea to add to our latest gasser class? :whistle:

      Even though I may be new at this myself. How can I help you build your car?

    • #17569
      f1nutzf1nutz
      Moderator

      Hahaha I just noticed the booster neo magnets on Chris’s K&B motor. Do they give much boost Chris?

      The chassis is made with 2 piece aluminum sleeves so you can adjust the wheelbase Ken and it has a pancake motor mounted on its side so you’d love it!

       

      • #17574
        AvatarChris Walker
        Member

        Hahaha I just noticed the booster neo magnets on Chris’s K&B motor. Do they give much boost Chris? The chassis is made with 2 piece aluminum sleeves so you can adjust the wheelbase Ken and it has a pancake motor mounted on its side so you’d love it!

         

        Well spotted Bill,……….the neo magnets do help the rather feeble magnets in these motors…….a bit more grunt, and brakes. If you are thinking of adding some to your motor, just make sure the polarity is aligned. I placed them on both the top and bottom of the motor plates.

        Unlike the “Challenger” motor in you car Bill, the motor in this car is the “Super Challenger” which has a more typical cylindrical comm., not a flat “pancake” comm.

        While I know that you like to keep your vintage cars stock, you can certainly help these old K&B’s to perform better.

        The first thing to do, is to bore out the sloppy molded in axle bushings, and replace them with 3/16 x 1/8th oilites…….this will improve handling, gear mesh and top speed.

        My motor also had the comm trued, arm balanced, new motor brushes/springs, and one of the “hop up” gear sets offered by K&B.

         

        Cheers

        Chris Walker

        Here is a before and after shot of the added oilites.

         

    • #17570
      f1nutzf1nutz
      Moderator

      GI I’m planning on going with an appropriately raised chassis otherwise what’s the point? Ideally I’d like to see these drag raced rather than ‘lapped’ … maybe one day. I have an Ho drag strip, not the auto world one and it is fun. We run it for fun sometimes after our regular Ho race nights since it doesn’t take too long to run a bunch of brackets.

    • #17571
      KenKen
      Moderator

      Gary. The description for the gassers says they are expected to sit up high.

      Bill. I have a 35-foot straight line in my basement. It’s only 20.6 feet for 1/32 – 1/8th mile drag racing. That leaves 14-feet for dynamic braking, and a feather/pillow cushion stop. It would not take much for me to make a drag strip. A timing system is already available. We would be one of the first clubs to have BWMS050 drag-racing.

      Even though I may be new at this myself. How can I help you build your car?

    • #17572
      f1nutzf1nutz
      Moderator

      Sounds like a plan. I don’t think you would need 14 feet if the run off rails are isolated and shorted. I halved my runoff distance that way on the Ho track. Worst part is walking down to get the cars back but some use a return lane.

    • #17573
      KenKen
      Moderator

      Hi Bill. Extra run-off space won’t hurt anything since it’s already there. I could use the walking exercise. I’m thinking three 12′ foot lengths of routed track that gets laid down once every month or two. The idea has merit.

      Even though I may be new at this myself. How can I help you build your car?

    • #17575
      f1nutzf1nutz
      Moderator

      How about this bad boy?

       

    • #17576
      f1nutzf1nutz
      Moderator

      This could also be interesting…


      hahaha

    • #17577
      KenKen
      Moderator

      Wow! Both are great scratch build kits.

      Even though I may be new at this myself. How can I help you build your car?

    • #17695
      f1nutzf1nutz
      Moderator

      Thanks for the tips Chris. I’ve heard that the K&B motor magnets lose their force if you disassemble them from the metal flux pieces which would require rezapping them after reassembly, so I’ve been reluctant to do so. Is that the case in your experience?

      Any that I have found already disassembled would confirm this but I have no specific before and after proof.

    • #17698
      AvatarChris Walker
      Member

      Thanks for the tips Chris. I’ve heard that the K&B motor magnets lose their force if you disassemble them from the metal flux pieces which would require rezapping them after reassembly, so I’ve been reluctant to do so. Is that the case in your experience? Any that I have found already disassembled would confirm this but I have no specific before and after proof.

       

      Hi Bill, I do not have a gauss meter, so I do not personally have an accurate answer on how much magnet strength is lost when removing these old ferrous block magnets……..I have heard from some fairly reliable/knowledgeable  sources that it may be as much as 25%…….I will take their word.

      Luckily, I do have access to a “zapper”, so I do give them a quick jolt before replacing them.

       

      Cheers

      Chris Walker

      PS I am sure that you know that you can buy some “neo” magnets for the older “train” type Scaley etc. motors.

      They do seem to help, but, on a plastic track, they give too much magnetic downforce for my liking.

    • #17699
      f1nutzf1nutz
      Moderator

      Thanks for the info Chris. I didn’t know they made neos for old scaleys seems like overkill to me. I like them as they are personally.

      cheers

      Bill

    • #17702
      KenKen
      Moderator

      The 75k Binford-2000 slot car motor. Available at your local hobby shop. :yahoo:

      Even though I may be new at this myself. How can I help you build your car?

    • #17731
      f1nutzf1nutz
      Moderator

      Anyone guess where I’m headed with this?

    • #17732
      f1nutzf1nutz
      Moderator

      Maybe it clearer after the mask reveal…

    • #17733
      f1nutzf1nutz
      Moderator

      This might help jog your memory…Hemmmmm…let me think

    • #17734
      f1nutzf1nutz
      Moderator

      Ok ok you guys are a little slow on the uptake today so here goes, last hint.

    • #17735
      GI
      Member

      One of the famous Wheelstanders of the day, Hurst Hemi Under Glass.  Looking forward to this build.

      Now you will have to have a miniature Linda Vaughn beside the car.

      • This reply was modified 2 months, 1 week ago by GI.
    • #17737
      f1nutzf1nutz
      Moderator

      Haha thanks! Maybe I can put my sculpting skills to work and make a Linda Vaughn figure ;)

      Have to build the car first ;)

    • #17738
      KenKen
      Moderator

      Sharp looking car!

      I didn’t have time to respond.

      Good luck making Linda. You may need to run to the store to get more resin. She was a bit top heavy if I remember correctly. :-)

      Even though I may be new at this myself. How can I help you build your car?

    • #17741
      f1nutzf1nutz
      Moderator

      Decals on! Just some small paint touch ups and off to clear coat.Starting to look like a drag car!

      • #17768
        ArtArt
        Super Moderator

        Looks great F1nutz!

        Let's Get Building!
        From Prince - "Life is a party and parties aren't meant to last"...

    • #17742
      f1nutzf1nutz
      Moderator

      Here’s a more natural stance.

    • #17749
      JMSracerJMSracer
      Moderator

      This is looking good. I assume you have the front and rear windshield otherwise you will have to perfect your glassblowing skills for the curves in the rear. Did you print your own decals or is this one of your projects that’s been siting in a box for the last 10 or 20 years waiting for its time?

      Is this going to be an actual class?  and if it is, are we running laps or just a drag race down the straight?

    • #17751
      f1nutzf1nutz
      Moderator

      <p style=”text-align: left;”>Thanks Jim yes I have the rest of the kit so no worries re: windows. It had been buried in a closet for the last 10 years. I did print the decals for the main logo but most of the contingency decals came from various other kits’ leftovers since my printed decals are not as sharp as I would prefer them. I have wanted to build this subject for a long time but never really got to it. The next event posted has a couple of dragster classes including a ‘gasser’ class. My understanding is that it will be a circuit race but drag racing is an intriguing idea as well. Regardless this gives me an excuse to finally build the car in this outstanding (upstanding?) and famous livery. Thanks again.</p>
      Bill

    • #17755
      KenKen
      Moderator

      Bill. That’s a fantastic looking Barracuda!

      The original car.

       

      • This reply was modified 2 months, 1 week ago by KenKen.
      • This reply was modified 2 months, 1 week ago by KenKen.

      Even though I may be new at this myself. How can I help you build your car?

    • #17758
      GI
      Member

      Looks like Bob Riggle needs to retake his drivers test.

    • #17759
      KenKen
      Moderator

      He’s had 2-accidents in 50-years of professional driving. I think he’s doing great for his age.

      It looks as if he took the wheelie a bit too far for camera’s sake and and simply ran out of space to make the turn around. Drag-race cars don’t corner well at all.

      I was going to say we’ll all find out shortly. But then realized, I’m not driving. ;-)

      Even though I may be new at this myself. How can I help you build your car?

    • #17766
      JMSracerJMSracer
      Moderator

      Definitely one of the more action packed Jay Leno Garage clips.  This may be a preview of things to come racing these models around a track instead of just drag racing them down a straight line.  I think we need to consult our resident drag race expert Mr. J Guts.  He may have some valuable bits of information that he can share with us having raced 1/32 dragsters with 100k+ motors for many years.

      F1nuts, I think the value of your Barracuda just shot up, since the original was complete destroyed and needs to be rebuilt, while yours will be an original.  Funny, the only two things that remained intact and unscathed were the Hemi and the glass.  Bob might be the only 80 year old that can get it up but he may has lost his ability to control it ;-).   I think Jay got an earful from Mavis after this event.

    • #17767
      f1nutzf1nutz
      Moderator

      Yes that is painful to watch. Also the later version of the car. That was a dumb place to film the clip. Clearly not enough room to slow down properly before turning. Hopefully mine will corner slightly better. We’ll see.

    • #17769
      Porsche911Porsche911
      Member

      Very Impressive Bill!! I remember building that model when I was a wee lad… They could have used this Model’s ‘ballast’ to control the wheelie…

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    • #17771
      Porsche911Porsche911
      Member

      Miss “Golden Shifter”(I said Pardon!) herself. :yahoo:

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