Scratch Built Chassis – The Happy Canadian Scale Modeler

Viewing 4 topics - 1 through 4 (of 4 total)

- Topic
- Voices
- Replies
- Last Post
- D'Art Porsche RS61 We recently had a workshop where 3-bodies were painted as part of the demonstration. With the Player's 200 coming up. The RS61 fits in perfectly with the field of cars. My livery might be fantasy. But the colour is not. Art. Thank you very kindly. It was a lot of fun to build a chassis for this body kit. :yes: I still need to complete the body and details. But it's ready to run so to speak. :good: The class is SP+.
  Started by: Ken in: Scratch Built Models
- 4
- 11
- 4 years ago
  Ken
- 1949 Ford Tudor in red With the Carrera Panamericana around the corner. It's time to give Fred and his blue Tudor a bit of a break. Emilio Portez Medina and Armando Rodrigues Morado, both from Mexico, are busy preparing a red 1949 Ford Tudor #119 for the next race (1950). Emilio's red Tudor has a BWNC1. Fred's blue Tudor has a BWMS050.
  Started by: Ken in: Scratch Built Models
- 3
- 7
- 4 years ago
  Ken
- Maserati 250F (Scalex body) There is a Shelby #5 car in the database already. So in an attempt to be different, I grabbed a can of Tamiya Coral Blue not knowing how the car would look. Without the details, it looks a bit scary. Over the top blue. The rest of the car made all the difference. Art's suggestion of white roundels really made the numbers and colour pop.
  Started by: Ken in: Scratch Built Models
- 3
- 4
- 4 years ago
  Ken
- Ferrari 330 P4 No. 21 Ferrari 330 P4 Number 21 I've been asked to post a few photos of this model's body/chassis. The body is a modified Scalextric clam shell with modified interior and scratch built wire / brass chassis in a sidewinder configuration. The motor is a Piranha, gears are slot.it, rear bushings Parma, wheels are BWA, inserts & tires are DArt. To the best of my recollection the guide is a leftover Fly or Slotter. This is a very smooth runner - perhaps a bit more motor is in it's future. The modified interior with four body posts - nylon spacers glued in place - with flat black paint added. The bottom of the interior tray was raised slightly. Although the pilot's body was kept, I had to replace the pilot's head with a DArt period one - even though it is hard to see through the window... Ample clearance throughout the length of the chassis. I used a snap in guide from my spares bin plus whatever wire came with the Piranha motor. If you are buying parts always get the best - never anything like this guide - but I like to recycle whenever I can... the front 1/8" axle sleeve isn't even centred on this build - notice the extra brass washers on one side... not flattering photographs but that's what this is - this chassis was never intended to be a showpiece - I had to laugh after I opened it up yesterday to take these pictures... also note the brass tube used to lock the hinge pins in place. The motor is held in place with a fabricated motor bracket and 2mm motor mount screws. Hard to see here but the bottom of the endbell side of the motor fits very tightly within the piano wire chassis - basically snapping into place. No other bracing is used - but should I replace the motor with a 25k S-can then I would prepare to solder to the chassis to lock the motor in on the endbell side. But as I said - not needed for this application. Some interesting wear on the right rear tire... looks like the rears need to be re-profiled again which will give more grip. Lots of re-enforcement at the back. The motor rests against the rear piano wire assembly at the top. Axles with high iron content will be attracted to the magnet in the motor - never bothered to worry about that. You can see from the top that the motor is offset slightly. I never added weight to counter any imbalance - the model corners just as well in either direction. The bottom of the chassis - you can see how tightly the motor is located within the chassis base. The hinged brass body base floats atop the chassis. The wire 'pins' that hold the body plate/pan in place can be removed using tweezers and prying them out of the centre tube located just behind the guide. It never hurts to take full advantage of all of the properties of each material or component you are using - in this case the flexibility of the wire (just as in a torsion chassis too). Looks like it will be time to change that braid... I suspect it was the braid that was already in that guide... when I put this model together... Cleaned and back together again and ready to go once more! I'll leave profiling to the tires to another time. BTW, A shout out to Frank who gave me this setup block! It works better for photographs than the aluminium SCC block I usually use.
  Started by: Arthur in: Scratch Built Models
- 3
- 2
- 5 years ago
  Ken